Painting Cylinders, etching primer?

[RustiePyles]

Has any one found or used a high temp self-etching primer on aluminum engine parts? Im getting ready to paint my cylinder black (ala Triumph cast iron cylinders) and am wondering if I need to use any kind of etching primer first? My success with painting aluminum engine parts in the past has been inconsistent at best. I'm using VHT semi-gloss black and will be oven (smoker) curing it at 200℉ (93℃) for 20-30 minutes.

 

[WideAWAKE]

https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-high-temp-engine-primer-gray.html

The best products you’ll ever find in a can to paint with.

they also have a fantastic high temp paint

 

[Jim]

Real etch primers are finicky. I say real because I'm of the opinion that etch primers in rattle cans are mostly just a marketing ploy.
A true etch primer uses an acid to etch the metal. That acid then needs to be neutralized... before the primer dries and traps the acid inside it. This is done by strict climate control. It requires an elevated humidity content in the air along with an elevated temperature to "bake" the moisture out once it's done it's job of neutralizing the acid. This is all an exacting science that's been perfected over the last 40 yrs or so.
Ever read any of that on a etch primer rattle can? No, me neither. Madison Ave hype more than anything. I'm sure there's a "whiff" of acid in the mix... just so they can make the etching claim, but I doubt there's enough in there to do any good.... or harm for that matter.
I just use Rustolium bare metal primer for high temp applications. And I'm sold on the VHT cans. Been using it for several yrs now. It's become my go to.

 

[jetmechmarty]

And I'm sold on the VHT cans. Been using it for several yrs now. It's become my go to.

If I said I was going to paint my frame with it, you'd go along with that?

 

[RustiePyles]

I just use Rustolium bare metal primer for high temp applications. And I'm sold on the VHT cans. Been using it for several yrs now. It's become my go to.

Just regular Rust-oleum bare metal primer or is a high heat? I've had really good luck with VHT as well, just not with all bare aluminum applications. I have several cans of Rust-oleum primer already.

 

[RustiePyles]

If I said I was going to paint my frame with it, you'd go along with that?

I like Van Sickle implement paint for frames

 

[jetmechmarty]

I like Van Sickle implement paint for frames

VHT, I can drive ten minutes, and walk into a store and buy it. There is something to be said for that. That is, unless some of you who know better tell me that it's crap.

 

[RustiePyles]

VHT, I can drive ten minutes, and walk into a store and buy it. There is something to be said for that. That is, unless some of you who know better tell me that it's crap.

Yeah I think the Van Sickle stuff is mainly sold by a chain here in the Midwest (Orscheln's) where as VHT is sold pretty much everywhere auto parts are sold. I've painted LOADS of stuff with VHT and never had a problem with it so I don't see any reason you couldn't paint a frame with it.

 

[Jim]

If I said I was going to paint my frame with it, you'd go along with that?

Absolutely.

Just regular Rust-oleum bare metal primer or is a high heat?

Just the plain. Make sure it's not the fill and sand primer.... just a bare metal primer. And just a light coat... enough to barely cover.

Use the can on the right.

 

[RustiePyles]

Absolutely.


Just the plain. Make sure it's not the fill and sand primer.... just a bare metal primer. And just a light coat... enough to barely cover.

Use the can on the right.

View attachment 192582

Yep thats what I have.

 

[Max Midnight]

I have used the VHT semi gloss on an XS1100 block to good effect.
Like any paint job the preparation is what will determine the end result and in particular all traces of oil or grease are removed.

One thing Mr Impatient discovered with the 1100 having cured it in the oven is that the liners will come out if it is still too hot. Should have let it cool a bit more but fortunately they went back OK; something to bear in mind.

 

[RustiePyles]

I have used the VHT semi gloss on an XS1100 block to good effect.
Like any paint job the preparation is what will determine the end result and in particular all traces of oil or grease are removed.

One thing Mr Impatient discovered with the 1100 having cured it in the oven is that the liners will come out if it is still too hot. Should have let it cool a bit more but fortunately they went back OK; something to bear in mind.

yeah I'll block it up from the bottom with a pair of 1,2,3 blocks and put a heavy bar across the tops of the liners.

 

[Jim]

yeah I'll block it up from the bottom with a pair of 1,2,3 blocks and put a heavy bar across the tops of the liners.

They'll likely still creep up a bit as they cool. At least they have every time I've done it. A wood block and a ball peen set's 'em back down nicely.

 

[RustiePyles]

Hmmm, maybe a piece of 1/4" plate across the top with a couple of pieces of all-thread ran through the stud holes... I was going to use a 15LB 12"L piece of 2x2" solid bar across the top.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Hmmm, maybe a piece of 1/4" plate across the top with a couple of pieces of all-thread ran through the stud holes... I was going to use a 15LB 12"L piece of 2x2" solid bar across the top.

I put my freshly painted jugs in the oven upside down. No problem. Maybe I didn't get them hot enough. I used the recommended temperature on the paint can.

 

[Jim]

Hmmm, maybe a piece of 1/4" plate across the top with a couple of pieces of all-thread ran through the stud holes... I was going to use a 15LB 12"L piece of 2x2" solid bar across the top.

There's a Service Bulletin on sleeves. It calls for 20 - 30 lbs per sleeve.

 

[RustiePyles]

There's a Service Bulletin on sleeves. It calls for 20 - 30 lbs per sleeve.


View attachment 192587

Easy, I'm pretty sure I've got two pieces of 2x2". I think they're somewhere in the 15LB per foot range.

 

[Jim]

You painting this cylinder head too?

 

[RustiePyles]

You painting this cylinder head too?

No, the current plan it to get all the paint off of it. Top case half will be repainted "aluminum", cylinder will be semi gloss black and everything else will be bare. like this (pic borrowed from @resto )

 

[RC4MAN]

Tried an etching primer on my V-Rod wheels several years ago. Didn't take, every time the wheel got bumped there was a chip in the paint to base metal. Need to strip them but took the chicken shit way out and got a second set of wheels. The bearings need replacing in the front one and I haven't been able to get it out.
It laughs at my slide hammer ID race puller. Going to have to use heat.
As bakeable paints go though I've been happy with the VHT Engine Enamel even without primer. Smells up the kitchen a bit but once done it's as durable as powder coat.
You need to look at the temp ratings of the paint first though, can't be any higher than 500°
I tried some 1200° stuff once on some steel parts, in the oven at my typical 400° and the stuff came out as soft and chalky as when first applied. Had to strip and use the lower temp stuff