Exhaust repair - think it'll work?

Downeaster

Downeaster

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The exhaust on the CX is more-or-less mechanically sound, but the chrome is nasty.

I did the SOS/Oven Cleaner thing and it cleaned it up a lot, but in some places (10-15% of the surface) the rust has eaten entirely through the chrome plating, leaving pits down to the base metal. Also, on both mufflers, there are two spots where the inner baffle appears to have been spot or plug welded to the outer skin and those have rusted nearly all the way through and bubbled the chrome in an area about the size of a dime. The head pipes aren't horrible, just some speckling. I've treated everything with rust converter.

New mufflers aren't in the budget at the moment (Jeebus, they've gotten expensive!) so I've come up with a plan to make them a bit less ugly cosmetically.

Step One is to plug the major divots at the welds with Hi Temp JB Weld and sand them back to the outer contour. The JB product is advertised as being safe to 2400° so that shouldn't be a problem.

Step Two is to scuff things up with a ScotchBrite pad and paint the mufflers with VHT Gloss Black. Again, if you can believe the advertising, it should handle the temps okay.

I think the head pipes will be okay as is with a little buffing. Not sure I'd trust paint on them and I'm not a fan of the wrapped pipe look.

Comments/Suggestions/Experience welcomed. (Along with the usual rift of shat...:laugh2: )
 
Are you going to sand it down to bare metal? Or is there a way to neutralize the rust that will take the paint?
My XJ650 has rusty header pipes just in front of the engine but the muffs are good. I Have debated wraping them.
 
Downeaster said:
The exhaust on the CX is more-or-less mechanically sound, but the chrome is nasty.

I did the SOS/Oven Cleaner thing and it cleaned it up a lot, but in some places (10-15% of the surface) the rust has eaten entirely through the chrome plating, leaving pits down to the base metal. Also, on both mufflers, there are two spots where the inner baffle appears to have been spot or plug welded to the outer skin and those have rusted nearly all the way through and bubbled the chrome in an area about the size of a dime. The head pipes aren't horrible, just some speckling. I've treated everything with rust converter.

New mufflers aren't in the budget at the moment (Jeebus, they've gotten expensive!) so I've come up with a plan to make them a bit less ugly cosmetically.

Step One is to plug the major divots at the welds with Hi Temp JB Weld and sand them back to the outer contour. The JB product is advertised as being safe to 2400° so that shouldn't be a problem.

Step Two is to scuff things up with a ScotchBrite pad and paint the mufflers with VHT Gloss Black. Again, if you can believe the advertising, it should handle the temps okay.

I think the head pipes will be okay as is with a little buffing. Not sure I'd trust paint on them and I'm not a fan of the wrapped pipe look.

Comments/Suggestions/Experience welcomed. (Along with the usual rift of shat...:laugh2: )
Click to expand...

I shot the single wall exhaust on my knockoff with Eastwood header paint.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-factory...ickedid=629947574119&wickedsource=google&wv=4

Didn’t have any issues.

IMG_7498.jpeg


I believe they make it in a few different colors.

I used factory grey. Had a slight metallic to it.

Looked clean for what it was.
 
Been on y mind of late as well. Have to repair the GS's muffler when i get back to NZ. Cut out around the rust area's. Thinking along the lines of, soaking the muffler in water, letting it drain off and dry a little spraying rust converter as best to cover the rust. Let dry and spray Heat, HRT, paint to try to cover the converted rust. Cover the holes with an Alloy plate, JB weld on and pop-rivit.

It is only going to be a stopgap measure for this years trip to NZ. If by chance it holds for a another year or 2, bonus. Rust may be to far gone but only need to patch to get a roadworthy this year..............:shrug:
2 crop thumbnail_image8a.jpg
2 crop thumbnail_image8c b.jpg



Stove Bright High Temperature Paint is the industry’s premier high temperature paint. It is formulated with a unique blend of heat resistant pigments in a silicone polymer resin that provides excellent colour retention and film integrity in working temperatures up to 650°C (1200°F).

Untitled-design-2.jpg
 
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I was discussing options with a painter regarding a rusted chrome rim, his comment was paint never really sticks to chrome . His advice was to strip it before painting. I realise stripping is not really an option for you but this info may moderate your expectations.

Wideawake that is a nice looking bike I would be proud if I owned it.
 
WideAWAKE said:
I shot the single wall exhaust on my knockoff with Eastwood header paint.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-factory...ickedid=629947574119&wickedsource=google&wv=4

Didn’t have any issues.

View attachment 257151

I believe they make it in a few different colors.

I used factory grey. Had a slight metallic to it.

Looked clean for what it was.
Click to expand...

hovel said:
Looks great ! The pipes compliment the rest of the bike. I have a very good idea how wonderful it sounds. Nice job.
Click to expand...
Where did the pipes come from?
 
Downeaster said:
@WideAWAKE - I already sprung for a can of VHT, but if that fails I'll look at the Eastwood version.

@Signal - Not sure how I'll prep what's left of the chrome but appreciate the tip.

@Melnic - The phosphoric acid rust converter advertises as being ready to paint once it's done reacting with the rust.
Click to expand...
Im a big fan of that VHT...its good stuff. I do however, recommend you use their VHT primer with it first to give the topcoat some bite. Also let the paint heat soak and cool a couple of times before putting it into full time use.
 
Vincenthdfan said:
Im a big fan of that VHT...its good stuff. I do however, recommend you use their VHT primer with it first to give the topcoat some bite. Also let the paint heat soak and cool a couple of times before putting it into full time use.
Click to expand...
I wondered about that. Thanks for the tip!
 
Downeaster said:
The exhaust on the CX is more-or-less mechanically sound, but the chrome is nasty.

I did the SOS/Oven Cleaner thing and it cleaned it up a lot, but in some places (10-15% of the surface) the rust has eaten entirely through the chrome plating, leaving pits down to the base metal. Also, on both mufflers, there are two spots where the inner baffle appears to have been spot or plug welded to the outer skin and those have rusted nearly all the way through and bubbled the chrome in an area about the size of a dime. The head pipes aren't horrible, just some speckling. I've treated everything with rust converter.

New mufflers aren't in the budget at the moment (Jeebus, they've gotten expensive!) so I've come up with a plan to make them a bit less ugly cosmetically.

Step One is to plug the major divots at the welds with Hi Temp JB Weld and sand them back to the outer contour. The JB product is advertised as being safe to 2400° so that shouldn't be a problem.

Step Two is to scuff things up with a ScotchBrite pad and paint the mufflers with VHT Gloss Black. Again, if you can believe the advertising, it should handle the temps okay.

I think the head pipes will be okay as is with a little buffing. Not sure I'd trust paint on them and I'm not a fan of the wrapped pipe look.

Comments/Suggestions/Experience welcomed. (Along with the usual rift of shat...:laugh2: )
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan. That's pretty much what I was planning, but was fortunate mine cleaned up better than expected. I REALLY didn't want to do the wraps.
 
I did the wrap on my headpipes because they were dented and scratched up and I didn’t want to buy new ones, but you need to remember to wear gloves or you get fiberglass in your hands which sucks since I’ve grabbed them a few times without doing that.IMG_6701.jpeg
 
Wingedwheel said:
I did the wrap on my headpipes because they were dented and scratched up and I didn’t want to buy new ones, but you need to remember to wear gloves or you get fiberglass in your hands which sucks since I’ve grabbed them a few times without doing that.View attachment 263899
Click to expand...
Yours looks better than most -- less like a cast on a broken bone. :D
 
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