Finally had a bad build day

[Q Tip]

Well everything was going so smoothly I knew I was gonna kill it soon. Friday afternoon was Destruct Day. You guys may remember that I sprained my ankle on the kicker last week, so I had a long week of hobbling around at work and being bummed. Thankfully the ankle is on the mend now.

Well I had the clutch cover off to replace the starter gear/springs (after trying the spring stretch with no improvement) and as I had the idea that my timing was radically advanced from the vicious kickback (it was), I was turning the motor from the generator nut...and my kickstart worked loose.

No problem after a thorough perusal of the site and my manual I was ready to set that sucker back in place...only I put too much tension on the kicker clock spring. I eased the kickstart lever down after I had everything buttoned up and heard that CRAAAAACCK. OMG says I, hope that was just the spring seating down on the perch....well it seated and then some...broke my spring perch right off clean with the case. Major Bummage.

Sat morning bright and early i hotfoot it over to lows and get a drill and tap for a 1/4-20 bolt and a grade 8 socket head bolt....thanks to THIS SITE and the repair for JUST THIS STUPID PET TRICK, I was able to fix that thing. Plus my mad machining skills.
Don't tell anyone my metric bike has a standard part.

Feeling renewed, I proceeded to install my nifty MikesXS stainless brake lines. Let me tell you, I am at a loss with these things. The ends rotate for adjustment just as advertised...but once I get a little pressure on the line, BRAKE FLUID is SPEWING all over my awesome rattle can PAINT. Like I needed it to look any worse. So I am going to throw those lines in the woods. Doesn't seem to make any difference how tight they are and i did indeed use the copper washers.

Can someone recommend some better brake lines? At this point I don't care if they are rubber or stainless or bamboo, as long as they retain the brake fluid and the bike stops.

To top it all, my bike has gone from hard to start (kick) to WILL NOT start (kick and electric...new starter gear is maybe one bump better than the ruined one). I have checked the timing as best I can without the bike running and it seems to be correct.
Cam chain spot on, timing looks great, valves set perfectly, plugs cleaned and gapped.
Carbs (VM) cleaned.

All I can get from the bike after a dozen kicks or so is one or two putts.

So I am letting her sit until i get some for real brake lines.

Q Tip out.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I don't think you should blame Mikesxs braided steel lines. I just put on those same lines and they work just fine. I used 10 ft-lbs torque and no leaks.

 

[xjwmx]

I used the two piece Mike's SS lines and I had a similar problem with one of them. Once you get it so tight it distorts and after that no amount of tightening will stop it leaking. I tightened it till I broke it off and it wouldn't stop leaking.

Mike's sent me a free replacement and I was more careful with it. Didn't tighten it as much, and it did ok. The banjos are aluminum, which freaks me out, and the threads look shallow and weak and Chinesey but so far so good. I'll eventually replace them though, just cause of the aluminum. Plus the clear vinyl is cracking now.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I think this is a case where less is more.

I couldn't find a torque setting for the banjo bolts. Since the banjo ends were aluminum and not steel as in the OEM hoses, I decided it was best to only use minimum torque. I tried 10 ft-lbs and it sealed OK. The copper washers make the seal, so excessive torque only works against you.

Also with a steel bolt into the aluminum caliper, you want to go easy on the torque.

A torque wrench is your friend................without one, problems can occur.

 

[xjwmx]

Being aluminum, they didn't feel tight before they started splintering. LOL. I could tell the banjo was going to crush, so I didn't over tighten those. I was leaking from the connection from the hose to the banjo. I didn't see any point using a torque wrench, because I had no setting to go on. I think the thing to do is start loose, and tighten it until it just stops leaking, then drop the tools and slowly back away...

 

[Travis]

Wow shitty deal with all of that..

For lines, I've had great luck with http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/custom_lines.html

Just give them a call and tell them how long you need and what bends you want on the bangos. A line will probably cost you 50-60 bucks, but you'll get a nice Galfer line that you won't have any problems with.

 

[Q Tip]

gracias all. Those brake lines might be good for others but I guess I ruined mine trying to put them on as tight as OEM. No biggie. I just would not feel comfortable running them. I'm not down on Mike's I get a lot of gear from him that is good quality and will continue to. I've got my old original lines that still work fine I'll just put them back on till I can swing some Galfer lines.

 

[ann0yed]

"So I am going to throw those lines in the woods."

Ha!