Frame prep before paint

xlr8tn

XS650 Enthusiast
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About ready to send my frame off for blasting and powder coat. Before doing so, I had a couple of questions for those that have been there and done that. I was planning to have the frame media blasted and then pick up to fine tune any areas with bondo. I wanted to fix some areas on the inside of the frame that has some pitting. Will a paint shop do this for me or should I address. For areas that a grinder has sort of penciled the metal, how should I smooth this out? Tried to get as smooth as possible but it could probably use a touch up. Should I take care of closing any opening like the swing arm to protect bearings? Or will they tape up accordingly? For the inside of my tank, can this be blasted or am I asking for trouble? Getting close! Anyone know what the stock frame colors are?

Brent
 
also, you need to block off anywhere you don't want the powder. They just shoot it. Not everyone digs these bikes like we do. although they are missing out if they don't.
Powder wont stick to bondo. powder is statically stuck to the metal then heated, then cured. Someone here had success using jbweld that had metal grit in it. Maybe he will say hi.
 
they do make a conductive type putty that will powder coat (aluminum based i believe) ....i have heard of it shrinking some when it is heated tho. Im sure pin holes are fine tho . Never experienced first hand
 
You need to be sure bolt holes and bearing surfaces are masked. Seen plenty of hard work undoing too thick powder coat that was keeping reassembly from happening. There's a set of wheels in classifieds right now that IMHO are scrap, the rotor and sprocket mounting surfaces were powder coated. I spent about 4 hours and had to design some cutting tools to clean up a powder coated rear hub, never again LOL.
 
I have done a bunch of frames and you really need to add bolts where there are treads and bondo is a no no. Masking doesn't work all the time because of the oven and heat. The glue from tape can run. Also go over frame to make sure there is NO OIL or GREASE anywhere. I have had some good powder coaters and some bad. You get what you pay for.
 
My powder coater uses a metal putty to fill areas. coaters use a high heat tape and plugs for holes. My coater and I go over every piece that I deliver to him. I show him what needs to be taped or plugged.
 
You have a good guy there. I have to do most of the work myself or it just get done over top. I had a guy here in NJ that said no need to remove anything they would rather do it and it had neck bearings in frame and my partner listened to guy. Do you know how hard it is to remove powder coating after its done. Well my partner did all the grease ran down the tubes and destroyed the coating. Time to find another powder coater ....HAHA
 
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