fuel won't flow down into bowls?

[emzdogz]

This is very weird.

My gas tank, which is one of the real smal old Hap Jones/Wassel types, has manual petcocks on each side. I have brand new fuel line. With no fuel line on, gas would come right out of the taps when opened up. However, when I put the fuel line on (clear, so I can see) it's like there was vacuum, and the gas wouldn't begin to flow til I "primed" it by quickly putting the fuel line off and back on. Then it flowed freely into lines. Lines look nice and clean - no crap in fuel.

On my recently cleaned BS34's I switched the black line which attaches the T at the carbs to clear also. So I can see that fuel is flowing down as far as the T - and yet.... the bowls are dry. Well at least nothing dribbles out when I open the drain plugs.

I know from when I cleaned the carbs before, that the T going into carbs was not plugged or blocked. Blew air and carb cleaner through there just fine.

Makes me wonder if there's still some kind of vacuum issue that's preventing fuel from wanting to flow in.

Anybody ever heard of this? I searched a bunch of the threads here and no fuel to float bowls never seems to be an issue. Usually people can't get fuel to stop flowing to bowls!



I guess I'll pull 'em again!

Connecting my 2 petcocks is a T fitting I got at the auto parts store. Would rather have a Y fitting. You think that would make a difference?

thanks!

 

[5twins]

My buddy has a "Y" fitting on his 34s hooked to a 2 petcock tank and it's a royal pain to route the lines - not enough space down there. I think you're better off with the "T".

Drop a float bowl with the carbs still in place (use a stubby screwdriver). Check that gas comes out the float needle and seat when you lower the float with your finger. With the bowl off and the float dropped down completely, gas should just pour out when you turn the petcock on. Maybe your floats are installed or set wrong. The parts diagrams for the BS34s are actually wrong and show the floats mounted upside down .....

 

[emzdogz]

bizarre about the parts diagram! thanks for that info. I've got them off now and am gonna take a look.

 

[emzdogz]

Wish I could have changed the title of my previous fuel won't flow thread.... but anyway, a dang MUD DAUBER had clogged the T!!!!!! just very slightly right at the opening. Blew right out from inside the carb, with bowl off.

Put the carbs back on and now the fuel flows freely. Yay!!!!!!!

and, just for sh_ts and giggles, I keyed on and choke on and kicked her over. After a few times - it fired! and once or twice it seemed like it wanted to stay running.

What's concerning me more though, and why I don't just keep kicking, is that now, it's kicking back - HARD. I know the drill for kicking these through and even when kicked through "appropriately", it's just giving me a real hard kick back. So I'm gonna go ahead and connect the electric foot and see if I get any joy that way.

Now I'm off to read "fires but won't run" threads.

BTW, it sounds freakin' fantastic....deep and beautiful - a nice rumble with these drags. (although I have baffles on order)

 

[retiredgentleman]

Just keep at it Em, you'll have it running in no time. Looks like those pesky insects are out to get you. There's hardly any insects up here in Calgary................too cold and too dry.............ummmmmmm, makes you wonder how us people survive

 

[BigJimmyW13]

Less bacteria and more offspring, duh.

 

[XSLeo]

Often on the initial start up not everything is exactly right. Your timing and carbs might be off a bit.
Too advanced timing can make it kick back.
The electric leg don't get tired. It makes those first few easier on you. Once you get it running and the timing and carbs fine tuned it will kick easier.
Leo

 

[emzdogz]

re: timing....with an elec ignition bike, there's really nothing I can do about the timing though, right? But maybe as it runs it will straighten up and fly right - that's what I hope.

Also I have some baffles on order, need to install those, plus the starter button.
Thinking I will go ahead and check the valves too, very soon.
So there's still stuff to do before I really have any right to expect it to run very well.

I have a huge bruise on my leg from the kicker....

I really appreciate all the input here on the forum.

 

[WacoBrian]

dang emz i just sold my last starter botton, yeah set those valves

 

[WacoBrian]

Emmer :
1. a species of wheat
2. person who is lovely and fabulous- though not nearly as fabulous as joel (like thats even possible)
Emmer is the unique pronunciation of the name of a unique person.
"Emmer is a reall kool gal"

cool

 

[emzdogz]

good morning WacoBrian. I have a button ready to go. Going to try it wired without a relay/solenoid. It is a big heavy duty button. Got to figure out where to mount it though.

It's a drag though, this week we are supposed to be having pretty much afternoon rain. yesterday, both my carports flooded. Hope it dries out one afternoon so I can work on it.

 

[emzdogz]

Emmer :
1. a species of wheat
2. person who is lovely and fabulous- though not nearly as fabulous as joel (like thats even possible)
Emmer is the unique pronunciation of the name of a unique person.
"Emmer is a reall kool gal"

cool

lol! have you been visiting the "urban dictionary"?

 

[WacoBrian]

lol! have you been visiting the "urban dictionary"?
yes i have 1st timer

need a relay/solenoid?

 

[emzdogz]

I still have my stock solenoid. Rather just not use it if I don't have to though, since the starter button will be back in the area (somewhere) between battery and starter. I just need to connect a wire from battery to one post on starter button, and the starter motor wire to the other, and then I guess when the button gets pushed, it makes the connection. Hoping that's all it takes!

 

[WacoBrian]

sounds like that should do it put a fuse in it