-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Gotta love carb problems that are electrical
- Thread starter Bonsai
- Start date
-
- Tags
- electrical
jonandjones
XS650 Enthusiast
What's that...
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
That's good hope to see em higher next post.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Yes, re-adjust the valves and check the compression again. Make sure you kick the engine over a few times until the gauge needle stops rising to get an accurate test.
Rising would be a "gift" - reading was more like a twitch.
This is the side that read 008 the other day. First time I've ever done this and there was a lot of playing involved so it could have slipped tight when I tightened up the lock nut.
This is the side that read 008 the other day. First time I've ever done this and there was a lot of playing involved so it could have slipped tight when I tightened up the lock nut.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Your valves close by spring tension automatically. So as long as the tappets are not holding them open the valves would only effect the compression test if they are not seating completely. If you can fit a feeler gauge when the piston is at TDC compression stroke, then the valve lash is not causing it. You can also just loosen then way out and test compression. This would take the lash out of the variable.
There are seveal variables that could cause a loss of compression. Like a build up of carbon or a holed piston.
There are seveal variables that could cause a loss of compression. Like a build up of carbon or a holed piston.
So.... valve clearance was way off agian so I reset that hoping but of course "0"... Put some oil in the plug hole.... "0"
Hooked up my compressor to the guage line and it blew out the carb- so is that bad intake valve seat?
Hooked up my compressor to the guage line and it blew out the carb- so is that bad intake valve seat?
No reason this won't work on an intake valve, sure worth a try!!
This may make interesting reading.
The meatball mechanic
This may make interesting reading.
The meatball mechanic
heheheheh that's where I got my diagnosis from- I ain't that good! ;^)
I'm not clear on what the guts look like- am I just cleaning the chamber as far down as can?
Google just saved my arse again- found a cut away image on the 650 chopper site. should I be trying to hit it from both the tappet hole as well as the carb hole?
I'm not clear on what the guts look like- am I just cleaning the chamber as far down as can?
Google just saved my arse again- found a cut away image on the 650 chopper site. should I be trying to hit it from both the tappet hole as well as the carb hole?
No everything is from the carb hole. With the carb off you will be able to see the valve blocking the intake passage. turn the crank till the valve is open as wide as it will go. If you have the tappet cover off the tappet will be seen pushing the valve down (open). Then your goal is to brass wire brush the valve seat and matching face of the valve. Bending the gun cleaning brush into a gentle "U" should aid your being able to get all the way around the seat. Good luck, keep us informed on how it goes? If it works you should find your valve clearance has gotten tight again and it will need to be reset once more. I would blow air in the cylinder through the plug hole, maybe even while cleaning the seat to get any carbon out of the engine as good as possible. Arrows are the area you want to be brushing, this is exhaust but intake is very similar.
jonandjones
XS650 Enthusiast
I just have to ask cause a lot of the time the simplest things are over looked. When u did the leak down, did you make sure you where at tdc on the compression stroke on that cylinder.
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
Yes, I had just got done re-measuring the valve clearances. And had re-read the "Meatball Mechanic" link to see how it was done so I knew to leave it at TDC.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Good job with the work so far. Atleast you know now that it is, probably, not an electrical problem.
Last edited:
Bummer dude! Well it was worth a try. At this point I think it's a top overhaul. There is possibility the valve is sticking in the guide I guess but that is probably an overhaul too.
valve job valve seals new cam chain guide and probalby cam chain. rings at the least and a gasket set. How many miles on it? It's possible you bent that valve they can stick open and then the piston hits it.
All DIY friendly?
Don't know miles... 400 since makeover. I suspect about 15k as noted on an old odometer that the PO was selling on CL - may have came off the bike. BUT this is highly speculative.
Will the bent valve be obvious?
And do you just do one side?
Don't know miles... 400 since makeover. I suspect about 15k as noted on an old odometer that the PO was selling on CL - may have came off the bike. BUT this is highly speculative.
Will the bent valve be obvious?
And do you just do one side?
