Heidon electric timing issue..............i think

jlc

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Gidday
Having an issue and am at the point of swollowing pride and ask for HELP!!!!!!!!!!

In the pics attached (i hope) i have reached the retard limit on my timing unit and am wondering if i have done something wrong previously in my set up?

One question i would like clarity given to is that when setting the hall generator up should the timing mark on the rotor be at 15 deg ie firing mark or at TDC...?

Pictures attached have marks in white that indicate tdc 15 and 37.5 degrees

Thanks in Advance peoples much appreciate all the help i can get..
IMG_5840.JPG
IMG_5841.JPG
 
Pull the magnet wheel off the cam and put the crank on tdc, "pull plug and make sure the piston is at top of stroke". I think there is a hole for a pin in the end of the cam that should be pointing straight up or down. If it's not vertical your cam may be a tooth off.

cam end.JPG
 
Thanks guys for your quick response I have just got my Aussie butt out of bed and as soon as I'm in my work clobber i will attack..
Team Junk i take it that the pic you have included it what it is not supposed to look like and that the small pin should be vertical ?

gggGary i have gone and had a look at your link and am now even more confused because if you visit heidentuning.com the instructions for the unit i have purchased is to set your rotor at the firing timing mark (not TDC like Mikes) is this a brand thing or is old mr Heiden messed up?

thanks again
 
for the unit i have purchased is to set your rotor at the firing timing mark (not TDC like Mikes) is this a brand thing or is old mr Heiden messed up?
Good question but I'd be thinking TDC, cuz that's the norm, and the only point you can readily confirm with piston position.
 
I would rather set the timing with the big lefthand side engine cover off, and make a mark on the outside of the rotor, and corresponding marks on the engine block, as close to the rotor periphery as possible. This would minimize any error. I would also make a wide marker/paint mark, and scribe or file a thin line in the middle of it. Also helps with the precision.
And using any mark or feature on the camshaft for indicating TDC is not a very exact method IMHO. On a 100 mm OD rotor, 1 degree is still less than 1 mm on the circumference. On a 20 or 25 mm camshaft end, 5 degrees on the crankshaft would be 0.09 or 0.1 mm on the camshaft circumference (due to the 2:1 drive ratio, and the small camshaft end diameter) Pretty hard to precisely determine crankshaft angle on that small a diameter, I would say.
 
Also, looking down at the piston through the sparkplug hole to determine tdc is not very precise either. Around tdc and bdc, the piston moves very little for several degrees of crankshaft movement. The only really accurate method is to use a piston stop or a long stroke dial gauge some distance away from tdc, before and after tdc. Then actual tdc is in the middle of those two positions. This should then be possible to measure out with a tape measure around the pma rotor.
 
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