HELP! fixed brake switch now no electrical!

[evoloner]

OK so on my 1971 650 I was looking into adjusting the clutch return spring cause its sticking in the position i shift into, then i have to adjust it with my foot a little down, then it will shift again.
Anyways, I noticed my brake switch was not engaging when i put my foot down even really hard, so i looked at the switch and it had a wire loose. So after some soldering I got both wires back to the right spots. Here is where I get confused, I fixed the switch reinstalled it, and NOW I have NO electrical at all???? I turn the key and nothing. no lights, no neutral gear, and it wont kick over????I tried to charge the battery, even tried replacing the 20 amp fuse at the battery (at one point out of anger i even tried just straight power to the batt, still nothing), Please what else can i look at here. I am pretty electrical inclined but not on bikes, this and the 81 are my first bikes ever! Thanks for reading my pain killer induced rant, and I hope some one here can help! You guys always do!
Thanks in advance, Evol

 

[retiredgentleman]

For the kickstarter, your clutch is likely mis-adjusted now. Kickstarter goes through the clutch. Re-adjust down at the worm gear on the left engine case.

Power loss.............you must have broken a wire. You need to use a wiring diagram (see "Tech", top of page) and your VOM to trace the wiring.

 

[evoloner]

Just wondering, If i broke a wire down by the tail light where they start to connect to the harness and all that running up the frame, would that interrupt the power all the way through to the ignition? or did I fry something maybe? Just want to get a couple of ideas before i head out and work on it! All ways good to get a little direction before i start or next thing you know i have everything laying on the ground and nothing to ride all week! lol

 

[retiredgentleman]

No, the tail light wiring is just a branch circuit. It you broke a wire, then only the tail light should quit.

Use your VOM and test for voltage. Start at the battery and work your way via the fuse, the ignition switch, kill switch etc. You could also use a test light.

The other way is to use resistance scale (lowest scale) and check for continuity............disconnect the battery first so there is no voltage present.

 

[TeeCat]

No, the tail light wiring is just a branch circuit. It you broke a wire, then only the tail light should quit.

Hi, RG...

Hey, not to confound matters for Evol, but you might remember a time when I had a taillight issue that basically killed my electrics; I was using the wrong wire from my taillight as a ground (the manufacturer used yellow as ground!) and popped my 20 amp fuse. If he has a '71 and was working with that rear brake switch in close proximity to those taillight wires (it's be easy to get something crossed up), I was thinking that might be a good place to start looking for continuity (or lack of it). Just a thought... I recall things being a little muddy working with that switch back there...

TC

 

[XSLeo]

Top of the page click TECH, scroll down to Electrical, In there is a thread showing wireing diagrams. There is one for your bike. Use it to trace your wireing to find where you lost your connection.
Leo

 

[evoloner]

thanks Leo, i am going to print it out and check it this week, when i get time! between getting my 81 ready for a bike night we are getting together and the 7 month old monster we call our daughter, back burner is looking a little warm! Thanks for all the reply's and any thing any one else can think of don't be afraid to voice it! I am looking for all the help I can get!
Thanks!

 

[hmusket]

Did you try disconnecting the brake switch to see what would happen? Double check the ground from the battery to the frame?

 

[evoloner]

i unhooked the tail light switch and noticed there is no power drop (there was with the bad switch) but still no power. I am going to order a new switch from mikes monday, or if anyone has a 1971 brake switch laying around and wants to donate....and start over when i get one and see what happens from there. Does anyone know if by grounding the switch if i could have fried anything else?
Thanks again,
E

 

[hmusket]

i unhooked the tail light switch and noticed there is no power drop (there was with the bad switch) but still no power

I'm a bit confused, you say there is no power drop, but you have no power. I looked at the schematic of your bike and its pretty straight forward. If your battery is charged, battery ground good, positive tight, your fuse is good, and your ignition switch is working, you should at least have energy to the headlight. If I was looking at the correct diagram it doesn't look like you have a kill switch. You said you put a new fuse in, double check it, see if current flows through, see if its seeded properly. Other than that, I can't think of anything else, other than what Retiredgentleman said

Use your VOM and test for voltage. Start at the battery and work your way via the fuse, the ignition switch, kill switch etc. You could also use a test light.

The other way is to use resistance scale (lowest scale) and check for continuity............disconnect the battery first so there is no voltage present.