Hoping to glean Carb perspective

123petey

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hi - I’m hoping to bounce some of recent experience/issues off some or all of you to see what I can gain. I know there are tons of forums and threads covering lots, if not all, of the issues I’m having plus numerous other guides and resources and I feel like I’ve read them all. Anyway, to the problem - finished bringing a 1981 XS650 from the grave and have the whole 2 into 1 vm36 carb setup. Headers look OEM although someone poorly cut and welded what looks to be sportster or similar looking mufflers to it. Loud as hell. Annoying. Anyway... took a bit to dial in the carbs. Stator, reg/rec look original or at least old enough to be. Bought a tci box. Using a battery but deleted the starter. Kick only. New caps but coil is aftermarket but looks good. So took a while but finally dialed in the carb. Vm36 with 22.5 pilot, 190 main, p8159 needle jet with 6f9 needle middle clip, 2.5 slide. Valves and chain were set. Only bench testing was done so plugs always looked a little rich. Compression was 130-140 in both so decent enough. Left cylinder runs like a top but right seemed to always run intermittently like a harley. Chalked that up to the slightly longer manifold run to that side. Finally took it out and it ran great. On the way home from the last ride it gave one backfire at a light so I thought to raise the main to 200. Couldn’t get the bike to start. Should have left well enough alone. Had to adjust idle and air screw. Backfiring awfully and ran terribly. Put back the 190 and dialed it back in. Idled great. Took it out for a ride and sluggish and backfiring like crazy on decel and dropping rpm at stops. Plugs wet. Took of the air filter and the carb is saturated. Take off the carb and the manifold is pooled with raw fuel. Clean the plugs, dry everything out, let it go for a day. Try kicking the next day and it kicks back twice and blew the carb off the manifold. Take apart carb, clean everything, and verify float level since everything else is good. Way off. Adjust to 18mm. Put bike back together and it ran beautifully - both cylinders firing uniformly - no harley loping from the right. For about 30 seconds or so and then bogged out and died. Everything flooded again.

Sorry for the novel. So my question is the bike always seemed to be running rich despite the the slightly leaner jets. Figured the shorter pipes would want a richer jet but ran much better with lean settings. The rich float height I discovered explains maybe why I was always getting rich plugs. The signal to the cylinders through the one carb is so strong I even think it’s somehow drawing fuel through the main circuit which I why I had such a change in startup and idle when I swapped to the 200. At this point I’m at a loss - why are the cylinders flooding, manifold pooling, getting backfire through the carb, etc. Figure it has to be the electrical system then since the carbs were working great. Coil is fine. Battery was low so charged it and dried and cleaned plugs, carb, etc. Hoping maybe a weak spark. That was yesterday.

What are your thoughts, advice, opinions?
 
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So it fired on the first kick. Stumbling rough idle. Choke on. Adjusting air screw leaner helps, but also increasing idle screw helps. Turning off choke I need to give it a little throttle to stay alive. Popping like crazy. Giving in 1/4-1/2 throttle it’s a machine gun and slowly dies.

Stumped again. Going leaner seems to help but it pops and needs more gas. Also reeks like gas. Seems like I’m getting lean and rich signs. Can these tci boxes just start to go bad like this? Do they start to throw timing or just completely fail. I have no experience with these systems. Also started thinking it jumped a tooth but that’s a little extreme at this point
 
I don't have experience with VM carbs on the XS so I am not sure if you have the pilot jets too large/small and/or if your fuel mix screws are set too rich/lean. Maybe your jet setting is lean and your floats are flooding the carb bowl. I did have a similar issue while trying to adjust the jets when I had a bad battery, because the ignition was never getting the proper voltage or what not for the TCI. Do you have the original carbs you could install just to make sure it isn't another underline issue? Another thing that happened to me when I left my bike out in the sun it would struggle with throttle then die. That ended up being an issue with the fuel cap filter being deteriorated and was causing a vacuum issue. Oh and one more thing carb sync is an important step to not skip before figuring out jetting and fuel screw mixture.
 
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Thanks for the ideas. The 22.5 pilot is on the leaner side and I’m 2 turns out on the air screw. Started with it in and going leaner made it run better. This is what’s getting me is that leaner settings make it better. What you said about it being too lean and overflowing the bowl coincides with what I’m sort of seeing with the flooded manifold and changing the main and it having an impact on idle. It definitely seems like gas is somehow getting by and so by setting the carb leaner it’s hitting a balance to somewhat run. I’m out of fatter pilot jets and am waiting on them to be delivered. I’m hoping that fixes it but I’m a curious cat and like to know how and why shit happens.
 
Just a straw to clutch at but I fought a pair of VM36's for a while til I finally replaced the float needles, problem solved. One just would not consistently hold back fuel, it looked "fine".
Some of those 1 into 2 manifolds will allow fuel to puddle if a float is misbehaving. Also "correct" float level depends on how the carb sits. Any pics? might try dropping the float a bit. (raising it while upside down.)
 
I have another unused 6F9 needle. I can put that in tomorrow. Worth a shot, thanks. Float was at about 12-13mm when I adjusted (upside down) it to 18mm yesterday. I’ll try the needle first, then raise the float. I don’t have a clean pic to show the level of carb and manifold. I’ll take one tomorrow. Thanks
 
The P-8 needle jet is too fat. Use P-5 or P-6. At idle and low speed you can expect grief from most 2-1 carb manifolds because fuel tends to condense out in the long tract, and the tight radius bends don't help that situation at all.
 
Hey griz there was guy on the site put a 1 into 2 manifold and a VM on a 73 he had a very detailed thread about getting it running well. Do you remember who that was? Was some kind of child psychologist? Neat guy.
 
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Ahh, shit. Good catch. I removed it and cleaned it. Looked good. I’ll get one on order to check it. Thanks for that

Thanks for that link. Hadn’t seen that thread. Here a pic of the setup. It looks clean and level to me but maybe you see something that would lead to the float level being an issue.

Just pulled the carb and found little black rubber shavings that could have only come from the filter mouth. Gonna clean the whole thing again but either I need to replace the filter due to wear or use a little lube so it doesn’t catch in the future
 
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I remember TC's posts now, Gary. His jetting struck me as crazy rich, especially on a basically unmodified engine. I have a hunch that TC was more easily pleased than you or I would be when it came to state of tune, but I didn't want to rain on his parade.
 
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Ahh, shit. Good catch. I removed it and cleaned it. Looked good. I’ll get one on order to check it. Thanks for that

Thanks for that link. Hadn’t seen that thread. Here a pic of the setup. It looks clean and level to me but maybe you see something that would lead to the float level being an issue.

Just pulled the carb and found little black rubber shavings that could have only come from the filter mouth. Gonna clean the whole thing again but either I need to replace the filter due to wear or use a little lube so it doesn’t catch in the future
Thanks for the pic! install looks good.
I would suggest you shitcan that fuel line, good chance those slivers are your problem. Older black rubber fuel line is known to do that. It's happened to me before. My SOP is all new fuel lines on any bike I work on (tygon is my goto.)
Like the griz mentions that manifold might be an ongoing fly in your running ointment. No hard data from me just an old guys hmmm.
 
Yeah, I know the carb setup will never run “perfect” but it was more of a personal and monetary challenge. I basically got the bike (just 3 wheels, frame, and motor) for a couple hundred but it had the title. I always wanted to work on an XS650 knowing the cult following - I used to be a triumph mechanic - and wanted to see what the hype was firsthand. Everyone at the shop was laughing and my goal was under $1000 and to try and make it fun and interesting. Anyway, a tci box, couple wires, and a battery later it fired right up. Cobbled it together from spare parts of project bikes and wrecks and here we are. I sourced the whole single carb system used cheaper than a set of carbs so figured let’s give it a try. Worst case is I get a second one and run two. I guess I’ll give the tygon lines a try - never had issues with the black rubber and it’s all new line.
 
Sudco recommended I go to #10-15 pilots and I couldn’t even get it to run. I since discovered that they base everything on a #2 slide. Wondering if that may be a better setup or is it just 6 of one and half dozen of another?
 
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So this is the manifold from the triumph street twin. It’s curious how the get away with the offset throttle body and the sharp angles without negative turbulence. It’s cast aluminum so that helps making the bends and they obviously have tons of money and engineers but clearly it’s possible and functional enough. Anyway, just sharing where my thought process is
 
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