How short is too short?

[mustys]

Hey everyone,

I started rebuilding my bike, and i am wondering if I can keep my pipes this short. I have taper tip mufflers waiting to be installed, but I like the look of the short pipes. My idea is to put baffles in the pipes to reduce the noise, but I am wondering if it would be bad for the performance of the bike

Here is a picture

Is this too short performance-wise, if I put a baffle at the end of it? I like the look of the bike with no mufflers

Thanks!!

 

[XSJoel]

Lot of people run drags shorter than that, I think you will be fine. Pop some baffles in and keep it moving. Believe it or not, these motors aren't powerhouses, so I don't think it will be a big difference.

 

[Paulrxs650]

Absolutely fine with that length, decent baffles and make sure your jetting is spot on (read the carb guide in Tech section) and you're away!

 

[Derek]

Yes. (See my avatar)

You'll have to spend some time tuning, which you would with a new exhaust anyway. It's good experience none-the-less. The difference in power is going to be negligible, as pointed out up top.

~ Derek

 

[mustys]

That is some good news!

Any idea for a baffle design that would make great sound absorbtion?

 

[jchrisk1]

I run pipes like that right now. The inner pipe on the stock headers is only 1 1/8 I.D. so it's hard to find baffles that will fit. So I had to make some. I tried several different designs with no success. I ended up using some 1 1/4 conduit. I cut it 5" long and split it lengthwise and then grind-ed that cut until it would close together at 1 1/8 O.D. I used quick grip clamps to squeeze it together. Then I made crosscuts and hammered them in with a cold chisel. They look similar to these.

http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1329

 

[mrriggs]

I made some "dipstick" baffles for my my drag pipes. Just cut a strip of sheet metal as wide as the ID of the pipe then twist it like a cork screw.

Then fold the end over a pin, slide it in, and weld the pin to the pipe.

The first time I tried this without the pin (pic 1) and they broke off and blew out of the pipe in short order. The second time I tried it (pic 2), I used the pin but too thin of metal and they melted and distorted. I'm on my third revision, using a pin and 16 gauge steel and they have been going strong for a few years.

They eliminate the "brash" open pipe sound and are remarkably effective if you don't have your wrist in it. However, if you lean into the throttle you will definitely be setting off alarms.

 

[mustys]

jchrisk, how does it sound? I was thinking about using a baffle like this, and add some fiberglass packing for absorption

mrrrigs, nice idea! but i am trying to reduce noise as much as possible

 

[Paulrxs650]

This is the type I used on mine

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycl...rcycle_Parts&hash=item41693fb138#ht_724wt_689

 

[jchrisk1]

It 's still a litttle loud. Mostly when cranking the throttle. When just cruising it's not too bad. You won't be able to wrap these with packing because they are a snug fit inside the pipe. I tried some other designs that would take a wrap, but couldn't quite get them to work. Mostly because of attachment.

 

[jchrisk1]

If you buy single wall aftermarket headers(or already have them) then you have options. A lot of companies sell baffles for 1 1/2 pipes.

 

[Tron]

I run drags that long with lowbrows slide in baffles at the end.

Quiet at lights, loud when i get on it.

Easily wrap-able with some fibreglass packing as well.

 

[mustys]

You guys are so helpful!
I will shortly begin the making of these baffles, I may even add the dipstick baffles of mrriggs before the other ones, to break the sound early in the pipe, I will les you know the results