how thick should the wire from battery to starter sol. be?

[emzdogz]

hi, I'm really close to having my battery box's interior sorted out - where I'll position everything, etc. One thing that's hanging me up is the stiffness of the thick battery cable I was going to run to the starter solenoid. I know the wire from solenoid to starter motor is thick - I'm still using the original one for now.
But does the cable/wire from battery positive to solenoid really need to be that thick, too?

The other wire I'll have coming off batt. positive is one you buy at the auto parts store that has an inline fuse (20 amp) in it. So, while it is a thick wire, it's nowhere near as thick as the ground cable or the sol to starter cable.

Can I use a wire of that thickness (like thickness of main fuse power wire) from batt to solenoid? or does that wire need to be super thick like ground wire and sol to starter cable?

the reason I want thinner is because it will bend more easily inside the batt. box and not create the extra tension on the battery terminal like a real heavy curled cable would.

Am almost tempted to just create a perfectly bent solid copper jumper for that connection out of some copper flat stock I have. (.064) And then put shrink tubing over it.

thx!
Em

 

[jayel]

hi, I'm really close to having my battery box's interior sorted out - where I'll position everything, etc. One thing that's hanging me up is the stiffness of the thick battery cable I was going to run to the starter solenoid. I know the wire from solenoid to starter motor is thick - I'm still using the original one for now.
But does the cable/wire from battery positive to solenoid really need to be that thick, too? Yes, No. 6 gauge will work well

The other wire I'll have coming off batt. positive is one you buy at the auto parts store that has an inline fuse (20 amp) in it. So, while it is a thick wire, it's nowhere near as thick as the ground cable or the sol to starter cable.

Can I use a wire of that thickness (like thickness of main fuse power wire) from batt to solenoid? or does that wire need to be super thick like ground wire and sol to starter cable? No, it will burn under load

the reason I want thinner is because it will bend more easily inside the batt. box and not create the extra tension on the battery terminal like a real heavy curled cable would.
Girl up and just bend it

Am almost tempted to just create a perfectly bent solid copper jumper for that connection out of some copper flat stock I have. (.064) And then put shrink tubing over it.Might crack from vibration, have to undo both ends to remove battery

thx!
Em

use No. 6 gauge might check lawn mower shop for pre-made cable, 6 gauge is rated at 100 Amp

 

[emzdogz]

lol, ok, thank you.

 

[CDNTX650]

Car Audio amplifier power wire is really good for this. very fine strands and super flexible. I had number 8awg on a honda i rebuilt and it worked really well. Also had a new matching 8awg to the frame too. But i wouldnt go any smaller than that.

 

[Maxx650]

I just had to do this.. I ended up using 6 gauge that I believe said it was rated for 75 amps which I read was about the limit.. I almost went with 4 gauge that was rated for more, but 6 has been fine for me.. turns the starter motor just fine and isn't smoking/melting

 

[jayel]

I just had to do this.. I ended up using 6 gauge that I believe said it was rated for 75 amps which I read was about the limit.. I almost went with 4 gauge that was rated for more, but 6 has been fine for me.. turns the starter motor just fine and isn't smoking/melting

gauge ratings

 

[Maxx650]

Oh cool.. I got this stuff from home depot and thought it said 75, but honestly wasn't positive.

 

[emzdogz]

Now another issue. I don't understand the way the wire from starter solenoid to starter connects at starter housing. Diagram in Haynes manual just shows a heavy pigtail emerging from housing. Mine (80) seems to have a stud, then an extremely fargled nut, then ring end of cable, then maybe another nut- so messed up you can't really see it's a nut. No visible ( or feel-able) flats. Nothing for a wrench to grab onto, to turn and loosen Can any one tell me how this is attached? Thanks!

 

[jayel]

looks like someones only tool was a pair of vise-grips... get a pair of needle nosed vise-grips on what is left of the lower nut (below ring terminal next to starter body) hold it steady (do not turn it) another pair of vise-grips on upper nut and loosen it, turning ring terminal/cable with it at the same time may help (and throw it away) you can try getting the second nut off but if the stud starts to turn stop, it could screw up inside the starter (attached to field coils or brushes) ... those should be common 8mm nuts

 

[emzdogz]

Thanks, that makes senses. Sounds like a job for just prior to engine removal, when I can tip frame and engine on its side ( for better access)
Thanks for the tip about leaving the inside nut alone