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How To: Brat Style flat seat - old school metal pan
- Thread starter BA_Dave
- Start date
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
I could just buy a new one but where's the fun in that? The only question was, how to fabricate the seat pan? I have some experience with fiberglass composites. Smelly, potentially messy, requires relatively low humidity and temperatures > 70 degrees for a good cure. Steel? I've seen plenty of videos of "panel beaters" - guys who repair sheet metal and even fabricate complete auto body panels with nothing more than a couple of hammers and dollys.
So, a couple of hours using nothing more than a grinder, a cutoff wheel, a teardrop mallet and a couple of 2x4's for forms, a sheet of 16 gauge mild steel becomes a new seat pan. Amateur? Yes. Functional? Yes.
There's something uniquely satisfying about beating a sheet of mild steel into a useable artifact. I now have nothing but respect for the artisans who choose this as a career. Ultimately, if I decide to do more of this, I'll be able to cancel my gym membership. Call me Thor - God of Thunder. Brutal.
And now for something completely different. Upholstery anyone?
So, a couple of hours using nothing more than a grinder, a cutoff wheel, a teardrop mallet and a couple of 2x4's for forms, a sheet of 16 gauge mild steel becomes a new seat pan. Amateur? Yes. Functional? Yes.
There's something uniquely satisfying about beating a sheet of mild steel into a useable artifact. I now have nothing but respect for the artisans who choose this as a career. Ultimately, if I decide to do more of this, I'll be able to cancel my gym membership. Call me Thor - God of Thunder. Brutal.
And now for something completely different. Upholstery anyone?
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
Pounding out the seat pan was rough. I can only guess it would have been a little easier if I had the proper tools. A stump and a shot bag might have been helpful. Nonetheless, I did manage to beat an acceptable shape with limited resources. Yeah, I know. It was lazy to leave all the hammer marks in the rear bump but, once the pan is covered, no-one's going to see it but me.
I only have one recommendation to anyone wanting to try this. Source some drawing quality sheet stock. I used standard CRS from the hardware store. I later learned that drawing quality steel (DS Type B) has somewhat lower yield strength and better elongation compared to standard CRS (CS Type B). BIG difference.
Next time I do something that would make a good how-to, I'm going to have to make an effort to take more pictures of the process. I'll try to be more descriptive of the next steps.
Upholstery:
Went to my local fabric supply store and found some black vinyl on the clearance rack. A little more than one yard. Considering my seat pan is only about 8" wide and just under 2' long, I figured it would be enough. I also picked up a yard of 6oz batting and a yard of basic twill fabric for the quilted top. I decided on twill because it was A) cheap standard stock and B) doesn't have a lot of stretch. I didn't want my quilts going flat. The 6 oz batting was just a guess, I figured if the quilts weren't deep enough I could always try something thicker.
The foam they had in stock didn't really seem dense enough for my application but I bought some 2" thick foam and some 2" thick "premium densified batting". The batting didn't seem to compress quite as much as the foam. More on that later.
Left to Right: Vinyl, batting and twill backing
I only have one recommendation to anyone wanting to try this. Source some drawing quality sheet stock. I used standard CRS from the hardware store. I later learned that drawing quality steel (DS Type B) has somewhat lower yield strength and better elongation compared to standard CRS (CS Type B). BIG difference.
Next time I do something that would make a good how-to, I'm going to have to make an effort to take more pictures of the process. I'll try to be more descriptive of the next steps.
Upholstery:
Went to my local fabric supply store and found some black vinyl on the clearance rack. A little more than one yard. Considering my seat pan is only about 8" wide and just under 2' long, I figured it would be enough. I also picked up a yard of 6oz batting and a yard of basic twill fabric for the quilted top. I decided on twill because it was A) cheap standard stock and B) doesn't have a lot of stretch. I didn't want my quilts going flat. The 6 oz batting was just a guess, I figured if the quilts weren't deep enough I could always try something thicker.
The foam they had in stock didn't really seem dense enough for my application but I bought some 2" thick foam and some 2" thick "premium densified batting". The batting didn't seem to compress quite as much as the foam. More on that later.
Left to Right: Vinyl, batting and twill backing
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
I never used a sewing machine in my life. I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on a machine I might only use once or twice so I started checking craigslist. Turns out there are a bunch of older vintage machines available for 30 to 50 bucks. I did some research and found that they really just do forward and backward straight stiches but they do it very well. Bingo.
I told my wife i was going to look at an old machine and she said, "My mom wants to give us her old one." So I scored a used Husqvarna Viking - supposedly a decent machine.
Knowing nothing at all about this, I started asking questions. My mother-in-law was a huge help as were the ladies at the fabric store. The first person I asked said I should use a denim needle for the vinyl. I picked up some denim needles and upholstery thread. The woman who cut my stock said "that's overkill and will punch much bigger holes than you want in your vinyl." She recommended a number 11 ball point needle and standard heavy duty thread. Put back the denim needles and upholstery thread, picked up ball points and HD polyester thread.
Ready to sew.
I told my wife i was going to look at an old machine and she said, "My mom wants to give us her old one." So I scored a used Husqvarna Viking - supposedly a decent machine.
Knowing nothing at all about this, I started asking questions. My mother-in-law was a huge help as were the ladies at the fabric store. The first person I asked said I should use a denim needle for the vinyl. I picked up some denim needles and upholstery thread. The woman who cut my stock said "that's overkill and will punch much bigger holes than you want in your vinyl." She recommended a number 11 ball point needle and standard heavy duty thread. Put back the denim needles and upholstery thread, picked up ball points and HD polyester thread.
Ready to sew.
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
I got my machine set up, learned how to thread the machine and wind a bobbin. Pretty easy stuff.
I wanted to get some idea how the machine worked so I cut a scrap of the vinyl and started stiching. The first thing I learned was I had to hold both the top and bottom threads and start the first two stiches by turning the hand wheel or my bottom thread would bunch up under the work. The second thing I learned was to run a couple of stiches backwards and forwards at the ends of a line of stitching to lock the ends.
Next, I set up a sandwich of vinyl, batting and twill (top to bottom) and ran a couple of lines of stitches across the sandwich. I wanted to determine the best stitches per inch and distance between quilts to use. The woman at the fabric store said less stiches per inch would be better because it wouldn't compromise the stength of the vinyl but I liked the look of more stiches per inch better. time will tell if it holds up. I also decided i liked the look of quilts spaced at about 1 1/8 inches apart.
Next: Making a pattern
I wanted to get some idea how the machine worked so I cut a scrap of the vinyl and started stiching. The first thing I learned was I had to hold both the top and bottom threads and start the first two stiches by turning the hand wheel or my bottom thread would bunch up under the work. The second thing I learned was to run a couple of stiches backwards and forwards at the ends of a line of stitching to lock the ends.
Next, I set up a sandwich of vinyl, batting and twill (top to bottom) and ran a couple of lines of stitches across the sandwich. I wanted to determine the best stitches per inch and distance between quilts to use. The woman at the fabric store said less stiches per inch would be better because it wouldn't compromise the stength of the vinyl but I liked the look of more stiches per inch better. time will tell if it holds up. I also decided i liked the look of quilts spaced at about 1 1/8 inches apart.
Next: Making a pattern
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
I used a paper shopping bag to make a pattern for the quilted top of my seat cover. I made a cut down the seam of the bag and cut out the bottom leaving me with a large flat sheet. Next, I ironed the bag with a standard steam iron and ironing board to take all the creases out. I wanted the pattern to be as accurate as possible.
I turned my seat pan bottom side up, placed the flattened bag over the pan and using the side of a pencil, rubbed all around the edges of the pan. This left a faint outline of the pan on the bag. Then using a straight edge for the straight lines on the pan and freehanding the rest, I penciled in the outline.
Based on my mother-in-law's recommendation, I added a 3/8" seam allowance to the pattern. You need a seam allowance so you have some material to stitch without encroaching on the actual pattern. Because I freehanded some of the outline I knew that both halves of the pattern might not be exactly the same, so I cut out half the pattern - the side I liked best - folded the pattern down the centerline, and then cut the second half of the pattern to match the first.
Paper bag pattern and seam allowance: The lines just inside the pattern outline are the actual seat pan dimensions. The pattern outline is the seat pan dimension with 3/8" seam allowance added.
I turned my seat pan bottom side up, placed the flattened bag over the pan and using the side of a pencil, rubbed all around the edges of the pan. This left a faint outline of the pan on the bag. Then using a straight edge for the straight lines on the pan and freehanding the rest, I penciled in the outline.
Based on my mother-in-law's recommendation, I added a 3/8" seam allowance to the pattern. You need a seam allowance so you have some material to stitch without encroaching on the actual pattern. Because I freehanded some of the outline I knew that both halves of the pattern might not be exactly the same, so I cut out half the pattern - the side I liked best - folded the pattern down the centerline, and then cut the second half of the pattern to match the first.
Paper bag pattern and seam allowance: The lines just inside the pattern outline are the actual seat pan dimensions. The pattern outline is the seat pan dimension with 3/8" seam allowance added.
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
I realize this is more in the format of a build thread than a how-to. Later, if anyone's interested, I can boil it down to the essentials.
Cutting the materials for the quilted top:
I taped the pattern to the back side of the vinyl and marked it off. Did the same with the twill. There was no way to mark the pattern on the batting so I just cut a piece larger than the pattern. Using a carpenters square and tailors chalk, I measured and marked the locations of the ribs on the front side of the vinyl.
I sprayed a light coat of spray adhesive on the twill backing and let it set for a few minutes. Then I laid the batting on the twill. I was then able to trim the batting to the edge of the twill. I sprayed a light coat of the adhesive on the back side of the vinyl and let it set. Then I carefully matched the other two layers to the vinyl. Now I had a sandwich of vinyl, batting and backing cloth fully marked, tacked together and ready to sew.
Pictures: 1) Fully marked vinyl. 2) Materials, bottom to top - twill backing, batting, vinyl.
Cutting the materials for the quilted top:
I taped the pattern to the back side of the vinyl and marked it off. Did the same with the twill. There was no way to mark the pattern on the batting so I just cut a piece larger than the pattern. Using a carpenters square and tailors chalk, I measured and marked the locations of the ribs on the front side of the vinyl.
I sprayed a light coat of spray adhesive on the twill backing and let it set for a few minutes. Then I laid the batting on the twill. I was then able to trim the batting to the edge of the twill. I sprayed a light coat of the adhesive on the back side of the vinyl and let it set. Then I carefully matched the other two layers to the vinyl. Now I had a sandwich of vinyl, batting and backing cloth fully marked, tacked together and ready to sew.
Pictures: 1) Fully marked vinyl. 2) Materials, bottom to top - twill backing, batting, vinyl.
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
I don't have any pictures sewing the quilts. It was pretty easy to see where the needle was relative to the presser foot and feed the fabric straight through the machine. There's really only two things I'd do differently next time.
1) The fabric is fed through the machine by feed dogs on the bottom. The presser foot holds the fabric down from the top. While sewing the quilts, the backing material pulled through the machine first and the vinyl was held back by friction from the presser foot. This caused the whole stack to shift. Next time I'll put some pins through the stack in the seam allowance at the leading edge. This should hold the stack together during stitching.
2) I wasn't sure how long the bottom thread on the bobbin would last. It ran out in the middle of a line of stiching and I had to go back and restart where I left off. Not a huge issue but it's visible on the fourth quilt from the right in the second picture below.
1) The fabric is fed through the machine by feed dogs on the bottom. The presser foot holds the fabric down from the top. While sewing the quilts, the backing material pulled through the machine first and the vinyl was held back by friction from the presser foot. This caused the whole stack to shift. Next time I'll put some pins through the stack in the seam allowance at the leading edge. This should hold the stack together during stitching.
2) I wasn't sure how long the bottom thread on the bobbin would last. It ran out in the middle of a line of stiching and I had to go back and restart where I left off. Not a huge issue but it's visible on the fourth quilt from the right in the second picture below.
Attachments
QWERTYMage
XS650 Addict
Sick. Looking forward to more. Good luck.
hooktool
XS650 Junkie
That looks familiar. 
Looking good.
A stump with a small depression is hard to beat-I've about quit using the sandbag. Its easy to shape the cold rolled in the stump-drawing quality is good but hard to find.
I had mine upholstered after giving it a couple of tries.
John
Looking good.A stump with a small depression is hard to beat-I've about quit using the sandbag. Its easy to shape the cold rolled in the stump-drawing quality is good but hard to find.
I had mine upholstered after giving it a couple of tries.
John
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
To complete the side panels I first cut two strips of vinyl 5" wide + 3/8" seam allowance and 32" long. I carefully matched the edge of the side panel to the edge of the quilted top and stiched all the way around 3/8" in from the edge. Remember the 3/8" seam allowance? This yields a quilted top the same dimensions as the seat pan.
To finish the end seams, it was necessary to fold the ends of the first side panel back on themselves and tack them in place with spray adhesive. The second side panel was then stitched in place ovelapping the ends of the first. All that's left is to run a seam up both ends. Since the cover is stitched inside-out, when the cover is reversed, the folded and tacked end of the first panel is on the outside giving a clean finished look.
Pictures: 1) First and second side panels stitched in place. 2) 3/8" seam allowance. 3) End seam. Note how the folded end of the first side panel is now on the outside.
To finish the end seams, it was necessary to fold the ends of the first side panel back on themselves and tack them in place with spray adhesive. The second side panel was then stitched in place ovelapping the ends of the first. All that's left is to run a seam up both ends. Since the cover is stitched inside-out, when the cover is reversed, the folded and tacked end of the first panel is on the outside giving a clean finished look.
Pictures: 1) First and second side panels stitched in place. 2) 3/8" seam allowance. 3) End seam. Note how the folded end of the first side panel is now on the outside.
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
Finished product.
The reason I decided to write this up is because with zero experience, I was able to put in about 4 hours work on the upholstery and achieve a wholly acceptable result. I'm a cheap bastard. No need to drop $100 - $200 for a sweet looking seat. The best part is you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. If my result encourages someone to jump in and try something they haven't done before, then i consider this a success.
This was my first attempt at upholstery. Diamond quilt? Checkerboard? No problem. I'm going to do a couple more seats and try to develop some more complex patterns. Once the pattern is done, the stitching is the same. Piece of cake. Might have to wimp out and go with 'glass for the pan tho.
The reason I decided to write this up is because with zero experience, I was able to put in about 4 hours work on the upholstery and achieve a wholly acceptable result. I'm a cheap bastard. No need to drop $100 - $200 for a sweet looking seat. The best part is you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. If my result encourages someone to jump in and try something they haven't done before, then i consider this a success.
This was my first attempt at upholstery. Diamond quilt? Checkerboard? No problem. I'm going to do a couple more seats and try to develop some more complex patterns. Once the pattern is done, the stitching is the same. Piece of cake. Might have to wimp out and go with 'glass for the pan tho.
Attachments
BA_Dave
XS650 Member
Hooktool,
I'm liking the rolled edge on your pan. After seeing this, I may consider getting a stump and doing another steel pan. Have you ever worked alimunum? I'd like to try a bump stop next but i don't think I can get that deep a draw out of CRS. Two piece it and weld?
The upholstery wasn't all that hard. It took a lot of patience - not something I have in abundance.
I'm liking the rolled edge on your pan. After seeing this, I may consider getting a stump and doing another steel pan. Have you ever worked alimunum? I'd like to try a bump stop next but i don't think I can get that deep a draw out of CRS. Two piece it and weld?
The upholstery wasn't all that hard. It took a lot of patience - not something I have in abundance.
hooktool
XS650 Junkie
Yes, aluminum is easier, You can anneal it if you have to, but most of us don't. use 3003 H-14 (half hard) Bump stop? Is that the rear of a cafe type seat? Easy to shape in one piece-another piece or two for the bottom and other parts.
You did a pretty good job on the upholstery.
John
You did a pretty good job on the upholstery.
John
Lluber
Noob
man, this looks really nice.. and after lurking around on the internet at very expensive seats this seems like a great way to go, plus the self satisfaction of making the seat yourself.. Definitely giving this a try.
Dave Walters
XS650 Addict
How did you mount the vinyl on the bottom side?
Can we see pics?
Can we see pics?
