Hydraulic suicide clutch set up w/ handle bar clutch

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desmodromic

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I would like to run a suicide hydraulic clutch on my bobber build. My problem is that in NYC is not a place to have that kind of set up, you need to make emergency maneuvers constantly. I would like to run a foot clutch so I can still have a jockey shift and hand clutch so if I have to put my left foot down I can still have the clutch pulled in. I attached a pic of a sketch a drew up of how I want to set it up. Do you guys think I can run this set up without damaging my masters? for example if I squeeze the foot clutch I do not want all the pressure to be relived at my top master or the other way around. I am not concerned about the fabrication to make it work, I am just concerned about how my clutch system will operate. I hope I made sence
 

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That would probably work, but I would try to find some kind of one-way valve or fitting that you could put on each line at the slave cyclinder. That way it would eliminate any over pressure going back to the other master. Only problem is, I don't where to find anything like that or if it even exists.

BTW, where in NYC are you? I live in Long Island. And with a screenname like 'desmodromic' I assume you are Ducati owner.

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I never heard of a one way valve for brakes and I highly doubt it exists because once you squeeze the brake lever the brakes will stay locked since the one way valve will not let you relive the pressure you just applied. I do not think the masters will be affected. My biggest concern that I just realized is that when you squeeze one of the masters it will have the same affect when you split the pads in you brake caliper, all the fluid rushes to the reservoir.

I wrench in Williamsburg (Brooklyn) and yes I am a Duc owner. I was going to be a Duc tech but I decided to go back to school to be a Doctor.
 
Maybe it would be easier to run a cable actuated remote master cylinder, and run 2 cables to that. Im not sure that you could get 2 masters to work with the one slave without NASAs help.

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You've got your mind set on the specific arrangement you want and you started this thread to ask questions about said setup, so I'm not gonna bother trying to steer you in a different direction. If you insist on both a foot-clutch and a hand-clutch how 'bout running dual cables to a single remote master? <<click link. Fabricate two clevises to coordinate with their respective cables acting independently of one another yet actuating the same master cyl. Already been proven to work well on brakes. If this doesn't make sense I can provide a half-ass sketch to illustrate.

EDIT: just noticed yamaman's post above after walking away from typing then later submitting & refreshing page; same idea.
 
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yamaman & turn left thanks. I was thinking about that for a quick second but let it go since I did not want to use cables but now I guess that is what I am using now. Turn @ Turn left, the link you gave me is good but I am concerned abut using what looks like a rear brake master. Do you think that will put too much pressure on the slave?
 
@desmodromic, do some research on the ready-made xs650 hyd clutch kits ie what piston bore in the slave and master. when you source your parts just look for a match of that ratio. racing go-karts use a cable to master to hyd line for their brake setup so an ebay kart m/c coupled with a custom bracket may be a good start. I am picturing this all neatly arranged on the 7/8" frame rail under the tank above where the coils mount. A couple old clutch perches could even serve as cable stoppers to pull the arm on your kart style master cyl.
 
Well thanks for the interesting question, ive enjoyed thinking this one over. I cant see an easy way! You possibly go fly by wire, though the right balance would be hard to find. Another possibility would be to make the foot clutch direct linkage. Then add a floating slave cyl between the actuator and the pushrod. ie find a small slave, cut out that much pushrod and fit it in there. I would imagine that the clutch would disengage before the foot pedal would be pulled down, though you'd have to watch for that. Another fanciful thought I had was use a pressure sensing switch on one m/cyl that triggered a stop valve on the other and vice versa. One problem could be the returning fluid would always go to the easiest (probably lowest) m/c. Cheers

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I was talking to some of the mechanics at my shop and one of them suggested running a similar set up that they us in stunt motorcycles for the rear brake, in this case for my clutch. I am researching how they add another master to the rear brake system
 
@post#15 we must be using the same Google :)
@post#16 yes it does seem to go against our theory of the pressure being diverted into the other m/c. maybe call their tech suppt to see if they will sell the secondary fitting only. but on that note, I don't see how a simple double banjo would be any different
 
I am just going to stick to using one master and a cable set up. I'll take pics of the set up when I start building it. Thanks for the help
 
Im guessing the red line replaces the resevoir, and goes to the extra m/c. It must then push through the original m/c. This must be why they say there is a 10% loss.

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