Low power after fusebox, uneven idle... H E L P !

AirsoftNY

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This is a new problem, have put only about 50 miles on the bike so far, it was so far so good until today.

So I was "stalled bike guy" today taking a drive through town. Was at a 4 way light, waiting to go, and bike starts idling very roughly, sputtering, missing, sounds like it's about to cut out. As I make if into the middle of the intersection, it dies. Embarrassing, can't get it started and have to push it out of everyone's way...

I have a problem with the electrical, forward of my fusebox I'm getting low voltage, 8-10 volts or so. But before the fusebox at my battery, I'm getting 12.5 or 13 v with the bike at about 1200rpm.

I have a full Hugh's PMA kit installed, as well as Pamco. Also running a set of Mike's PWK carbs. Fusebox is one of those blade style ones. Simplified wiring set up.

Timing is perfect on the Pamco, carbs are in sync, advance unit is doing it's springy thing.

The bike will but not hold idle for long, as I watch the voltmeter, voltage starts at around 11v (after the fuses) and drops slowly, idle starts to break up and it dies. Blinkers turn on but blink intermittently. turning the headlight off seems to let the idle last a little longer before it dies. The whole time I consistently am getting about 12.5v at my battery. :wtf:

thanks

Aaron
 
It would seem that something in the fuse box is acting up. Seems odd to me though. Have you tried replacing the fuse box? I ask this because I had one that was cheap and melted on me once power went thru it.
 
Thanks Bill, I'm going to try swapping the fusebox.

Was investigating again yesterday. I found sometimes the engine will cut off now if I turn my headlights to high beam. What can this mean? Looked over my wiring for bad grounds, and I'm not blowing any fuses.

thanks
 
I would start looking for shorts, like where the wiring goes through the headlight shell. grommets are often overlooked or end up cut on older bikes.
 
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