Mounting rectifier and carb jetting help

MedicWild

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Hey all!

First off, this form and community has been amazing. Thanks for all the amazing info and help on my builds.

I have two questions;

First, I have read that mounting the rectifier directly to the frame and with enough air flow is ideal. I was hoping to mount it inside my steel electrical box for esthetics. The body of the rectifier is the ground so I was thinking that if I mounted it to the steel box AND running a ground wire to the frame it would be ok? Will it get enough ventilation in there under the seat? There is a 2” gap between the seat bottom and the box so some flow will pass through…

Second question; need advice on jetting/tuning my mikuni 34mm round slides for the yo mama pipes I am running. The carbs came “pre tuned and jetted” but I assume those are for stock pipes. Anyone run the same set up?

The thanks in advance! This has been an awesome time building. Looking forward to kicking it over for the first time this week. Thanks
 

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What you have there is a combination regulator and rectifier, two units built into one housing. Notice the cooling fins on it. I would hang it from the bottom of the battery box, on the outside, "in the breeze" so to speak.

Also, I think I'd fit rubber grommets on your electrical box mounts.
 
First, I have read that mounting the rectifier directly to the frame and with enough air flow is ideal. I was hoping to mount it inside my steel electrical box for esthetics. The body of the rectifier is the ground so I was thinking that if I mounted it to the steel box AND running a ground wire to the frame it would be ok? Will it get enough ventilation in there under the seat? There is a 2” gap between the seat bottom and the box so some flow will pass through…
Hard to see, but at the bottom of your pic, looks like a PMA alternator, yeah? If it is, they always put out max power at any given rpm. That's just how they work.
The regulator shunts excess power (what doesn't get used) to ground. That process generates a lot of heat.... so the more cooling you can give it, the longer it will last. Without adequate airflow, they can burn themselves out pretty quick.
Also, the Japanese reg/rec's have a much better rep. than the cheap Chinese variety.
 
What you have there is a combination regulator and rectifier, two units built into one housing. Notice the cooling fins on it. I would hang it from the bottom of the battery box, on the outside, "in the breeze" so to speak.

Also, I think I'd fit rubber grommets on your electrical box mounts.
Thanks for the recommendation. That makes sense. Would rubber grommets neutralize the grounding effect through the entirety of the frame? Or is the box and rubber enough?
 
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Hard to see, but at the bottom of your pic, looks like a PMA alternator, yeah? If it is, they always put out max power at any given rpm. That's just how they work.
The regulator shunts excess power (what doesn't get used) to ground. That process generates a lot of heat.... so the more cooling you can give it, the longer it will last. Without adequate airflow, they can burn themselves out pretty quick.
Also, the Japanese reg/rec's have a much better rep. than the cheap Chinese variety.
All this makes complete sense. Thank you. As 5twins mentioned, I might as well mount it to the bottom of the box.

This rec/reg came with my PMA HHB kit. How do I know if that’s Chinese vs Japanese? No manufacturing markings on it.
 
Well yes, rubber grommets will isolate the box from ground, but how good do you think the grounding was anyway with the box loosely rattling around on those 4 posts, and painted posts at that? You'll want to run a specific ground wire from the box to the frame. I'd do this even without the rubber grommets. But the way these bikes vibrate, I'd rubber mount that electrics box or I think the components inside it will suffer.
 
Well yes, rubber grommets will isolate the box from ground, but how good do you think the grounding was anyway with the box loosely rattling around on those 4 posts, and painted posts at that? You'll want to run a specific ground wire from the box to the frame. I'd do this even without the rubber grommets. But the way these bikes vibrate, I'd rubber mount that electrics box or I think the components inside it will suffer.
Nice. Makes sense. Off to the hardware store for grommets now!
 
Update;

Mounted Rec/reg to bottom of the box, ground off the paint where the body grounds, and added two grounding wires which will bolt onto the frame about 1’ away. Hope that is enough to prop ground it.

Added rubber grommets for rattle factor.

Next is to mount the CDI box in there somewhere and wire it all together! Thoughts?
 

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Thinking out loud here
No experience of Magnet charging
But I can see 2 yellow one black and one red The stator wiring on Stock to rectifier has 3 white and red + and black ground. -
Is that actually a combo all inclusive ?

If possible it can be better have ignition and charging away from each other So the magnetic field does not affect the Ignition
This is just a thought ,nothing i exactly Know
 
Thinking out loud here
No experience of Magnet charging
But I can see 2 yellow one black and one red The stator wiring on Stock to rectifier has 3 white and red + and black ground. -
Is that actually a combo all inclusive ?

If possible it can be better have ignition and charging away from each other So the magnetic field does not affect the Ignition
This is just a thought ,nothing i exactly Know
I'm guessing the PMA kit + reg/rectifier above aren't 3 phase then?

The Yamaha one, as you obviously know, is three phase hence the three white leads from the stator.
 
I have no clue. Is there a chance I’ll kill my CDI box if it’s mounted a few inches away then?
Sorry, to clarify what I was saying - Whether the PMA is single phase or three phase has no influence on where you mount the CDI box.

FWIW, and I'm no expert, I can't imagine putting a CDI box near a reg/rectifier is a problem. Both of them need an air flow for cooling though.
 
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