Need a spark of hope

Yes, lower the needle by raising the clip. Stock position is in the middle #3 slot, put them in the #2 slot. It shouldn't have a major effect on starting but will let the bike run cleaner through the midrange. The larger jets on top and at the bottom are going to richen the midrange as well so you need to compensate for that by leaning the needle setting.

For hard starting, I would check timing, choke jets, float level, valves, in that order. Set mix screws to 1.5 turns out to start with, then fine tune from there once it's running.
 
I can get theignition close by lining the white dot up on the Boyer ignition, that didn't work so well last time. I'll set everything back to stock and see where that brings me.

Posted via Mobile

How did it not work?

Are you certain the motor was in full advance when you aligned the boyer marks?
 
Valves are next on my list but today I did the following.

1) checked the battery and voltage. Everything looks fine.

2) checked for spark, which I had but I'm not sure if there is such a thing as to small of a spark. Is spark, spark?

3) reset the Boyer ignition to full advance (default setting)

4) Checked the floats with sub sighting tubes and then when I pulled the Carbs and they are set right at 24mm

5) I pulled the Carbs and started re-cleaning them. This time I'm going to spend lotsof time to make sure they are perfect. But I have to say that they already look incredibly clean before I started. I haven't found anything that would indicate what my problems were. I'm going to leave the new larger main and pilot jets to work with my open exhaust and intakes.

I'll keep you guys posted when I get them back on the bike :banghead:
 
Have you:

checked the cam chain tension
set the valve lash
made sure the battery is fully charged
checked for flow or lack of out of the petcocks

If your engine is rebuilt, make sure your cam is in correctly. May have been reassembled off a tooth on the cam gear? is that possible? Haven't had mine that far apart yet

I know these may be things you've gone over already, just a check list
 
Are there any good posts on how to check the chain tension or valve lash or should I just grab my manual? I have checked the battery and made sure it is completely charged and I also checked that I was getting fuel flow from the petcocks. I’ve also used a sight tube to check the fuel level in the bowls. Since I have the carbs apart again I’ll take the time to check the chain tension and valve lash. I am also going to run a dedicated + wire to the Boyer coil to rule out weak spark. It will be a few days for me to get all of this done and checked. I really hope this works
 
Back
Top