Now a new problem.

[cmyoch]

What next? I thought I had my rough riding problem isolated to bad spark plug wires and cracked caps. I installed brand new spark wires and caps today and now I'm only firing on one side! The white indicator light in my cluster stays lit also when running. Did I burn up my coil?

A little bit of background, I tested my engine firing with regular automotive spark wires that weren't a copper core and also without the resistor caps. Could that have caused the coil to go out?

Any help advice would be appreciated. I hope this is an easy fix.

Craig

 

[cmyoch]

One more thing to add. When I put the non copper core wire on the one side to test it, I did notice the white instrument light glowing when I would rev the engine. At idle, it would go off. It struck me as odd and I figured it had something to do with the spark wire. I'm thinking I fried the coil at that time. Any thoughts?

 

[XSLeo]

If you put your bike info in your signature we would know what your bike is and be beter able to help.
To check a coil you need to check the primary and secondary ohms. The specs depend on the year of your bike the pre 80 bikes use a coil with a 3.9 ohm primary and a 8,000 ohm secondary.
The 80 and up use a coil with a 2.5 ohm primary and a 10,500-15,500 ohm secondary. to test you use a meter set to the proper ohm scale and test between the small wires that feed the battery voltage to the coil and from those wires to ground. Continuity to ground is a bad thing. on the pre 80 coil you check the secondary from thr place the plug wire goes on the coil to ground and to the primary wires. Continuity to the primary side is a bad thing.
The 80 and up you test the primary the same way. The secondary you check the ohms from plug wire to plug wire and from the plug wires to ground and the primary side. any continuity to ground or the primary side is bad.
you should only use a copper core plug wire on these bikes. Any other core has to much resistance to the spark.
The white light on your dash indicates a lighting issue and has no bearing on the coil.

 

[cmyoch]

My apologies. I have a bone stock 78 Special with no mods other than pod filters. One thing I noticed a week ago was that when I mounted my rear blinkers and tested them, the rear light would go off and come back on after tapping on the lens. I'm wondering if the high revs the other day caused the filament to break. I'll check it out. I plan on switching plugs from the side I know is firing to the one that isnt. It may be just simply a fouled plug from the bike missing and running rough. I will also check the points then move to the coil.

I'm not an electrical wiz so the first thing I need to do is go by a meter then read your advice several times to make sure I'm testing this properly.

 

[XSLeo]

If you google using a multi-meter you might find a good tutorial on how to use one. They are not hard to use. It just takes a little practice.
I have one from Harbor Freight. The # 90899 sells for around $10 regular price, almost always on sale for about $6. If you get most any magazines on cars, bikes, home repair, you might find their ad and they have a 20% off coupon that saves a bit more.
You can get one about like it for around $20 at most parts stores. Even Wally World has them.
Going to Radio Shack And getting a few resisters, They come in two packs for a couple bucks. Get a pack of 10 ohms. These can be used to approximate most of the ohms you will find on your bike.
Two in parrallel equal 5 ohms, thats the rotor. If you can find a 1 ohm that is about the same as the stator.
In the repair manual it explians about how to do checks on the regulator, the rectifier, as well as the coils. It will come in handy if you start to have other problems and you need to trouble shoot the wiring.
Whatever meter you get it will be money well spent.
A winking tail light. Something you can practice your meter skills on. Probably a bad bulb or the bulb loose in the socket, or a weak ground. All easy fixes.
Seeing you worked on the turnsignals you may have loosened a ground.
If you go into your profile there is a place you can add a signature. This is a good place to put your bike info. At the top of the page click control panel it takes you to your profile.

 

[cmyoch]

I guess that's why they call them "idiot" lights. I posted my dilemma before taking a moment to think about it. It makes sense now that the coil wouldn't have anything to do with that light. I had two blinker sockets that needed to be crimped a bit to hold the bulbs tightly, the tail light may be the same. It makes sense now that when I would rev it up the vibrations would either shake the filament in the bulb loose or the bulb would not make contact in the socket.

I plan on picking up a meter this week and test the coil. Thanks so much for the advice. BTW I added my info in my signature to avoid any further confusion.

 

[cmyoch]

Well the light issue was a burnt filament in the tail bulb. I guess my personal "idiot" light came on by posting the issue by not thinking things through. I plan on tackling the dead cylinder tomorrow.

 

[cmyoch]

Well, I do not have a problem with my coil. I swapped spark plugs and it wouldn't fire on the other side. I swapped with a new plug and it fired right up and idles fine. I am running pretty rich which is why my plugs are black. Now it's time to start researching on how to adjust the air/fuel mixture!

Hot Diggity! I may be riding soon!

 

[XSLeo]

www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf tells you what you need to know.

 

[cmyoch]

I have to say that without this forum, I'd be up $hit creek. The wealth of knowledge here is outstanding. No one beats me up for asking dumb questions either. I truely feel like part of the family here and I'm grateful I stumbled upon that old XS!

 

[nj1639]

^ These xs's'll get under your skin. May not be the last bike you'll buy but may be the last bike you sell.