I ordered some banjo bolts from mikes because one of my originals sheared. The ones they sent me just start to thread but come to a brick wall and don't want to thread past about a mm in and I am not about to ruin threads. My copper washers also seem a smidge too small to fit against the base. Is this normal from mikes xs? Is there a better place to order from?
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Oil delivery banjo bolts wont thread.
- Thread starter JE4570
- Start date
Partzilla has OEM's in stock. Here ya go.
If you have a metric thread gauge check the pitch of the new bolts and the old bolts. They should both measure 1.25. If the new bolts are the same as the old you may need to clean up the new threads with a thread file. If you don't have a thread gauge go buy one. They are very handy, you will need it again in the future. Or as Jim posted get new OEM bolts and copper washers..
The threads seemed to match up when I layed the new ones into the old ones. This seems to be a matter of diameter. My old crush washers wont fit on the new ones either. I will look into making sure that the threads are clean enough too, but as of right now I think it’s just the banjo bolts I got from MikesXS. I will probably get some new ones from partzilla with the link Jim gave me.
Let us know if the Yamaha bolts work. I've bought a lot of stuff from Mikes. Most have been OK. Be good for everyone here to know if his banjo bolts are bad. Also if you can get OEM from Yamaha that is the best way to go usually.
The banjo bolts my buddy got from Mike's a few years ago were total junk. They threaded in but sheared off before they could be tightened to spec. And that spec isn't super high, only like 12 or 14 pounds. Upon closer inspection, you could see why they broke. The cross-drilled holes in them weren't centered in the necked down area, they were off to one side, and that necked down area was deeper than on the stock bolts. So, there were two "glitches" with the Mike's replacements and combined, they resulted in a part not up to the task of handling the job it was supposed to. I'll use nothing but stock ones here. Even if the heads are all rusty, I just wire wheel them clean and paint them with Testor's silver model paint. You can't see them anyway once the motor's in the frame and the top motor mount is installed.
Another bad item my buddy got from Mike's was the fitting for the other end of the oil pipe, the one at the bottom that screws into the engine block. It screwed into the block OK but ....., lol .....
Another bad item my buddy got from Mike's was the fitting for the other end of the oil pipe, the one at the bottom that screws into the engine block. It screwed into the block OK but ....., lol .....
So I looked at the bolts more closely... my original looks like its mildly deformed, but threads into both holes with just my fingers. I notice some variations though between the new and old bolts. The diameter at the base seems too large and I cant fit the copper washers over them. also the tip of my original bolt looks so different almost like it was filed or something. I cant tell if my original is the thing that is messed up or if the mikes bolt is. All I know is the original threads fine in both holes and mikes bolts dont.
The threads seem ok as non precise as this test may be
The threads seem ok as non precise as this test may be
wrenchjohns
XS650 Addict
Try running the bolt into a die, verify thread pitch with original first then go to the Mikesxs bolt. When to new hangs (hand pressure only) you should see the problem, then carefully run it into the die with lube. After doing this, run it into the case with hand pressure only. Problem should be solved.
john
john
Good way to check pitch.
From what you've posted it looks like Mike's banjo bolts are crap.
From what you've posted it looks like Mike's banjo bolts are crap.
I ended up getting some used ones on ebay because I had already made my lowball offer before I knew about those new OEM bolts. I’ll try these cheap ones off a parts bike first. They will either work or we will know that something more serious is up. Now just to wait for the UPS man.
Has anyone looked at metric banjo bolts for hydraulic systems? What is the thread size here? M12x1.5, M14x1.5, or some other?
On a side note, I once came across a setup with a "2 piece" banjo bolt, the piece holding the fitting was only holding the inside lip of the banjo housing, and had an internal hex drive. Basically just a top hat shape threaded nipple, with a small flange and internal hex. The other piece was just a blanking plug. That way, the weak, cross drilled mid section of the bolt was omitted entirely, and flow restriction reduced as well. This design obviously requires a banjo fitting body that is designed accordingly. Maybe something to consider for anyone building their own oil supply pipes,
On a side note, I once came across a setup with a "2 piece" banjo bolt, the piece holding the fitting was only holding the inside lip of the banjo housing, and had an internal hex drive. Basically just a top hat shape threaded nipple, with a small flange and internal hex. The other piece was just a blanking plug. That way, the weak, cross drilled mid section of the bolt was omitted entirely, and flow restriction reduced as well. This design obviously requires a banjo fitting body that is designed accordingly. Maybe something to consider for anyone building their own oil supply pipes,
