I purchased a Pamco 277 kit from mikes xs 3/14/2013. My mechanic is telling me that he cannot get the two cylinders both timed correctly. In other words guessing that the spacing of the pickups or the rotor may be off. What are the chances this is possible? And if so, what would be the next step. Also, would anyone be able to explain the process for static timing a Pamco 277. I did shoot Pamco an email thru his website, but have not heard back. As always thanks in advance for any help.
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Pamco 277 Timing?
- Thread starter RCGRT
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
The "ignition" mark is 15° BTDC for the left hand cylinder. The right goes along for the ride. It's "ignition mark is clockwise from the left hand cylinder.
From my first picture you can see starting from the approximately 5:30 position, TDC for the left cylinder. Moving clockwise is 15° BTDC, or the position at idle for the left cylinder, cylinder #1. The next mark is 40° or full advance. The next set of three yellow marks are the same TDC, I and F for the right cylinder, #2.
I also have two pictures showing with a timing light, where the left cylinder should be and then I did the same for the right, at full advance positions.
Your mechanic should have a timing light and not trying to do this statically.
From my first picture you can see starting from the approximately 5:30 position, TDC for the left cylinder. Moving clockwise is 15° BTDC, or the position at idle for the left cylinder, cylinder #1. The next mark is 40° or full advance. The next set of three yellow marks are the same TDC, I and F for the right cylinder, #2.
I also have two pictures showing with a timing light, where the left cylinder should be and then I did the same for the right, at full advance positions.
Your mechanic should have a timing light and not trying to do this statically.
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I was afraid the answer was going to be something like that.
As I had it pretty much set up exactly like you described. I used a timing light, however I marked the rotor in two places with corresponding numbers to verify each cylinder.
He was saying he likes fire at idle around 10° rather that 15. But the main problem stated is that the pamco is not adjustable from one cylinder to the other, which I understand as it wasn't designed or built to be.
As I had it pretty much set up exactly like you described. I used a timing light, however I marked the rotor in two places with corresponding numbers to verify each cylinder.
He was saying he likes fire at idle around 10° rather that 15. But the main problem stated is that the pamco is not adjustable from one cylinder to the other, which I understand as it wasn't designed or built to be.
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
So why do you think you have a rephrase problem? The crankshaft splines are a given and the rotation is fairly precise. You could modify the Hall sensor location on the aluminum plate for one of the cylinders but why? What is the underlining concern or problem here?
I think Pamco Pete mentioned this in some thread here a while back.
I think Pamco Pete mentioned this in some thread here a while back.
Agreed the crank is fixed,
The concern is that the hall effect sensors are fixed on the plate so that only one cylinder can be timed properly. What I'd really like to know, is what is how likely is it for this to be true? Or is the timing just not being checked correctly?
The concern is that the hall effect sensors are fixed on the plate so that only one cylinder can be timed properly. What I'd really like to know, is what is how likely is it for this to be true? Or is the timing just not being checked correctly?
Not beeing a smart ass here, but your sure your mechanics know what a 277 rephase is? if he tries to adjust the cylinders as if it were a 360 then he wont get them correct at any time.
