Peening Cam master link

David Toll

Reliving my youth?
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Got everything back together and she looks a treat. Unfortunately, like most back-yard mechanics, I am filled with doubts about my ability to complete the job correctly. Am lying awake at night wondering about the master link on the cam chain. Did I fit it correctly. I used a cheap Chinese riveter and suffered the common problem of pin slip off the link post. The job looked OK at the time but now I have my doubts. The thought of that chain doing 3000 revs with a poorly fitted master link is giving me cold sweats. Poured over some relevant threads and it would appear that the consequences of link failure are worth an inspection before I re-install the motor. So...... can I remove the head cover, (It has 1104 on it), inspect and peen the link, (to satisfy my feelings of inadequacy), clean the top surfaces up and re-install everything without needing to replace the head or base gaskets. They are copper sprayed. I would rather not pull the jugs off again. Opinions? I promise I will be careful!
 
Yes, that seems like a logical approach. And I feel your pain, been right there.

I need to think for a moment about gasket crush and head torque. Can't remember if cam cover bolts affect that or not.
 
we rented the biggest set of bolt cutters the hardware store had. We had a smaller set..but it didn't have the opening we needed.
then.. not be'n the brightest blub on the tree.... we practiced on a used chain until we got the results we wanted.. I stood on the bench.... centered the bolt cutters.. my partner got the cutting edge aligned...then.. I closed the bolt cutter.. Perfect.
Since then we got on of the Mike's XS cam chain press.. which works ok.
 
David, don't fret about the gaskets.They'll be fine. Just relieve torque on the head fasteners evenly and slowly, in reverse order to installation sequence (installation=opposite to opposite, inside to outside; removal=opposite to opposite, outside to inside). Leave the two bolts by the spark plug holes in place with light torque on them--about 8 ftlbs. is fine and there's no need to get AR about that. The head cover will break itself loose.

But first think about whether you need to pull the head cover at all. The riveting job does not have to be pretty. There's no side load on the master link plate, the rivets only need to keep it from slinging off. If you got the rivet heads mashed out wider than the edges of the holes, you're good to go.
 
But first think about whether you need to pull the head cover at all. The riveting job does not have to be pretty. There's no side load on the master link plate, the rivets only need to keep it from slinging off. If you got the rivet heads mashed out wider than the edges of the holes, you're good to go.
I'd agree with that advice David. You must have obviously though it was good when you did it or you wouldn't have proceeded. Like Grizld said, there's no side load and it ain't gotta be pretty...
 
I realize it's too late for you this time around, but here's a little tip for the next time you tackle that rivet job. I suffered from the same problem at first, the rivet tool pin walking off the master link pin as you tightened the tool down. My solution was to tap a little "X" cut into the tops of the rivet pins first with a small sharp chisel .....

af0HUWQ.jpg


This held the tool's pin centered and kept it from slipping off to the side. I got a nice, even "smush" .....

7LhkYqQ.jpg


I finish that off with some hand peening using a small ball peen hammer, until I get the ends the way I want them .....

IJz0fLZ.jpg


I get even better results now since I got some replacement riveting pins for my MikesXS tool from Motion Pro. They have a bit better shape to the head, still rounded but more tapered into that round bottom portion. I highly recommend them.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0062
 
but here's a little tip for the next time you tackle that rivet job

Thank you for posting this info 5twins. This for me as well has been the one job that I have been the most concerned about when it comes to reassembly in the next couple of months. Your pics and post here are most helpful and I feel more confident now approaching this critical step.
 
It may seem like a daunting task but it's really not all that difficult. Back the link and sprocket up with a little block of wood you can hold on to really well while you hand peen the other side and you'll be all set.
 
Excellent advice as usual gents. As grizld1 suggests, the side pressure on the link plate can't be significant and the post heads are certainly bigger than the master plate holes. Jim, you are also right, I was happy with the job at the time. It's just a three o'clock in the morning thing that has me tossing and turning. I picture the wide open road, the wind in my hair, (If I had any) and the utopian scene suddenly destroyed by the sound of a disintegrating engine as my cam chain flaps around the intervals in an expensive death frenzy.
Grizld's description of how to inspect it all sounds like my best option if I am to have peace of mind.
Will follow your advice, (and excellent photos), 5Twins if I ever suffer temporary insanity and tear it apart again. There is, however, a definite sense of satisfaction I must admit to, as she goes back together, even with a couple of stuff-ups.
Much appreciated gentlemen. Will take some photos and keep you posted.
 
Great to hear that you've got it back together, David.
Looking forward to seeing a picture of the bike when it goes back on the road.
.
 
OK, folks, let's have a boots-on-the-ground look at the issue. Among all the wrong things I've seen done that have killed XS650 motors, I have never seen one fatality due to a cam chain master link coming apart. Has anybody actually seen that happen? Has anybody even heard of it happening? Facts, please, no speculation!.
 
I have a 1000 mile XS2 motor, near as I can tell it had a head gasket leak, billy bob ripped it out ,started the tear down, ground off the cam master link and that was it. It sat forty years untouched,they never even lifted the cylinders off the studs.I thought it was worth $50. Yeah I haven't touched it either LOL
Guy still had the chassis with the 1,000 on the odometer. That's alI I got,over 50 xs's have passed through here, not one cam chain failure of any sort, a few stretched ones,sure..
 
.......that have killed XS650 motors, I have never seen one fatality due to a cam chain master link coming apart. Has anybody actually seen that happen? Has anybody even heard of it happening? Facts, please, no speculation!.
Even if we expanded that out to "all chain driven cam" engines..... I still can't think of an example.
 
OK, I get the idea - cam chain failure is rare and I'm being neurotic. I just hate the thought of my incompetence screwing the lovely old lady up. The reason I ask questions in this forum is to get expert advice and I'm not about to ignore it. I'll do as Gary suggests and rotate the link into the sump. No oil back in the motor yet so I should get a decent view. Can then spend the time installing filters, chain tensioner, breather box, initial adjustment on the valves and think about putting it back in the bike. My thanks for your time gentlemen.
 
As mentioned, as long as you mashed the top of the pin down a bit larger than the hole it comes through, you should be fine. After all, look at the rather crude job the factory did on their install .....

QLi07Nb.jpg


..... "ugly" is the only word to describe it, lol.
 
Whe I installed my cam chain, I installed the side plate, Used a large pair of vice grips the crush the ends of the pins enough so the side plate stayed inplace while I used a 2 lb sledge hammer to back up the link while I used a 20 oz ball peen hammer to round over the pins a bit.
No fancy tools needed. Been peening things such as this all my life, never had one fail yet.
Leo
 
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