Powder coating frame

Capt_Zoom

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If I've chopped and welded in new seat rails for a bratstyle bike and chopped out the neck gussets is it safe to powdercoat? I'm a bit worried about the high temperatures to cure the powdercoat warping the frame.

Those of you who powdercoat, do you make some sort of frame jig to keep it straight?

Trying to decide on whether to powdercoat or paint/clear my frame. At least with the new harder paints followed by a clear I can touch it up if I get a chip or scratch.
 
You can powder coat it. It won't hurt anything. I like painting since touch ups are much easier like u said but I def like powder for rims etc..
 
I have had both powder coat and clear over base paint applied to a frame and IMHO paint is a more satisfactory solution.

To my eyes powder coat looks 'thick' (an' I don't mean stupid) and there is a limited selection of colours (which may or may not be an issue for you) plus any subsequent damage is nigh on impossible to rectify.

Conversely, modern automotive paints come in a myriad of colours give (again IMHO) a nicer looking finish and in the event of damage can be repaired.
They are as least as durable as powder coat and may even have better scuff resistance.

Go for paint! :thumbsup:
 
I use to work in a powder coating shop and did powder coat my frame but like others have said it makes touch up’s almost impossible. One thing you can do though is dissolve some of the powder in MEK solvent and put it on that way. However make sure that if you do powder coat you get the nylon based stuff as it is much stronger. Also tape off or plug any holes or threads that you want to keep clear. Once the power is on the frame it’s hard to clean this stuff off.

Powder does have the advantage of coating the inside of your tubes nicely as well as it is electrostatically charged.
 
I have done a lot that way and if anything it made it stronger. Just make sure all is clean and no bondo. Most people thing powder coating is going to cover up mistakes and it shows them better than paint.
 
Powder coat or paint will not hide imperfections made by grinders etc... They will magnify them exactly the same way. Powder coat is a bit thicker so it hides better but not much. That is mainly why I paint my frames. It allows light coat of finish plastic over imperfections, then prime, then paint. Makes for a super nice looking frame. I love powder coat on parts, just not the best choice on a modified frame. Better suited to stock frames.
 
You guys are killing me with all these knowledge tidbits, here I was hoping to have my frame powder coated thinking it would cover up my zealous grinding. Now I will have to clean up my work a little better. So what frame paint is your favorite?
 
Who's going to do the powder coating for you? I've had good luck with those guys across the street from The Hunt Club. Giddings Performance, I think is the name.
 
I totally agree with the point made regarding getting the base metal as blemish free as possible.

Whilst a good painter can loose some imperfections using a high build primer, you will be paying for his (or her) time to flat them back. Far better that you take the trouble to do this yourself.
Another benefit of painting is that you can use fillers to fill grinding marks and tidy up welds as the the temperatures use in a paint oven are nowhere near as high as that used in powder coating.

As to which paint....probably the same sort of answer that 'Which oil? elicits - one question tens of answers.

Unless you are going to paint the frame yourself then I use whatever the sprayer is used to - they should be able to get the best out of what they know.

I also tend to mask up the areas I don't want paint to reach; headstock and swinging arm pivots and VIN Plate. Use ear plugs to mask threads but still take the time to run a tap through before assembling.
 
I like powder coat. After I finished an RD350 with a painted frame one of the carbs overflowed and ate right through the paint on the frame. It irks me to this day.
 
Gas will not eat automotive clear. It will eat laquer clear and spray can paints. If you paint your bike try and use automotive grade clear that requires a hardener. If you get gas on it wipe it off and u will be fine.
 
if you're worried about imperfections in the metal before you powder coat there's this stuff called Lab Metal, a little easier to work with than JB Weld and is rated at a higher temperature (1100 degrees F i believe).

I think everyone is forgetting one huge benefit of powder coating over painting - COST, it is a whole lot more expensive to paint.
 
They powder coat at what temperature? 425 degrees on the high side? That shouldn't hurt or warp your frame at all. Now if they stick it through the furnace first to burn everything off, then you're talking about 2 or 3 times that temperature, but I still don't think you'd have anything to worry about. :twocents:
 
Who's going to do the powder coating for you? I've had good luck with those guys across the street from The Hunt Club. Giddings Performance, I think is the name.

Yeah, it's Giddings. You can wait at the Hunt Club while they bake your powder. I've had stuff done at Giddings. But come spring I'll be baking my own. I'm going to do my own frame (powder).:bike:
 
I’ve had luck using body filler on my frame (with harder) and then covering the filler with Zinc based primer. The biggest issue with the filler is that most of them won’t handle the electrostatic charge and the powder doesn’t flow evenly onto these area’s . It would be nice to know what the powder shops are using to fill these small imperfections.
 
I used Lab Metal on my bobber before it got powder coated. Works good provided it's not to thick. Didn't work well on an inperfection on the tank.

For example, I have an electrical box mounted under my seat. Had a welder put in a plate and I cut a window in it for the box. But he didn't do a solid weld from the frame rails to the plate, I wanted it smooth.
Image057.jpg

So I patched up the edges with Lab Metal and grinded/sanded it smooth.
Image059.jpg

I filled and smoothed out some other parts of the frame too.
Image058-1.jpg

Here's an after pic of the electrical box area after powder coating.
Image021.jpg

Yes! That's Powder Coat, Gray, Red Metallic, then Clear. Done be Elite Electro Coating in Lansing MI.
 
Gas will not eat automotive clear. It will eat laquer clear and spray can paints. If you paint your bike try and use automotive grade clear that requires a hardener. If you get gas on it wipe it off and u will be fine.

Yes it will. Frame and body painted at the same time. Dupont automotive base/clear. Not lacquer.

you can see the spot just under the motor.

100_0374.jpg
 
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