pros and cons of pod filters

ckahleer

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I'm considering purchasing a bike that has the air box removed and has pod air filters.
I recall hearing that air boxes are designed to improve drivability/performance/fuel economy.
I could reinstall an airbox and filter, But would I get the the above mentioned benifits?
 
I've tried both and see no difference in drivability, very little in fuel economy, but I feel performance is better with pods if the carbs are tuned properly. The only downside to pods I've found is driving in heavy rain. When you come to a stop, the bike may want to stall if you don't blip the throttle to keep it running. I guess it sucks a little water in then. Going down the road at speed seems fine. I guess the water just blows by then. This hasn't hurt the bike at all. I've been running the pods for over a dozen years now. If the motor was going to blow or go bad, I think that would have happened by now.

So, the only check mark in the "minus" column for pods to me is the rain riding thing. The check marks in the "plus" column far outnumber that - better performance, easier carb access, and more room under the side covers for electrics. They're very easy to install, remove, and service. The stock airboxes are a nightmare by comparison to install and remove, what with their multiple fasteners and fittings. The pods have one clamp screw, lol.
 
If the motor was going to blow or go bad, I think that would have happened by now.

Any chance you could check the compression on your bike for us? This is just out of pure curiosity (because there's too many variables to make any definitive take aways from your results regarding the use of pod filters). But if you're compression is good then pod filters get the green light from me. If it's wack then it's impossible to say pod filters are the culprit.

Also, what pod filters seem to work best? Are there waterproof or water resistant filters anyone has tried? Does filter shape seem to matter at all? (cone vs cylinder)
 
Uni's are commonly referenced as the only pods to run, especially on stock (or stock style, ie not VM's or lectrons, etc.) carbs.

I've always had good luck w/ Uni's on CV carbs and I'll mostly likely forego the stock airbox on my current budget build and use Uni's. Just remember, w/ a CV carb, use the biggest/longest carb you can fit, as it will increase air volume for carb to draw from and provide a more stable airflow.

If you wanna try to improve performance a bit more, you can fit velocity stacks inside Uni's with some modifications to the anti-collapse spring.

Another AWESOME option that I'd love to run (likely on my bobber build w/ VM's) will be @MessnerMoto "Triple Velocity Stacks" - https://messnermoto.com/product/triple-velocity-stack-uni-air-filter-49-50-51mm/ (these are just an example, he makes other diameters)
 
I've always monitored my compression over the years and thankfully, it hasn't changed much. It's always been up in the mid 140's.

Yes, the UNI straight foam pods are best on these CV carbs. The K&N pleated style don't work as well. I started out with the K&Ns but never could get the bike tuned perfectly. I switched to UNIs and all the "glitches" I was experiencing disappeared. For the BS38s, the UNI UP4200 (or UP4200ST dual layer) fits like a glove .....

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The BS34s have a slightly different sized intake bell, actually a bit larger than the 38s, so the better choice for them is the UP4229 or UP4229ST (dual layer) .....

BsA4RKJ.jpg


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For oiling, a simple 50-50 mix of motor oil and gas is recommended, simple and cheap .....

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Aftermarket K&N round Tapered type usually do not have a large enough breathing area but the oval types
do. K&N's and older Mikes type have no step so they do not block the holes on the carb bellmouth.
Only downside to the uni type is that they will burn instantly if they get some fuel on them and the bike
has a backfire thru the carb.
 
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