question re: pick-up coil

emzdogz

Aunty Em
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hey folks, wondering if there is a reason why the 3 wires coming off pick-up coil must be in a separate "sheath" of shrink tubing from the ones off the alternator? Could those just go in the same bundle of wires as the rest coming off the alternator?

(seems it would be easier to work with that way, but I was just wondering)

thx!

Em
 
think they do that so you can replace one or the other without disturbing the other, Em

ok, that sure makes sense. But if I wanted to combine them, there's no electrical reason all those wires can't be bundled directly next to each other, right?
thx..
:)
 
yep go right ahead, they lay close enough together if there was a problem they would need to be shielded cable instead of just wires
 
2 cents and worth it... I wouldn't put em together.
What's the point, they are hidden under a cover.
Why ask for trouble. The alternator wires are (very dirty) AC, bundle them with the pick up wires and you have built a transformer, might or might not be an issue but who needs extra gotchas? The hall effect signal is not all that strong. No electrician am I but I sure have been bit by unintended consequences once or oh 200 times.
 
2 cents and worth it... I wouldn't put em together.
What's the point, they are hidden under a cover.
Why ask for trouble. The alternator wires are (very dirty) AC, bundle them with the pick up wires and you have built a transformer, might or might not be an issue but who needs extra gotchas? The hall effect signal is not all that strong. No electrician am I but I sure have been bit by unintended consequences once or oh 200 times.

for me, the purpose would be to have one bundle of wires to try and shove in that tiny area behind that piece (shift shaft cover) right under where the gear shift pivot is, rather than 2. That piece, shift shaft cover, in effect is a retainer and guide for the wiring. But that space where the wiring has to go through is way too small for the old, hardened wiring bundles.

Was going to just leave the old, but brittle stock sheathing on it, but it's so hardened and inflexible that there's no way to get it shoved into that little space where it is supposed to be routed. Especially both of those. I can't even get the bundle that the alternator wires are in stuck in that space, due to how stiff that plastic sheath has become.

So they're going to have to be re-wrapped anyway, as the old stuff is literally crumbling off. The question for me is: can it all go in one bundle or is there some reason they needed to be separate.
 
emzdogz, so hows that bike coming along? Almost ready for the road?

Good question! I think one really efficient and knowledgeable and motivated person, if they didn't need to wait for parts and coating of pipes, could get my bike down off the lift it sits on, plumb the carbs, twist some wires together, re-check some fasteners for tightness, and start it on up, like today, even!!!!!!!!!!

lol.... but I need parts and am taking my pipes to the coaters' TODAY!!!!!!! :)
Plus, my efficiency and knowledge levels, (not to mention motivation) are not very high. But, as I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel, the motivation is rising a bit.

Got my taxes back so I can buy some parts now, still need a new front master cyl....

Let's put it this way, my goal is to be able to ride it to Daytona for Biketoberfest.
Won't have final paint yet I don't think, but maybe it'll never have final paint.

One thing for me is I do have another bike that I can ride, so I'm not "bikeless" while this one's apart. And there's no rush, cuz I do like to sit and just ponder at times.

thanks for asking!
:)
 
I agree with gggGary, the alternator is 3 phase but the frequency varies with engine speed, however the voltage is low (12/15). But it might be possible at some speeds the harmonics could interfere with the Hall-effect signal.
 
Guaranteed you will not see anything on the pickup wires due to proximity to any other wires. Unless the insulation vibrates away :) Also I believe the pickup isn't a Hall sensor, strictly speaking. I think it's a coil of wire, and working on the same principle as a magnetic microphone.
 
Aunty,
Rat Shack sell's ashielding wire if your really worried about cross-fire from the alternator. The shield is a braided wire cover that would go over the 3 pickup wire's. Personally, I don't think you will need it. I do believe that Jayel is correct, that the reason for them being separate is for ease of replacement. Stator's and pickup's do go bad, but I think you'd be ok bundleing them together. How's the Sporty comming?
 
ok, thanks everyone, for the info. Much appreciated.
:)
Gordon, Sporty is OK - it mostly just sits, although I'm thinking of riding it out to Texas in June.

How's your Sporty doing? Have you been posting about it over on that forum? I haven't been on there much myself lately....
 
Aunty,
I haven't been over there much either. Like you, I am getting all my parts together for the top end rebuild. Just got the heads back, all new valves & guides. Waiting on head bolts then reassemble 'er. Did a complete rewire, came out real nice. I am surprised I didn't have a major burn down, 'cause the PO was not carefull at all when he spliced the wiring together. Gotta take a few pic's, new drag bars, headlite bucket, signal's, ect. I think it looks alot better. Next winter I think I'll give 'er new paint. Oh yea, they are the super fat 1 1/4" bars. Got them for $35 delivered, new.
 
how do you check the pickup coil, my 650 starts fine but wont rev above 30000rpm. the plugs are black. rebuilt the carbs, replaced the TCI box no change, Anyone have an idea What to look for?
 
30000rpm's wow mine won't as well! sound like you are to rich or your carbs are out of sync.:thumbsup:
 
Sorry about the extra 0 i meant 3,000 rpm obviously. I just ordered 2 carb kits from Mikexs. Ill try this and see if it helps. Thanks for the input folks.:doh:
 
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