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With any rearsets you'll have to bend the kicker to clear the brake pedal and footpeg. I use Raask rearsets, and I don't recommend them. Brake and shift controls are made of cheap, brittle pot metal that breaks if you breathe on it, and replacements are outrageously expensive. Assembly errors (control rod riveted to wrong side of actuator, etc.) are also common. IMO the best course of action is to take your time and cobble your own together from salvage parts.
blackbetty
XS650 Junkie
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I use Tarozzi rearsets fabbed up to work as mids.
Very high quality units.
Very high quality units.
It all depends on what you're after; easy bolt-on, looks, footpeg location, folding or non folding, solid or rubber mount, passenger peg compatability and so it goes on. I would agree with Grizld in that Raask are c**p. TC bros and Tarozzi would be more or less bolt on, Fast From The Past stock Tarozzi. Now, Tarozzi are quite heavy, and Tarossi and TC Bros both have the pegs too far back for my taste. They both also are mounted solid.......
I am building my own rubber mounted plates, with pre-75 XS pegs located halfway between the mounting studs. This is my personal preference, for a balanced riding position and period look. Both pedals are self-made of polished stainless steel.
Last January I saw an XS at Phillip Island in Australia with modified stock pegs located like this. He had just cut down the stock mounts, and welded the stock hinge part on, centered between the studs. He also had welded on a gear lever pivot mount, and relocated the brake pivot. It all looked almost stock, and reused pegs and brake pedal.
If low weight, modular system and a more modern look is desirable, I strongly recommend LSL from Germany. Super light, anodised alloy, solid or spring loaded pegs, just mix & match pegs and pedals as required.
I am building my own rubber mounted plates, with pre-75 XS pegs located halfway between the mounting studs. This is my personal preference, for a balanced riding position and period look. Both pedals are self-made of polished stainless steel.
Last January I saw an XS at Phillip Island in Australia with modified stock pegs located like this. He had just cut down the stock mounts, and welded the stock hinge part on, centered between the studs. He also had welded on a gear lever pivot mount, and relocated the brake pivot. It all looked almost stock, and reused pegs and brake pedal.
If low weight, modular system and a more modern look is desirable, I strongly recommend LSL from Germany. Super light, anodised alloy, solid or spring loaded pegs, just mix & match pegs and pedals as required.
Cornish Pixie
Shiny obsessive
I've got a set of TC Bros on my build and they certainly aren't light! Pretty solid construction, have to cut and drill stock gear shifter and brake pedal. Also have to bend the kick start quite a bit. Due to their solid mounting points I wouldn't recommend them on anything that is going to be ridden a long distance and they do pitch your feet quite a bit higher and back than stock pegs.
I just forgot to mention one thing: I purchased Tarozzi gear shaft arm and brake shaft arm from FastFromthePast. They list these as individual items.
It should also be possible to cut & drill a gear pedal from any other Yamaha or Honda, as the spline is fairly common. Suzukis are different, at least some of them.
The brake shaft spline may also be the same as the kickstart spline, at least on old RDs they are. So a broken kickstart knuckle may be possible to modify into a brake actuator arm.
It should also be possible to cut & drill a gear pedal from any other Yamaha or Honda, as the spline is fairly common. Suzukis are different, at least some of them.
The brake shaft spline may also be the same as the kickstart spline, at least on old RDs they are. So a broken kickstart knuckle may be possible to modify into a brake actuator arm.
blackbetty
XS650 Junkie
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The splined shaft for the kick start is much larger in diameter than that of the brake pivot on the XS
I definitely reccomend using the Tarozzi pieces for the XS if you are mounting true rearsets....I cut the end off my shift lever to fab up a 1/2" rod for my hand shifter...
I definitely reccomend using the Tarozzi pieces for the XS if you are mounting true rearsets....I cut the end off my shift lever to fab up a 1/2" rod for my hand shifter...
I keep stumbling across alternatives. Check out Joker Machine, they have nice universal rearsets, very much like Tarozzi, but with some more grooves and holes. Nice 60/70's style I think.
kelso
XS650 Addict
I know that this question will get me some crap but I have looked around and I am still not clear on the location difference between rearsets and mids. Would the original pegs be considered rearsets while mids are moved forward from the stock location.
No such things as stupid questions, so here is my take on footpeg location:
Highway/Chopper/Forward pegs are all the way forward, around frame downtube.
Mid mount would be between forward and stock position (why????????????)
Stock location should be pretty obvious.
Rear sets are anywhere further back than stock location. Most bolt-on rear sets move pegs around 8" (200mm) and results in a fairly extreme position...
Like mentioned earlier in this tread, I prefer a "mild" rearset position, with pegs located around the swing arm pivot. With low conventional handlebars this puts the pegs under the riders centre of gravity, which improves control.
Highway/Chopper/Forward pegs are all the way forward, around frame downtube.
Mid mount would be between forward and stock position (why????????????)
Stock location should be pretty obvious.
Rear sets are anywhere further back than stock location. Most bolt-on rear sets move pegs around 8" (200mm) and results in a fairly extreme position...
Like mentioned earlier in this tread, I prefer a "mild" rearset position, with pegs located around the swing arm pivot. With low conventional handlebars this puts the pegs under the riders centre of gravity, which improves control.
