Regrec putting out alternating current

chrispunk

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hey, I’m wiring up my build and it’s not charging. Put a meter on and I just get a jumble of numbers which I think means I’m getting alternating current to the bettery? I’ve tried a spare Reg/rec and Get the same result.

I don’t have a brown wire coming from my alternator and was told to use the black in place and change my brush bolts for nylon which I’ve done.

It did charge at one point but a mate had Jerry rigged it all with croc clips and now he isn’t sure what he did.
 
I guess the only answer is to ask....................what do you have???? what has been changed????

If your mate can't remember what he has done .............how are we expected to know, (without asking a multitude of questions about the state and condition of the bike), and even then it will fill pages of threads due to the fact we have no information to go on....................

Help us help you..............

Pics............What has been altered.........We are not clairvoyants.
 
It’s a 79 with a solid state rec/rec

I’ve got from the alternator 3 x white 1x green 1xblack 1xyellow

From the reg/rec 3xwhite 1xgreen 1x Black 1xred

The point about what my mate did was just to show that as a system it will charge properly but for some reason( presumably my wiring) it doesn’t now
 
79's have points and separate reg and rect. If a solid state Reg/Rect has been put on the bike then it needs to be identified and make sure it is the right one for your model. These are only an aftermarket product and you may have the wrong one................

You have rewired the bike or something.................

I don't have the patience to ask all the questions needed to get blood from a stone...........

Others will help.............again if all the information is not given..................answers become more questions................

My superpowers say this is a hard-tail with a lot of modifications, you seem to be withholding the information required...........
 
The bike had been rewired, everything else eiectricsl works perfectly. Running a Boyer ignition with small motobat battery.

There’s nothing being held back, I just didn’t want to foood the post with irrelevant information.

My 3 main questions are is it correct I run the black from the alternator to the brown from the Reg/rec and switched live? It’s wited as the image below accredit the colour of that brown wire.

Generally what could cause the alternating current to be getting to the battery?
 

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I’m pretty sure when we did have it charging it wasn’t wired as the diagram because I’ve had to put nylon screws in the brushes to stop it blowing fuses since it’s been put like that.
 
Sorry you'll need to ID the regulator, there are way more wrong than right regulators and ways to wire them. Then there's lots of crap regulators from a certain large asian country that tend to puke in short order if they work at all.
 
hey, I’m wiring up my build and it’s not charging. Put a meter on and I just get a jumble of numbers which I think means I’m getting alternating current to the bettery? I’ve tried a spare Reg/rec and Get the same result.
I don’t have a brown wire coming from my alternator and was told to use the black in place and change my brush bolts for nylon which I’ve done.
It did charge at one point but a mate had Jerry rigged it all with croc clips and now he isn’t sure what he did.

Hi chris,
it'd avoid a shitload of preliminary Q & A's if you built your bike's specification into your signature line.
See below. If I can do it, so can you.
And is that London Ontario, one of the dozen or so Londons in the USA or the real one?
 
The red wire coming out of your reg/rec is from the rectifier portion of it. It carries the converted DC current to the battery. It should hook to the red wire coming off the battery positive and running up to the key switch, after the fuse but before the key. You could test the voltage output on that red wire. It should be between like 12 and 14 depending on engine RPMs.

This bike uses a 3 phase alternator but there were 2 versions. The difference was in how the brushes were wired. The early version ('70-'79) grounds the inner brush through it's mounting screws to the alternator casting and the regulator sends power to the outer brush through the green wire. The regulator turns that power on and off to control the alternator output. The later alternator version has the brush wiring kind of reversed. The inner brush is fed constant switched power from the harness. Whenever the key is on, it gets power. The outer brush is now the grounded one. The regulator feeds that ground to it on the green wire. By turning that ground on and off, it controls the alternator output.

So, there were 2 types of regulators used on these. The early type switches power on and off, the later type switches the ground on and off. Your '79 should use/need the power switching type if it still has an original '79 alternator. You can use the later ground switching type by connecting the brushes up differently (feed power to inner) and doing the plastic screw mod (isolate inner from ground). You said you did the plastic screw mod but failed to tell or show us just which screws you changed. Only the 3 mounting the inner brush should be changed, the ones marked "Grounded" here. The other 4 screws in the pic should remain the factory steel ones .....

FsP8L7r.jpg


But, you only do this mod and different wiring if the reg/rec unit you're attempting to use is the later ground switching regulator type and your alternator is the early style. Those are the important things you need to find out. I looked at that website you say you got the reg/rec from, and at the 2 units you think it may be. Their description is rather vague and it's unclear as to what type they are. There are aftermarket combined solid state reg/recs with power switching regulators in them. If yours is one of those then the plastic screw mod isn't needed. The fuse blowing was caused by something else, not the reg/rec unit.
 
It’s either an rr34 or re35 from electrixworld.
The red wire coming out of your reg/rec is from the rectifier portion of it. It carries the converted DC current to the battery. It should hook to the red wire coming off the battery positive and running up to the key switch, after the fuse but before the key. You could test the voltage output on that red wire. It should be between like 12 and 14 depending on engine RPMs.

This bike uses a 3 phase alternator but there were 2 versions. The difference was in how the brushes were wired. The early version ('70-'79) grounds the inner brush through it's mounting screws to the alternator casting and the regulator sends power to the outer brush through the green wire. The regulator turns that power on and off to control the alternator output. The later alternator version has the brush wiring kind of reversed. The inner brush is fed constant switched power from the harness. Whenever the key is on, it gets power. The outer brush is now the grounded one. The regulator feeds that ground to it on the green wire. By turning that ground on and off, it controls the alternator output.

So, there were 2 types of regulators used on these. The early type switches power on and off, the later type switches the ground on and off. Your '79 should use/need the power switching type if it still has an original '79 alternator. You can use the later ground switching type by connecting the brushes up differently (feed power to inner) and doing the plastic screw mod (isolate inner from ground). You said you did the plastic screw mod but failed to tell or show us just which screws you changed. Only the 3 mounting the inner brush should be changed, the ones marked "Grounded" here. The other 4 screws in the pic should remain the factory steel ones .....

FsP8L7r.jpg


But, you only do this mod and different wiring if the reg/rec unit you're attempting to use is the later ground switching regulator type and your alternator is the early style. Those are the important things you need to find out. I looked at that website you say you got the reg/rec from, and at the 2 units you think it may be. Their description is rather vague and it's unclear as to what type they are. There are aftermarket combined solid state reg/recs with power switching regulators in them. If yours is one of those then the plastic screw mod isn't needed. The fuse blowing was caused by something else, not the reg/rec unit.


Thanks man, that’s really helpful. Hopefully I’ll get some time to look in to it tomorrow. I’m pretty sure it’s the later Reg rec.

I’d been told to change all 4 screws to the brushes to nylon so that’s probably not helping me.
 
When AC gets past the rectifier it's usually due to a bad diode or diodes. If you're using a conventional wet battery the first warning you'll get is acid boiling out of it. If you have a sealed battery, AC will get it hot and possibly breach the case. If you install a late unit reg/rec on an early alternator without adapting wiring and brushes, the only result will be failure to charge.
 
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