Regulator, quick question

[tommytwohands]

Hi,

Got off work early and am working on a new XS project, sidecare rig. Can someone demystify how I can accomplish this line from the charging guide?
"On the solid state regulator models all you need to do is locate the green wire at the regulator plug and make a jump from it to ground"

...On a stock tci ignition/charging system. Do I remove the green wire from the connector to accomplish this? certainly overthinking

Tommy

 

[Jim]

No need to remove the green wire. Just touch the screw on the green wire brush to ground to test the rotor or regulator.

 

[tommytwohands]

No need to remove the green wire. Just touch the screw on the green wire brush to ground to test the rotor or regulator.

I’m not sure I understand. Isn’t it grounded already?

 

[Jim]

I’m not sure I understand. Isn’t it grounded already?

No, the green wire isn't grounded. It runs back to the regulator. The regulator then grounds it to energize the rotor. Temporally grounding it (green wire) energizes the rotor, giving full charge. This is for testing only.... which is what I thought you were trying to do.

Might be helpful if you describe the problem you're having?

 

[tommytwohands]

No, the green wire isn't grounded. It runs back to the regulator. The regulator then grounds it to energize the rotor. Temporally grounding it (green wire) energizes the rotor, giving full charge. This is for testing only.... which is what I thought you were trying to do.

Might be helpful if you describe the problem you're having?

Yes I’m working on testing. The bike has weak charge & fails the slap test. The rotor is showing proper resistance. The brown wire hot brush is getting almost full battery voltage with key on…drop of about 0.8 volts from battery to that brush.

So moving onto the regulator now. So the regulator grounds the green wire internally? Could I just remove the green wire from the brush and move it aside or are you saying basically fastening a wire to that green brush screw to the negative battery terminal?

 

[gggGary]

Grounding that green brush effectively puts the alternator in full charge mode. Grounding it won't hurt the regulator so no need to disconnect the green wire. Do not fall for cheap replacement regulators they fail quickly.

 

[Jim]

Could I just remove the green wire from the brush and move it aside or are you saying basically fastening a wire to that green brush screw to the negative battery terminal?

Take something metal... a piece of wire, needle nose pliers... anything metal. Touch one end to the screw holding the green wire and touch the other to bare metal.... the stator case is perfect. That will ground the rotor, allowing full charge.
By doing that you're isolating the rotor and brushes from the regulator. Process of elimination.

 

[tommytwohands]

Grounding that green brush effectively puts the alternator in full charge mode. Grounding it won't hurt the regulator so no need to disconnect the green wire. Do not fall for cheap replacement regulators they fail quickly.

What do you recommend for replacement god forbid mine is struggling?

 

[Jim]

From Tech....

https://www.xs650.com/threads/diy-reg-rec-5twins-and-jim.55842/

 

[tommytwohands]

Take something metal... a piece of wire, needle nose pliers... anything metal. Touch one end to the screw holding the green wire and touch the other to bare metal.... the stator case is perfect. That will ground the rotor, allowing full charge.
By doing that you're isolating the rotor and brushes from the regulator. Process of elimination.

Okay I see what you mean Jim and I appreciate it. I was confused since that green wire brush screw is threaded into and surrounded by the metal of the stator all around so it seems like a ground exists already.

 

[Jim]

Okay I see what you mean Jim and I appreciate it. I was confused since that green wire brush screw is threaded into and surrounded by the metal of the stator all around so it seems like a ground exists already.

Nope, on '80 and up, the brush block is isolated from the stator.

 

[tommytwohands]

Nope, on '80 and up, the brush block is isolated from the stator.

THAT WAS THE MISSING LINK
sorry for yelling

 

[tommytwohands]

So hands down if the bike fails the slap test that certainly indicates a poor connection with the rotor or regulator right?

 

[Jim]

So hands down if the bike fails the slap test that certainly indicates a poor connection with the rotor or regulator right?

By grounding the green wire, you're taking the regulator out of the system... pretend it ain't even there.
To pass the slap test you need power to the brown brush (from the key switch), about 5Ω on the rotor and not shorted, two good brushes and a ground (supplied by you on the green). If all that's good, you'll pass the slap test.

You don't need to run the engine. Just turn the key on, short the green and see if you have magnetism. Let us know.

 

[tommytwohands]

Gotcha gotcha, is a 0.8 voltage drop between battery and the brown wire brush acceptable?

 

[Jim]

Yes, acceptable for testing. A bit high for normal use, but close enough to make magnetism.

 

[gggGary]

To be clear your brushes look like this;

Not this early style? note how the early style top brush has a longer tab that is grounded by the bolt on the left.

 

[tommytwohands]

Alright some good info for my next approach to the bike

 

[5twins]

If you take a look at the inside of your stator, you'll see that both brush mounting screws are isolated from the stator frame .....

On the earlier stators (up to '79), all 3 of the inner brush mounting screws screw into the stator frame and ground that brush full time. Only the outer brush wire connection is isolated .....

 

[tommytwohands]

Now that I know it, I can’t believe I ever didn’t lol