removing clutch center nut without basket holding tool?

[marp68]

I'm about to replace the bendix gear and spring due to grinding noise.

I don't have a special tool (or old welded plates) to hold the clutch basket when unmounting the cente nut.

To hold the basket still, is it maybe enough to just step on the rear brake with a gear engaged? Or will I still need to use a special tool?

Martin

 

[racerdave]

I'd like to also ask, to those that answer the op, is the nut left or right hand threads?

 

[marp68]

BTW

One must remove the clutch basket before replacing the bendix gear and spring, right? Or is there some other way to do it without removing the basket?

 

[jayel]

a good air gun should spin it off but it's better to have the lockup plates/tool, easier to get correct torque when reassembling... it's a standard thread
check the needle bearing while in there, the newer bearing helps the clutch a lot

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-22.html#products
Part #39-6505

 

[pamcopete]

You can make a tool by drilling a couple of holes in one of your clutch plates and bolting a sturdy "L" bracket to the plate. Chamfer the holes to eliminate any burrs and reinstall the plate when you are finished.

Put a couple of nuts in between the plate and the bracket to allow the plate to be positioned below the edge of the basket.

 

[marp68]

jayel,
is it not possible using the foot on the brake and gear engaged when reassembling/torqueing the nut?

pamcopete,
smart idea, but will the drilled holes not cause any balance problems when reusing the plate?
how can one see if the needle bearing is not okej?
anything else, I might as well change when having the clutch loose?

If the nut will not loose standing on the brake with the gear engaged, I might order a holdup tool at the same time as ordering the bendix gear and spring. Doesn't cost that much.

 

[hooktool]

Its not left hand, its right hand. Lefty loosey, righty tighty. I use an air impact, the holding tool is good to have, but rarely need it.

John

 

[xjwmx]

A special tool to do this job is a waste of time and money.

Unless you're cursed with a bike with spokes, that is.

With mags, just lay a broom handle across the swing arm to block the rear wheel from turning. Clutch nut off and back on easy as pie.

 

[jayel]

jayel,
is it not possible using the foot on the brake and gear engaged when reassembling/torqueing the nut?

pamcopete,
smart idea, but will the drilled holes not cause any balance problems when reusing the plate?
how can one see if the needle bearing is not okej?anything else, I might as well change when having the clutch loose?

If the nut will not loose standing on the brake with the gear engaged, I might order a holdup tool at the same time as ordering the bendix gear and spring. Doesn't cost that much.

on the nut oops! I meant left to loosen, the newer thrust bearing has more needle rollers than the stock one... marp
http://shop.xs650shop.de/front_content.php?idcat=3
Germany or
http://www.xs650.biz/
Netherlands is closer to you than MikesXS USA

 

[pamcopete]

Jayel,

Balance should not be a problem, but you can always drill two more holes opposite the first two.

 

[Zombis]

I used a bunch of zip ties, a rag, impact wrench, and another set of hands to take it off. I used even more zip ties and still had a heck of a time actually torquing that thing back down. really wish i had a spare clutch plate when i was fixing my kickstarter.

Personally I cant wait to take my clutch apart again so I can replace that needle bearing and some stronger springs.

 

[pamcopete]

Zombis,

You don't need a spare clutch plate with the bolt on bracket method. Just reinstall the plate when you are finished.

 

[member3480]

You can also do it the junkyard way and lock a pair of vise grips on the basket works all the time but Pete's way is much safer and clean. Use a old plate so you always have it ready to use.

 

[marp68]

My clutch works fine, only thing it's a bit hard sometimes to change into neutral when hot and standing still, even though I have adjusted it all possible ways, both cold and warm.

Would a new needle bearing improve my clutch regarding this matter? In what other way will it improve the clutch?

 

[pamcopete]

My clutch works fine, only thing it's a bit hard sometimes to change into neutral when hot and standing still, even though I have adjusted it all possible ways, both cold and warm.

That's just the way the XS650 is....

 

[retiredgentleman]

My clutch works fine, only thing it's a bit hard sometimes to change into neutral when hot and standing still, even though I have adjusted it all possible ways, both cold and warm.

Would a new needle bearing improve my clutch regarding this matter? In what other way will it improve the clutch?

No, a new needle bearing in the clutch will not improve the "finding neutral" thing.

Here's a few things I've done:
1) I put a small piece of metal under the spring in the neutral detent. This applies more pressure so that the detent is more likely to stay in neutral and not go past it.

2) I drilled a second hole in the clutch worm gear operating arm. My stock arm had its normal hole 1.781 " from the centre of the worm gear. My new hole is 1.438" from the centre. The stock plate separation (pushrod motion) was about 0.079". The new method gives about 0.097", which makes for about 0.018" more plate separation.

3) I re-adjust the clutch lever free-play once the engine has heated up.

I can find neutral very easily. Actually, there's almost no need to find neutral with the engine running. Leave the bike in gear,shut off the engine and then select neutral.

 

[marp68]

SMart solution! Thanks for the tip

I also just shut off the engine sometimes and then find neutral. But sometimes you want to stand still with the engine still running.

But, how can I tell if I need this needle bearing then? Since, why pay the extra money for something that already may work fine as is.

Am about to order the bendix gear and spring, so I need to decide if I should order it as well.

 

[retiredgentleman]

marp68;

You should read this before ordering parts;
http://650wiki.org/index.php/12.08._Electric_start_problem_fix

IMHO, an oil mist lubricated needle roller bearing is not likely to wear out. When I had my clutch apart, I inspected the bearing and could see no indication of wear, so I re-installed it. You can use a micrometer to measure its thickness.................mine was 0.079". Also, don't forget that the OEM bearing was made in Japan and is of much higher quality than what is sold in after market now. Inspect it under a magnifying glass, measure the thickness, and if it appears OK then re-use it.

 

[pamcopete]

marp68,

You should develop the technique of shifting into neutral as you come to a stop while the bike is still moving.

 

[marp68]

Yes, that's what I alway tries to remember to do. Not an big issue, but if it could have been solved by the bearing I would have changed it.