Rotor Stuck on!

Russdog

XS650 Enthusiast
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Ok guys, I'm getting ready to put my hugh's PMA on my bike.

I got a rotor puller from mikes and the puller stripped. Got a second one and it stripped as well. Finally got 2 claw rotor puller and it grabbed the rotor off, but it left the center part!

I've been soaking it in pb blast for a day, but no ammount of prying seems to get this thing off. I'm going to take an air chizel to it to see if i can loosen it up. But this is ridiculous.

Does anybody have any tips or have had this happen to them?

(I did take the rotor bolt off before using the puller tools)
 
I've never heard of a puller stripping, let alone two. Although maybe it's possible with a MikesXS product, lol. On the other hand, I just got one from them recently and have used it several times already with no problems.

So, just how did you use these tools? Did you tighten it down and just keep tightening until it stripped? If so then that's the wrong technique for using one of these pullers. You're supposed to tighten it down and if the rotor doesn't pop off, strike the end of the puller bolt with a hammer several times. That acts sort of like an impact wrench and pops the rotor loose. You make the puller tight on there but not so tight that you're stripping it out. The hammer blows are what do the work here. Oh, and what works really well for striking the puller bolt is a dead blow hammer.
 
I don't hold the tool in high regard either. Mine cross threaded too darn easy. I'm guessing the fine threads aren't very hard which makes them easy to strip.
 
I'm sure my technique wasn't the best but i did screw them on then once it didn't start coming off I tapped it with a hammer, not a dead blow.

However, the issue seems to be that the inner medal of the rotor is not moving off of the shaft. After the two small pullers broke I said F-it I don't care about breaking the rotor and used the 2 claw puller. Which did take the wire bundle off but now there's part of the rotor still on the engine. I'm hoping the PB Blast will penetrate enough to loosen whatever the hell is going on in there and my air chisel will vibe it free.

I'm just hopin I don't break something else in the process
 
yea that's what happened. The only difference is i did take the nut off before using the puller but the core still separated.

I was able to move the stuck on spline maybe quarter-half an inch further off last night. Guess i'm going to have to keep on truckin and eventually this thing will come off.
 
Drill a series of small holes into the stuck part, 1/8"or so. Try to connect them in a line going parallel with the shaft. Not too deep to hit the crank taper. Next take a sharp cold chisel and give the series of holes a few good wacks. If you get it right it should split open and spread some. That should get er done.
 
To get that stuck center thing off, which looks like what's going on best I can tell. Get a dremel cutting wheel and go as deep and as long as you fee comfortable with. Then get a nut cracker of the type that's open on one side, and it will at least spread it enough to make it loose.
 
if you have moved it 1/4" then it should slip right off. its only a very gentle taper. Sounds like something else going on there to me ?:shrug:

Best way is as weekendrider described using 2x hammers to shock it off but you need to firmly wedge a chisel or screwdriver behind the rotor first so that it already has a pressure to push it off when you hit the rotor.

Alternatively use a 3x leg puller and when its nice and tight then hit the rotor with a hammer from the side . Should pop straight off
 
yea that's what happened. The only difference is i did take the nut off before using the puller but the core still separated.

I was able to move the stuck on spline maybe quarter-half an inch further off last night. Guess i'm going to have to keep on truckin and eventually this thing will come off.

It should have popped of by now. It is tappered and a little movement breaks it free. Maybe the key is stuck bad?
 
Thanks for all the responses guys! I'm gonna give it another go tonight. First i'm gonna try the gentle way and if that doesn't work it's getting hacked up.

I think you're right about the key though. Every other guide i've read it seems like once it starts to move it comes right off. I guess that's my luck
 
Shoot us a picture Russdog there is something unusual going on here.
next up I would carfully get hard wood wedged between the back of the rotor and the crankcase. then put the nut on the crank flush use a chunk of aluminum to protect the crank end then use a large persueder on the crank end. Big hammer fairly light hits, much better than whacking with a small hammer.
Kinda too late now but with the puller you load it up tightening the bolt. THEN rap the bolt again with a large hammer.
Grease all the puller threads with moly grease before use. My mike's puller has removed at least 10 rotors so far, some were nasty rusty laying in a ditch engines, still going strong.
True story; went to get a parts horde load up all the stuff in the attic, guy says you want the engines too? Off we go in his 4 wheel drive, bumped and thumped way out to the back forty. Handed me a shovel, I think they're in that snow drift, sure enough, dragged two engines out of there.
 
I'll try and grab a pic tonight! been real busy.

The puller seemed to thread fine and i was rapped on it a few times with a standard size claw hammer, but this sucker is on pretty good.
 
The dremel solution worked!

I just cut through on one side and hit with a chizel and it popped free. The key was not in it's hole on the rotor shaft but wedged between the shaft and the collar. That's why it was stuck.

Now I went a little too far with the rotor and there's a line scored in the rotor shaft. It's not deep at all. But figured I'd ask if i should worry about that.

thanks for all your help guys!
 
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