Simplistic wiring

mdazzo42

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Just ordered PMA, Pamco, and Capacitor for battery-less kick-start only:D. What is the most simple wiring diagram to keep headlight, LED tail and break light. Also, want to keep my Toggle ignition switch (25 Amp) would I need a Relay?

Thanks

Mike
 
mdazzo42,

If you have not already removed the stock alternator rotor, I would suggest that you keep it and install the PAMCO first so you will have the timing marks on the rotor. It is also a good idea to wire the PAMCO to a separate battery sitting on the floor, not connected to the bikes electrical system when you first fire up the engine with the PMA installed. This is done for three possibilities when you first run with the PMA:

1. The PMA will not produce any voltage on the capacitor and you will kick yourself to death trying to start the engine with no spark. :banghead:
2. The PMA will produce a very high voltage because the regulator was not installed properly. The high voltage will fry the entire electrical system, including the PAMCO. :wtf:
3. The capacitor will explode because it was wired in reverse polarity. :eek: The shrapnel from the exploding capacitor will kill the cat, :yikes: so be sure to wear protective glasses for that first start. :thumbsup:

(Actually, if the cat runs out of the garage just before you try that first start, it's because she KNOWS the capacitor is wired backwards. Cats are smart. :D )
 
Just ordered PMA, Pamco, and Capacitor for battery-less kick-start only:D. What is the most simple wiring diagram to keep headlight, LED tail and break light. Also, want to keep my Toggle ignition switch (25 Amp) would I need a Relay?
Thanks
Mike

Hi Mike and welcome,
hit the search button and ask it about simplified wiring, lotsa choices there.
I doubt that you'd need a relay to protect a 25A switch but relays are a good thing,
running 12ga or 14ga wires straight to the systems via relays will ensure brighter lights, better ignition etc. while lessening the load on the switchgear.
Mind you, you lose out on the "simple".
 
Here is one I use when I make up harnesses. Simple and easy.
I do sell starter kits. Just the wires already layed out.
 

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pamcopete,

Thank you, I will let you know how the cat makes out:laugh:

Lets hope I can remember my highschool electronics class notes and get that polarity correct. :thumbsup: with HHBs excellent install instructions with PMA I hope to get it right, but i do have an extra battery, thanks very much for the advise.


Mike
 
As Pete also said make sure you transfer over your timing marks when you install the PMA. I would also do the PAMCO and wiring first . Setup the bike get it running and check off the wiring and PAMCO. Then the PMA is only a two wire hook up Hot wire and ground and if you have timing marks transferred over your good to go.
 

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Is there a Tutorial on how to do the Pamco and PMA from scratch? I have completely disassembled and in the process of rebuilding my motor, (just waiting on my parts from Hugh). You guys are scaring me about keeping the timing marks from the original motor.

Thanks in advance.

Whoops, I think i found it on Hugh's website.
 
DaddyGCycles,

Just a small suggestion for your wiring diagram above. The 20 Amps fuse as shown serves no purpose because the capacitor is not a source of power. It would only blow if the capacitor somehow shorted out and that would leave the output of the regulator without the stabilizing effect of the capacitor which could result in very erratic voltage swings, potentially frying the electrical system. The same thing would happen if the fuse just came loose.

A better use of the fuse would be to protect the regulator and PMA in the event of a short between the regulator and the fuse box. The PMA always produces its maximum output, so a short between the regulator and the fuse box would be catastrophic as the PMA would continue to produce its maximum output as long as the engine was turning over with or without the ignition system working.

spax.jpg
 
Using a relay in a capacitor PMA setup is not possible because there is no power to operate the relay when the engine is not running.
 
Good to know Pete. Not my diagram its on one of the threads here that I use as a reference. I hook the PMA up from Hughs diagram and works every time.
 

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hey pete

i have a 1980 xs.. i installed a pma. which it has three wire coming from the stator.... i want to use the orignal rec/reg , which has three white wires,one red,one black,one brown,one green.. is its possible for this to work?..

second question i want to use a pamco igniton sys but i dont which one should i buy?...i dont want to use a mechanical advancer..

im scare of frying it durning installation.so it would be so cool if you would make a video on youtube..plzzzz of the installation..:(

thank you oscar
 
Good question never tried that. You bought a PMA without the REG/REC it comes with?
I think Pete does have a video on how to correctly install a PAMCO.
Got to look at some diagrams...You have more wires than Regular PMA
ANYBODY TRY THIS????
 
hey pete

i have a 1980 xs.. i installed a pma. which it has three wire coming from the stator.... i want to use the orignal rec/reg , which has three white wires,one red,one black,one brown,one green.. is its possible for this to work?..

Hi Oscar,
the green wire feeds the stock electromagnetic rotor, cap it off.
Black is always ground.
Red feeds DC power to the battery via a fuse and Brown goes just about everywhere.
Buggrit, you can check the wiring diagram, same as me.
 
The regulator for the stock alternator, if that is what you propose to use, is not compatible with a PMA. The PMA uses a shunt regulator that shunts the excess current from the PMA to ground. The stock regulator controls the current to the rotor winding's. Two totally different systems, like, totally....:wtf:....different...:doh:
 
Pete, I am installing another Pamco on my buddies 80 with stock TCI. I am getting conflicting answers on whether to grease the shaft or not :thumbsup::laugh:... What do I do?
 
mdazzo,

Well, we have two kinds of PAMCO's now. The original PAMCO that uses the mechanical advancer and the new E-Advancer that eliminates the mechanical advancer. Grease the original but not needed on the E-Advancer.
 
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