I have no idea what's available for rent, but before you consider DIY leakdown testing, do some reading, here and elsewhere; you can damage your bike and/or self if you screw up. Consider having it done at a reputable shop.
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Slow top end
- Thread starter ninskrillz
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ninskrillz
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Gotcha. Thanks for the heads up
One more thing--while you're in the carbies, make sure that you have 6F9 needles, type 159 P5 or P6 needle jets, and #2.5 slides. P4 needle jets can also work, but anything smaller than P4 or larger than P6 will give you trouble.
ninskrillz
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Yep it's got 6F9 needles, P6 needle jets, and #2.5 slides
ninskrillz
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Alrighty. Did some stuff tonight. Compression came out good ~155 on both cylinders. I put a battery that had an ok charge on it. It was at 12.4 so I threw it on the charger for a little while and got it up to 12.8. I was able to rev it to 7k from idle. Got it up to speed and still wasn't able to break 80. It seemed to still stumble around 5k. Don't know what to make of that. The battery is a smaller sealed unit. Felt good to hear it really scream.
ninskrillz
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Ok so I found a problem, not sure if this is the final solution or not but I tested the stator, and it was giving me erratic readings. My puller is at my folks house so I'll have to wait till tomorrow to get a good look at the stator.
After second glance it seems the previous owner "soldered" an old 3 prong connector to the stator instead of crimping a new one. Cut off his handy work and tested the leads - booyah .7 ohms. Word. I'll grab a new connector tomorrow and see if that does the trick.
After second glance it seems the previous owner "soldered" an old 3 prong connector to the stator instead of crimping a new one. Cut off his handy work and tested the leads - booyah .7 ohms. Word. I'll grab a new connector tomorrow and see if that does the trick.
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ninskrillz
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Fixed the stator connector. Achieved 7k in neutral took it around the block and was still unable to reach that rpm in gear. Still topping out between 4.5k and 5k depending on the gear. Going to get my jetting to the baseline given and see if that has any affect. Any other input on this issue would be appreciated.
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ninskrillz
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Got the jetting to the baseline griz suggested and still having trouble. The bottom end definitely brightened up with the 25 pj. The top end is definitely improved. Made it to 80. Seemingly quicker than before but the top still isn't as feisty as I feel it should be. It's kinda weird that it doesn't have the problem in neutral but does in gear. I'll gonna retorque the head and take it to have a leakdown test done tomorrow I think.
Edit - changed "at idle" to "in neutral"
Edit - changed "at idle" to "in neutral"
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ninskrillz
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Ok I have fixed the problem yet, the shop I usually go to is like a week out and I didn't feel like taking it in yet. I did figure out what exactly the trouble is. The right cylinder is misfiring at about 4.7k. It will stumble one the left cylinder till about 5.4k and the it'll kick back in but still squirrelly rpms at that point.
Nope, you haven't figured out what the problem is at all; you know there's a misfire on the right side, but you don't know the cause. You might try doing what Pete suggested and see what happens if you run off a battery with the alternator unplugged. You might also double check float level on the right side carburetor; bring it down to minimum spec (23 mm.) and see if the misfire clears up.
ninskrillz
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That's what I meant lol. When I said the trouble I meant the misfire. The cause is indeed still unknown.
I did the battery test about a week ago, which led me to find the stator connection was poor. The bike runs now the same as if it were on a battery. Stumbling and misfiring from the right cylinder. I will double check the float levels next.
Edit: Also I'll prolly end up just buying/making a leakdown tester and doing it myself. I could buy a decent tool for the what local shops would probably charge.
I did the battery test about a week ago, which led me to find the stator connection was poor. The bike runs now the same as if it were on a battery. Stumbling and misfiring from the right cylinder. I will double check the float levels next.
Edit: Also I'll prolly end up just buying/making a leakdown tester and doing it myself. I could buy a decent tool for the what local shops would probably charge.
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angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
Always good to have diagnostic tools. Its another thing to know what they are telling you. If you have a compressionn tester, you already have a poor mans leak down tester.
Sounds like your on the right track, as long as you're moving forward, your doing fine.
Sounds like your on the right track, as long as you're moving forward, your doing fine.
Since you're dealing with a misfire rather than simple lack of giddyup, you're more likely to find the grief in fuel or ignition, so I'll second Angus' suggestion to run a simple compression test and defer leakdown testing as a last step when you've exhausted other possibilities.
ninskrillz
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Compression was strong ~155 on both cylinders. I'll double check the float level again. It's set to 24mm right now I'll bring it down to 23 and see if that helps. I'll also do a search to figure out all I can test ignition wise.
