Stalling issue when coming to a stop

With the BS34s on my old SH the temp had to be below about 8 - 12 Celsius to warrant full on choke. At 20 Celsius and above no choke was needed at all. I filed 2 extra groves in the choke connector rod so I had 4 choke settings for different temperature ranges. Full choke always ran the risk of a very hefty kickback so it was usually my last option if not starting after 2 kicks.
 
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Half choke no throttle normally any day on my BS 34s but 1st wakeup after winter sleep requires full choke. Was thinking on doing the additional grooves for additional settings on the rod. I saw that in the tech section or somewheres.
 
I know it is on this forum :smoke: lol after a while I just dont remember where....i should simply bookmark items of interest but the search bar is handy too! So much reading goes on here for me tough to remember what was where. :umm:
 
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..... except you can't buy a new cable for it anymore, lol. I'm thinking/hoping maybe one from another Yamaha model with a handlebar mounted choke may work, Virago maybe. Motion Pro makes one of those.
 
..... except you can't buy a new cable for it anymore, lol. I'm thinking/hoping maybe one from another Yamaha model with a handlebar mounted choke may work, Virago maybe. Motion Pro makes one of those.

Pretty light a bicycle shop would probably make you one.
 
Look at the TTR dirt bikes. They have a choke cable to the handle bars. Also the 80's XJ bikes had a remote choke.
 
It surprises me that a lot of guys who take serious motor and electrical work in stride won't make their own cables. All it takes is a bit of Ruby Fluid or other tinner's flux, solid core 60/40 or 50/50 solder, ends, ferrules from https://www.flandersco.com ,some heat, and some practice.
 
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