Starter Delete - Gear Removal Question

yeah ill do what i can, i gotta go pick up a digital cam to keep in the garage. it seems every time i get girlfriend i lose my camera then i lose the girl lol
 
ahem...another starter delete question to keep things on topic, gents.

I'm going kick-only on my current project.

Clearly, I will be blocking off the starter input, the gears on the starter plate are coming out, and I'd like to take out the starter cross-over shaft and gears (the RH case cover gear+shaft fastened by the small plate and phillips screw, lower left of the clutch. yes, my engine case is apart). Just trying to simplify as much as possible.

My question is, do I need to block off the clutch-side shaft input of the cross-over shaft?

thanks for your time and help,
avenue.
 
I don't think so. There's already several holes in the wall between the clutch area and the gearbox. Oil flows freely between the two sections. Honestly, I don't see why you would remove it. It won't save much weight and will just lay dormant there after you pull the starter gears from both sides. If you (or the next guy) want to re-install the starter, you'll have to split the cases again. I don't see it as simplifying anything, just possibly making things harder in the future if you want a starter again.
 
avenue - any trick to pulling the crossover shaft out? I tore my 1983 engine down last night and couldn't get the plate/shaft out no matter what I tried, short of grabbing onto it with a pair of vice grips :p

Having read all this and the other thread, I'm thinking I can just leave the shaft in place and not worry about it when soda blasting the cases - I didn't know what it was until tonight. I'm clearly running kick only (like on my 1978 engine) so the crossover gears are going into the scrap pile, or maybe I'll use them as paper weights.

Thanks for everyone asking and answering questions - found this discussion through Google searching on removing this silly shaft.
 
For me, removing the screw and plate that hold the cross-over shaft required a bit of persuasion. Knowing that I'd be leaving it out, I ended up using a very small vise grip to twist it out. The screw now has a slight vise grip bite in it but is still usable if need be. Once the small plate was out of the way, the shaft came out with little effort
 
The screw is no problem - it's the plate that seems stuck. With a brass drift I could rotate it a little bit with little effort, but it's just stuck on. Likely 'suction' or whatever the technical term is for a perfectly flat surface getting stuck against another one with a thin film of oil between.

No big hurry to get it out. Will let the soda blasters have at the cases tomorrow and if the shaft stays forever, it stays. Just hope they can get the factory black paint off the engine cases.
 
aye, you've got me there. The plate came right off with a push of the finger on my engine. The plate is flat, no indexing pins or other fasteners holding it in place.

curious predicament. Was your project engine seized when you opened it up, any rust issues?
 
Nope engine turned freely and is very clean inside. 15k miles with a small hole in the right piston and bent forks. 1983.

Its getting a rephased crank etc and the transmission looks perfect.
 
I was confusing the shaft you're removing with #10-12 parts. The "spigot," as it was called earlier, is the one starter related part I left in my engine.
 
Yeah, it sure looks like it's intended to never be removed based on the other thread. Glad someone found that - not sure why I didn't stumble across it in all my googling etc. I can see with the load it carries why it's designed the way it is, and it's likely pressed into the case with temperatures etc. all optimized and with the amount of surface area it would take a ton of force to get it back out, force I wouldn't want to exert on the cast aluminum cases.
 

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