Torquing a fastener to a specification is an indirect method of measuring spring tension in the fastener' The bolts and studs nearly always function as springs. In precise measurement the specification is measured with dial indicator - as in that's how the engineers calculate the torque specification. The gasket(s), if any, also function as elastic elements with the spring, er, bolt, er, stud. Using oscilloscope and motion transducer in the test stand engineers measure how far, for example, a cylinder head bobs up and down against the cylinder top-fire deck. Not far. But it moves, and gasket/stud pair probably has a fatigue-life.
Since we know the pitch, starting from "finger tight" (contact) we can count turns (usually flats) to achieve a given spring tension...this is, for example, how the studs that hold steam turbine "bonnet" to lower case are tightened, using a "striking wrench" and a 20# (or 50#!) single-jack hammer. These have no gasket, metal to metal with linseed oil, they seal >1000 psi steam, and can run for 20+ years. Said studs can be the size of your leg. The "classical" thread lubricant is usually given at 50/50 lube oil and graphite, but assume nothing.
In heat engines the initial "spring tensions" all change immediately upon the initiation of operation in combustion mode. That's why, for example, the old ford flat-head V8's had to be warmed up in icy weather. Loading them cold often resulted in a "blown" gasket.
This is especially true in alloy engines with long steel fasteners...everything changes really fast after the fires start. Alloys expand more than pure metals, as a rule. Over tensioning cold is a common error - it results quite often in the fastener pulling the threads out of the alloy casting when the fires are lit, shortly after, obviously.
The Stainless kit mentioned above, with the need for anti-seize. Nice to know...stainless galls and ruins itself really easily. Be superduper clean with stainless and use fresh anti-seize (dust and dirt find their way into the paste). I have personally phuckedup a lot stainless! Personally, I'd avoid the stainless, or be cautious at least.
Speaking of which "Bucannan's" in Southern Cal used to offer SS spokes and nipples, and did a great job of lacing and truing and so forth. Doan know if they're still going...
Best!