Torque Wrench - Recommendation on good in/lbs Torque Wrench

estcstm3

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Torque Wrench - Recommendation on good in/lbs Torque Wrench

I bought an HF in/lb torque wrench set to 80 and stretched my sump plate bolts.... the things a POS.

Any recommendations on ones that measure low and click, this stupid one never clicked. I like dial and beam type but not sure I would be able to see them working on things like the sump plate.

Speaking of which what size and where can i get the bolts? I know they are special, designed to break.

Thanks!
 
As the XS is built in Japan, is using metric fasteners, and all torque values are specified in Nm og kpm, I do not see why you want to get an in/lb torque wrench. ISO/metric is just much easier to deal with.

Anyways, that is beside the point. For my motorcycle maintenance, I use "Teng Tools" torque wrences with 3/8" drive. One small 5-25 Nm one, basically covering M5 to M8 fasteners, and one 20-110 Nm, covering most fasteners from M8 upwards. 110 Nm may not be enough for certain high torque fasteners, like clutch and crankshaft nuts, where I just borrow my friends 1/2" Gedore torque wrench.

The sump bolts are M6 (coarse, 1 mm pitch) Lenght should be around 20 mm, but you need to double check that. I see a lot of posters mentioning that these are designed to break. I would consider replacing them with M6 studs, washers and nuts, then there should be no wear on the case threads.
 
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Hi arctic,
it don't matter if a torque wrench is graduated in inch/pounds, Centimeter/Kilograms or even thumbwidth/pennyweights so long as you have a conversion chart.
What matters is you have one that's accurate.
Common wisdom is that most torque wrenches will only work accurately in the middle 70% of their range.
 
I recommend this Craftsman clicker, almost always on sale for half the retail .....

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...p-00931423000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

They also have a 10 to 75 ft/lb version .....

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...p-00931424000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

A word of caution on these clicker types - don't store them cranked up. Turn them back down to near their minimum setting when done and for storage. I store mine a couple clicks up from the lowest setting. Another word of caution on using torque wrenches in general - use a slow and steady pull, especially on these little fasteners. Even thought the wrench clicks, it doesn't stop tightening until you stop pulling on it.
 
Thanks 5Twins - You have had good luck with these? I have read so many horror stories about the craftsman torque wrenches since they started making them in China.

I have other torque wrenchs but they are rated for much higher ft/lbs, where its usually pretty easy to feel/hear the click. That damn HF one never really clicked and I obviously overtorqued those bolts.

So is the consensus that they are 6M (1mm thread, 25MM long) hex head bolts? How do i find ones with similar shear strength? Was going to run up to my local bike shop.
 
The ones I have are many years old, not made in China. However, I just got a couple more and they seem to be working OK so far, even though they are the China ones, lol.
 
I use Armstrong torque wrenches
they have a few styles and many models
none are cheap but they work very well
in torque wrenches you get what you pay for
 
I have Snap-On torque wrenches, all 3 pawn shop buys. As mine have to be calibrated annually to use on aircraft, they are always in good repair. You can get a 30-200 inch pound Snap-On at a pawn shop for around 70 bucks here. Calibration is around 30-35 bucks for a torque wrench in the Dallas area. If you don't have a lot of heavy industry around, you may have to ship one off for calibration.
I affirm the statement that the middle 60-70 percent of range is the most accurate. Google wrench arc torque method for a suitable alternative for non critical installations.
 
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I fully realize that no one is going to pay the slightest bit of attention to what I am about to say, but I use this Craftsman beam torque wrench, currently going for $15. No fooling with settings, no worrying about how you store it, no uncertainty, and you can re-calibrate it yourself. This thing will still be working long after the apocalypse.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P
The clickers are wayyyy too complicated for me.
 
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I fully realize that no one is going to pay the slightest bit of attention to what I am about to say, but I use this Craftsman beam torque wrench, currently going for $15. No fooling with settings, no worrying about how you store it, no uncertainty, and you can re-calibrate it yourself. This thing will still be working long after the apocalypse.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P
The clickers are wayyyy too complicated for me.

How would you read that on a sump bolt upsidedown? Does it do in/lbs? Im specifically looking for a good wrench that likes the 80in range.
 
If you want to keep them accurate make sure you back them off to 0 after you use them (click type). And get them calibrated every few years.
 
How would you read that on a sump bolt upsidedown? Does it do in/lbs? Im specifically looking for a good wrench that likes the 80in range.
You're right, they no longer seem to make beam torque wrenches in the range you want.
May sound like a cop-out, but I've tightened enough fasteners the size of sump bolts that I pretty much never use a torque wrench on them any more.

DB I have one of those still had it for well over 20 years It still works I checked it against my armstrong
I've only had mine for about 7 years, and I'm pretty sure the price was more expensive then by at least about 3 or 4 dollars.
 
thanks all, yes I always back my wrench down to zero when done using. I may reconsider the craftsman as the price is defintely right, however thats how i got duped by the stupid HF....so in this case I will glady spend the money to get something accurate at that lower in/lbs.

I wish I had a better mechanics feel, but I am a second guesser...I may have it spot on but then I fiddle.
 
I have a craftsman that is 10 yrs old and I just picked up from HARBOR FREIGHT there 3/8 one and just used it on two motors and worked very good. I back mine down when done too. I always found if you need to do 60 pounds do it in steps and sometimes when you are doing motors you got to really look at the bolts. I have snapped bolts at 25 pounds that were to go to 40. Bolts stress level change from being tight and then loose again and again. You can test your bolts in a vise with double nuts if you want to check them or you can make a bolt jig for different sizes. I just last week snapped 3 bolts that were only going to be 37 pounds in a head and had to taken out and a tap ran threw the threads.
 
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