using bondo on frame

way back in the day completely smoothed a raked hardtail CB750 single cam frame. Was pretty when done, no photos survived. Of course it's a PITA.
hint; learn to control your hardener ratio, get all your gross shaping work done "in the sweet spot" about 1/2, to an hour after applying the bondo. Sureforms are grate :lmao: bondo shapers.
This would be VERY handy for frame work.
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do NOT cover any welds if there is the slightest doubt about their integrity. Did 100's of wheelies on that 750 rake job the bondo never cracked :eek:
 
I've done a couple of frames. Not full 70's molding, just smoothing out joints and welds. One you get the bondo close to the rough shape it's not a lot more sanding work than any other paint job.

Like gggGary said, trimming off the excess while the bondo is still green is a big time saver
 
Spend lots of time on the metal with a grinder flap disk before you apply any bondo.
 
Cleaning up the welds and then filling them is one way to make a frame look good.
A better way would be to have welds that were so nicely done that you'd be proud to show them off.
 
I'm glad someone brought this subject up. I have just started tearing things down to the frame with the hopes of cleaning it up more and making it super slick to go along with the paint job I will be having done on the gas tank. I spent a few months last summer shaping it up and getting it running great. The charging system really had me a wreck but eventually got that perfect. Now I'm a little nervous about tearing it apart again and getting it back together properly. I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions along the journey back!
 
Tell the Yamaha welders that joke Fred.

Well Gee Gary,
Silly me to think the OP was talking about the welds on a custom frame.
it never occurred to me that someone would want to tart up the welds a stock frame.
It's only the ugly lumps on the factory welds that keeps them strong enough, eh?
 
Pridebullys,
Roadrash is correct. Powder coating will not stick to Bondo, and it may not survive the baking process. You could try brazing material on the frame to fill in the 'pits', then grind everything smooth. Or lead solder (then you'd have a real "lead sled"). They both should be soft enough metals to shape and smooth easily, yet conduct electricity (and static charge) for powder coating.
 
There are body fillers that works with powdercoating. Eastwood carries a couple, Lab-metal and I think All-Metal. Your coater will have information on the one that they prefer.
It's not cheap like Bondo, but might be worth it if the alternative is welding and grinding.
 
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