Vacuum bleeder worth having?

[TeeCat]

Guys, I'm waiting for my front brake parts, but in preparing, I was wondering if you feel that a little $50.00-or-so vacuum bleeder would be worth having (to empty the existing system initially, and then bleed the new M/C, lines and rebuilt caliper)). No point in getting one if it's not a plus, I suppose.

TC

 

[kvanderploeg]

I love mine. It's a MityVac. Having 3 bikes I'd say it's $40 well spent. Harbor Freight has a MightyVac with a vacuum gauge for $40 and a no name for $25-$30.

Kent

 

[RFLIVES]

I have one you can barrow if you get into the Nova area on the regular. If not like the last poster said pull a 20% off coupon and head to harbor frieght and get the mighty vac

 

[TeeCat]

Thanks, guys!

Is this one a fair equivalent? I think I have a coupon and wanted to get one locally if possible. So, it doesn't have to be motorcycle-specific, huh?

Thanks for the replies!

TC

 

[wesleyonoel]

I bought a Silverline mityvac a number of years ago at Harbor Freight, interestingly enough! Nice carrying case and informative instruction booklet included. Haven't used it on my TX but have used it for other things. Works to check distributor vacuum advance units and other vacuum operated "pots". Things like vacuum operated headlight covers on my '69 Charger, heater "doors" in my Ford pickup, hydraulic clutch slave cylinders and so forth. Not sure how necessary it would be or if it would be worth the expense just to bleed the brakes on the TX though. But if you "tinker" with other devices, it might be a fun thing to have around.......................Wesley

 

[TeeCat]

Wow, Wes... that sounds really useful! I'm mainly trying to make this as easy as possible. This will be my first time working on a break in many years and I don't want to booger it.

TC

 

[kvanderploeg]

Thanks, guys!

Is this one a fair equivalent? I think I have a coupon and wanted to get one locally if possible. So, it doesn't have to be motorcycle-specific, huh?

Thanks for the replies!

TC

That one should work too. Looks a lot like the HF one as well.

Kent

 

[TeeCat]

Off to Advance Auto sometime today. It'll be great to have a seen-to, updated front brake. Done so much to this bike over the last nearly four years... it adds up when you stand back and look!

Parts should arrive in the coming week.

TC

 

[kvanderploeg]

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

Kent

 

[retiredgentleman]

I see no need to purchase any special device to bleed brakes.............save your money.

I use a syringe (left over from when I used to refill ink jet cartridges) to prefill the brake line before its connected. Probably cost less than $8.00 at a drug store.The master cylinder is not designed to pump any volume. However, once you have the line full, its very easy to do a small amount of bleeding air. Why start bleeding with a line full of air when you can start with a line full of brake fluid.

This spring, I changed over both brakes from OEM rubber lines to braided steel lines. I prefilled them and it was just a small job to bleed them.

 

[DogBunny]

retiredgentleman is right, you don't need special tools.
Another way that works is to fill the master cylinder, attach a long clear hose to the bleeder, and suck the fluid down and the air out with your mouth. Takes a couple of seconds.

If that doesn't work, fill the long clear hose with fluid, attach it to the bleeder, and blow the fluid up to the reservoir.

 

[TeeCat]

Thanks for the additional feedback, guys!

RG and DB... by the time you posted, I had already gotten a vac bleeder... it didn't break the bank though, so no biggie. It may still save me some time.

My biggest concern will be rebuilding the caliper correctly. My parts are reportedly out for delivery today. I'm contemplating taking a day (or so) off work to just take my time and try to get this done well and truly.

I'll likely have questions, though... will advise.

TC

 

[retiredgentleman]

I recommend you take the vacuum bleeder back to the store and get a refund. Use the money for something worthwhile. The brakes on these bikes have such short lines, they are ridiculously easy to bleed. If you pre-fill the lines with a syringe, there is basically no air left to bleed.

Yes, take your time when doing brakes..................its quality work you want not speed.

 

[TeeCat]

RG, just so I understand you:

After I rebuild the caliper and reinstall it, I would then install the lower hose to the caliper, then the upper hose to the lower one, right? But will the kind of syringe you're referring to inject fluid into where the topmost (that fits to the M/C) banjo fitting is? I don't have the parts yet to actually eyeball them, so I'm trying to rehearse some of this between my ears.

TC

 

[5twins]

I have the Mityvac and use it however I find it takes a combination of the vac and hand pumping to do the job. The vac is nice to initially pull the fluid through a dry line. You can also switch the hose to it's other fitting and force fluid back up into the reservoir, "back bleeding" it. This is handy for a pesky system that just won't bleed out properly for you. Sometimes a couple air bubbles are stuck right up at the MC where the line connects. This back bleeding will usually push them out into the reservoir for you.

The main short coming of the Mityvac is that it pulls or sucks too hard. You'll see all kinds of bubbles in the fluid you're drawing out and think you're getting all kinds of air out. You're not, that is air being sucked in around the loose bleed nipple. That's why I use both the vac and hand pumping. The vac to fill the system and get most of the air out initially, hand pumping for the final bleed.

 

[TeeCat]

I have the Mityvac and use it however I find it takes a combination of the vac and hand pumping to do the job. The vac is nice to initially pull the fluid through a dry line. You can also switch the hose to it's other fitting and force fluid back up into the reservoir, "back bleeding" it. This is handy for a pesky system that just won't bleed out properly for you. Sometimes a couple air bubbles are stuck right up at the MC where the line connects. This back bleeding will usually push them out into the reservoir for you.

The main short coming of the Mityvac is that it pulls or sucks too hard. You'll see all kinds of bubbles in the fluid you're drawing out and think you're getting all kinds of air out. You're not, that is air being sucked in around the loose bleed nipple. That's why I use both the vac and hand pumping. The vac to fill the system and get most of the air out initially, hand pumping for the final bleed.

twins, thanks for this! I was reading about back bleeding and air coming in around the threads. In fact, the pump's instruction manual even mentions that and recommends teflon tape or brake grease/lube as a mitigator.

My parts are due today, and I won;t have any free time til maybe Wednesday. So I think I'll mock up the new M/C and lines on the floor to make sure I have everything I need. Once I get the existing system emptied and get the caliper kit in, I'll feel a bit more confident, I think.

TC

 

[Blowtorch]

I instaled Speed bleeders on all of mine and for me it makes maintaining the fluid much easyer then a vac pump.

 

[retiredgentleman]

TeeCat;

This spring I replaced the 2 front rubber hoses with one braided steel line, but if you are using 2 hoses, its still very easy to do.

I use the syringe to prefill, with the hose horizontal. Once the hose is full of fluid, I would then place a paper towel or cloth, tightly into the banjo fitting that will be the top end (that is done to prevent air going inward and fluid running out the bottom during installation). Have a helper hold the top end of the hose while you install the lower end onto the caliper (try to hold the hose hoizontal as much as possible while installing the lower banfo fitting, if you have to have the hose more vertical, it still will be fine because you have plugged the upper fitting.) Connect the upper end of the lower hose now.

Just repeat the same procedure for the upper hose.

Fill up the M/C reservoir. Finally use a plastic hose from the bleeder screw to a bottle with some brake fluid in it, and bleed the small amount of air that remains. Top up the reservoir as required.

Very simple and you will have a rock hard brake lever in just a few minutes.

 

[Gordon]

TeeCat, I have a Vacuula profesional system for flushing out larger system's. with that said, all you really need is a good sized (20 oz.) glass jar with a top. Put a hole in the top to let a small piece of tubing through. Put about an inch of clean fluid into the jar, lid on, hose into the jar with the end submerged in the fluid, the other end on the bleeder. What I do then is open the bleeder, and let gravity do it's job. Once I have a good kinda steady stream coming out of the caliper. I close the bleeder, pump the hell out of the lever until I start to get a stiff lever, then bleed until no more air. All set to go. BTW, every time you open the bleeder, you do lose alot of the residual pressure, so pumping the lever will be done several time's. I like to use a big jar, for more time between emptying the old fluid. And glass so I can see when it's full.

 

[Jawknee21]

ha. my brakes work now but this is making me think i did something wrong. my lever changes from stiff to soft within 10 minutes of riding and i dont know what causes it. maybe i should buy one of these...