Valve grinding compound.

toglhot

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When I had my barrel rebored, I also got the guy to reseat the val es as they were badly pitted. I trusted the guy knew what he was doing and never checked them. Unfortunately, as I now know, they leak. So, I spent this morning driving around to all the motor accessory shops looking for valve grinding paste so I could do the job properly. Most didn't even know what it was. Those that do only stock course grit. So I went to the guy
reseated the valves for me. He said he didn't have any but added 'you don't need to grind the valves if it is done properly'. That's called sticking your foot in your mouth, I think.
 
Valve grinding or lapping compounds are made of various abrasive materials suspended in a medium to hold the the particles together and lubricate. When you rotate a metal surface against another metal surface with an abrasive material between, you are grinding the surfaces, removing material, so a smooth, uniform surface is achieved. It is not just for visual inspection, it provides a leak proof joint if done 'properly'.
 
When I bought my valve grinding compound many years ago, I just got it at a local auto parts store. What I didn't realize at the time was that it was a "dual" container, having both coarse and fine compound in it .....

Grinding Compound3.jpg


This turned out to be a good thing because you need both. You start with the coarse to really clean things up and get rid of the pits, then finish with the fine for a nice finish. The first time I used it, I was afraid to use the coarse and only used the fine. Well, I lapped and lapped ..... and lapped, but I never could get all the pits to disappear. I finally just gave up, lol. I mentioned this to my dealer and he's the one who told me you need to start with the coarse and finish with the fine. So, that's how I've done it ever since, and I've cleaned up some pretty bad ones with complete success.

This same CTA compound in the dual container is still available, and still has the same 2219 part number, but now the container is plastic and it's not that easy to find .....

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2219-Lapping-Compound/dp/B00FPVYYG0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pb_opt?ie=UTF8

But there are others out there as well .....

https://www.amazon.com/Chemico-Valv...fd-bc22-68e80db64d27&pd_rd_i=B006ZXZYMA&psc=1
 
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That's my problem: The outlets that do stock the compound only stock the course grade. Years ago valve grinding compound was only available with course and fine, not so now. I did manage to find some dual grade on Amazon, so, ordered that, should arrive next week.
Unfortunately, Oz is not as well serviced as other countries, something to do with population and demand I guess, not many are into ripping engines apart these days, everyone wants to be a CEO.
Very few say what grit their compounds are either, bloody annoying. One man's fine is another's course.
The Chemico one is available on ebay from the US, reasonably priced, but the postage makes it a tad more expensive. Did I say'tad', try twice the price.
 
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Properly = correctly, satisfacorily. The right way!
As opposed to
improperly = incorrectly, unsatisfactorily. The wrong way.
 
I went to Blackwoods this morning looking for valve grinding paste. Blackwoods are one of the biggest industrial equipment suppliers in Oz, they sell everything from drill bits to paper napkins, respirators to plastic cups.
Nope, haven't held any in stock for several years, but,they said they could get some in for me. 500g tub of fine grit for $50. Catch is, being mostly an industrial supplier, they order in boxes, six to a box and I'd have to buy the whole box. 3000 grams for $350. I didn't think that a very good deal, so, I bought some on Amazon Australia for $10. But when I went to the checkout, it was $17. $7 for tax. Our GST is 10 percent. There's some crooks out there in online shopping.
Funny day was had.
 
It's ready available over here.

Shit only 24 million people live here and I know of at least 3 people who own cars so valve grinds are still a thing.

And can get several grades from/between, course, fine. Might b cheaper if Amazon has it. Question could b are you going to get what you pay for.
 
I've heard of people using a coarse paint rubbing compound.
Never tried it myself so I have no idea if it works or is just more bullshit. :shrug:
 
Taking / Scraping off from a Wet grinding paper and mix with disulfide grease + oil ????
 
Toothpaste is another. Also good for polishing scratches on glasses. So, if I can't get any valve grinding paste, I'll use toothpaste and when I finally do find some valve grinding paste, I'll brush my teeth with it.
 
Cutting the seat is proper.
Lapping is for visual inspection of contact only.
NOT for grinding.

cliff
I agree, it's nice to have a cutter and in a perfect world we all would have one.
When push comes to shove, a nice lapping job does just fine - with due attention paid to seat / valve condition / recession.
 
I would think so as the 8mm diameter 650 valve stem is a pretty common size.
 
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