What to replace when changing Fork Tubes

[Misterobotto]

Hey Guys,

So I just got some stock length fork tubes to replace the +3 or +4's that are currently on there. I was just wondering if there was anything else I should consider replacing while I'm at it.

Also, I am currently looking into getting a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift... any opinions on those?

As an aside... if anyone is interested in the lengthened tubes I have on there now, lemme know. I'll be out of town for a few weeks, but I should be doing the swap relatively soon. They are in great shape, 35mm...

Wes

 

[blackbetty]

Replace the fork seals, the fork cap o-rings, and the copper damper bolt sealing washers. Make sure not to lose the circlip and washer that holds the fork seals in place, and I recommend removing the old fork seals destructively with a pair of dikes.....just grab em from the inside and twist em out. Prying them out w a screwdriver can damage the lower.

Also a good time to replace the dust boots / gaiters if they're worn out.

Oh, and fork oil. Replace that too

 

[Misterobotto]

Haha, thanks a lot for the information. Sounds like I'll be adding a few things to my order at Mikesxs...

It's peanut oil for forks right?

 

[5twins]

I don't change any of that stuff unless it's leaking. About all I've ever needed to change was an occasional fork seal. My 650 needed one, that's right, one. Five years later it's still fine with one replacement and one original. I do recommend you thoroughly clean the insides of the tubes, especially the lowers. The bottom of the lowers is usually full of sludge.

 

[Misterobotto]

Awesome, thanks a lot. The forks that are currently on there are in really good condition, so I doubt any of that stuff is bad. I guess I'll look at what some of that stuff costs and see if it's worth the piece of mind to have some new rubber in there.

Thanks again.

 

[5twins]

Use about 7 ounces of fork oil instead of the recommended just under 6. The forks will work better and dive much less under braking.

I have the HF lift table if that's the one you're referring to and I just love it. For a small lift, I have the Black Jack 1000. This is a compact screw jack lift (no hydraulics) made for cycles and ATVs and designed to use on a table lift.

 

[Gordon]

Plus one on the HF table lift. I got one, and it is sooo much easier to work on then the small jack's. The small jack's are good, but getting the bike up waist high certainly save's the back. I got lucky, had a coupon for $299. If you do get one, I suggest you also get the front tire rack, as the one that come's on it is about as useful as tit's on a bull.

 

[Misterobotto]

I was actually talking about this one...

I'll probably hold off on a table lift until I have a legitimate garage.

I'll likely go ahead and replace some of the rubber in the fork tubes... I may just be crazy, but I feel like the front end pulls a bit when I brake... Could just be the oil levels, but better safe than sorry.

 

[AussieHard]

Use about 7 ounces of fork oil instead of the recommended just under 6. The forks will work better and dive much less under braking.

I have the HF lift table if that's the one you're referring to and I just love it. For a small lift, I have the Black Jack 1000. This is a compact screw jack lift (no hydraulics) made for cycles and ATVs and designed to use on a table lift.

7oz of what grade? 10w, 15w?

 

[5twins]

'77 specs 20wt., '78 and newer spec 10wt. '77 was the 1st year of the 35mm forks and maybe Yamaha got the oil weight wrong, correcting that error in '78. I just modified the damper rods on a spare set of forks and now with the larger holes, the 10wt. does feel a bit light. I'm going to try some thicker oil I think.

 

[AussieHard]

so 7oz of 15wt in a 74 with 34mm forks would do the job???

 

[5twins]

All my experience is with the newer 35mm forks and the info I gave is for them. I don't know about the 34mm ones. The concept probably holds true - slightly more oil will work better. I just can't give you the amount or weight because I've never worked with them. I would find out what was stock, add that amount and see how far from the tube top that put the level. Then I would experiment with more but make sure the level ends up no less than 6" from the top.

 

[Gordon]

Twins has got it again! Great info, and the weight depend's on your weight, your ride height, and the type of riding you will be doing mostly. Heavier oil equals a harder, less forgiving ride. Too lite and a easy, soft and bouncy ride. Not real 'bouncy', but easier movement. I use the Spectro fork oil from any motercycle shop. Good stuff, and pretty reasonalble in price.

 

[AussieHard]

If tubes are dry it would be reasonable to assume all seals, o-rings etc will need replacing

 

[Gordon]

Yes, that would be presumeable. If they are coming apart, I would do the seal's just because of the work involved. BTW, I did purchase the imitation emulator's from Mike's, and they make a big difference, esp. when braking hard. Less nose dive.

 

[gggGary]

The table lifts are useless, useless I tell you. All they do is take up space and showcase the bike I want to work on while I walk around it and and continue to bend over the bike I am working on! The one time I had the bike I was working on up on the lift table it was a joy. The lift you linked to looks fine, I have one from the local fleet store and it does a good job. If I wasn't such a slacker I'd make some adapters so it fits the XS650 frame properly.

 

[5twins]

I'm afraid my table lift has suffered the same fate. A long term "project" bike resides on it and I'm back to servicing the others on my knees, lol. Guess I need two, lol.