Which clutch parts do I need?

freddy3

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I need to replace the OEM clutch in my '72 XS2 (never replaced the clutch before) and I'm confused as to which parts I need to order from MikesXS.com's Clutch parts page?
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I've searched through the archives, but I couldn't find a clear answer, so I'm hoping someone can give me a bit of direction.

The bike is all stock (and I'm trying to keep it that way) and I was expecting to find a "Clutch kit for a 1972 XS2" or something like that. But, instead, they sell each component separately and I'm confused as to what parts I need to replace the clutch?

For starters, does the OEM clutch have 5 or 6 plates?
 
Your clutch plates are different than the newer ones. Yours are thicker. Mike's doesn't sell them but claims you can use the new ones by adding an additional plate. I also heard this doesn't work very well. Yamaha clutch plates are usually very robust but the springs go bad (get weak) all the time. Usually new springs are all you need.
 
Thanks, All for your input.

5twins: If the OEM plates aren't available, it sounds like I've no choice but to go with one of the new plates and add the additional plate (without the OEM o-ring separators?).

MikesXS lists two different part numbers for their friction plates at the top of the page. Other than the first one being made in Japan and costing $4 more than the second plate, the descriptions appear the same. Any idea which I should use or if there's a benefit either way?
 
Are you sure you need plates? Like I said, they don't wear out usually. Take it apart and measure the ones you have now.
 
Oh, so I just replace the friction plates and can, presuming they're not worn, re-use the steel plates? If so, do you have a recommendation between the two sets of friction plates listed on the MikeXS link?
 
No, you don't replace any of the plates unless they're worn below the limit. Just replace the springs. Take my word for it, practically every old wet clutched Jap bike on the planet needs this. I'm about to put a second set in mine. I went with Mike's no-name springs originally and well, they didn't last long, several years and about 10K miles. I'm going to install better brand name springs this time (Vesrahs from 650Central). Don't waste your money on any of Mike's clutch parts, better stuff is available from 650Central.
 
Did you see these Versah springs and plates on MikesXS site? The model listing for these doesn't include my XS2, but do you know if these the same as the Versahs sold on 650Central?

If they aren't, should I get the #JSUD61-4201 (set of 6) Versah springs from 650Central. I'm still confused as to which plates to get from MikesXS - they list 3, including the Versahs (which don't list the XS2)?
 
Yes, I saw the Vesrah clutch parts on Mikes but they're not for our 650s, they're for the XS400. As I said, if you want quality brand name 650 clutch parts, you'll need to go to 650Central. For a basically stock 650, the #JSUD61-4201 Vesrah springs will be fine. If your motor was heavily modded or you had the 750 kit installed, you might need one of the stronger spring sets 3M offers.

Your clutch uses 6 friction plates @ 3.5mm thick. The newer clutches use plates that are only 3mm thick. That's why an additional new plate is required if you do that swap. Clutch plates are expensive. Measure the thickness of the ones you have. Chances are, they are fine and all you need to replace are the springs.
 
As I said, if you want quality brand name 650 clutch parts, you'll need to go to 650Central. For a basically stock 650, the #JSUD61-4201 Vesrah springs will be fine. If your motor was heavily modded or you had the 750 kit installed, you might need one of the stronger spring sets 3M offers.
Okay, but I have a question re the springs: The springs on 650Central, including the Versahs, are described as being some-percentage stronger than stock. Does this mean the clutch handlebar grip will be stiffer or does it refer to a difference in clutch engagement/disengagement, with stiffer springs improving both operations?

Also, I don't see any friction plates on 650Central for models prior to '74, so should I get the first set listed on MikesXS (Part #39-1134), which are described as "From Japan, OEM type with Kevlar"?


Your clutch uses 6 friction plates @ 3.5mm thick. The newer clutches use plates that are only 3mm thick. That's why an additional new plate is required if you do that swap.
What's confusing is: If the stock clutch consists of 6 friction and 5 steel plates and I'm adding one additional friction plate (for a total of 7 friction & 5 steel), won't I need to install 1 additional steel plate to keep them alternating? Or do I place the additional friction plate against the last friction plate (without a steel plate between them)?


Measure the thickness of the ones you have. Chances are, they are fine and all you need to replace are the springs.
Got it.
Thank you!
 
Oh man
5twins is telling what you should get and you are not listening
FORGET THE PLATES
just get the springs
and I dont know how much of a differant feel you will get at the clutch handle
 
Dennis: Sorry, but I must've misunderstood someone here. I'm running the OEM clutch on a 1972 bike with nearly 50,000 miles on it. I've got no clutch function left and the cable's adjusted all the way. Doesn't that mean the friction plates are worn out?

While I've never replaced a bike clutch, I've done a number of cars and when the clutch function's this far gone, it means the friction plates are worn out. If I just replace the spring, aren't I going to end up with the same problem (no clutch function)?
 
Let's presume I need friction plates. Which set from 650Central fit the '72 XS2?

Freddy, save yourself a lot of grief and call Mike at 650 Central. The guy is very knowlegable and loves the one-on-one action of a phone call. He will answer your questions, recommend the proper parts and you'll be on your way.
 
pregrid: That works for me. Many thanks and sorry for all the silly questions.
 
please discribe what you mean by "no clutch function" you may not need any parts. cheers

Posted via Mobile
 
freddy3, boats.net has them listed as a stocked part.
Anyone have an idea as to why the middle two plates have different #'s?
The schematic calls for 4(outside ones) of one number and the two in the middle a different number.
Jus wonderin.......
 
please discribe what you mean by "no clutch function" you may not need any parts. cheersPosted via Mobile
Often, upon take-off or acceleration, the RPMs increase without the bike following suit. Then, slowly, the bike speed'll creep up. And, again, the cable (which was recently replaced, but had no effect on the slippage) adjuster's been adjusted all the way. On four wheels, that's a text book description of a worn/slipping clutch and I doubt it's any different on two wheels.

freddy3, boats.net has them listed as a stocked part.
Anyone have an idea as to why the middle two plates have different #'s?
The schematic calls for 4(outside ones) of one number and the two in the middle a different number.Jus wonderin.......
Great....just when I thought I was getting somewhere, another wrinkle...
 
Dollar for your donut says 3M will know if you call him.`
But I hate to call him just to ask. Maybe someone else will tell us.
 
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