Wire brake switch front and back and nissin master brake.

[vsop-dk]

Hi, ive searched the forum and couldn't find an answer to this, so ill post the question, hoping someone can help me find out.

The small brake switch, that gets activated once you step on the foot brake pedal and or pull the handlebar brake, has two wire sockets.

What goes where? I mean I put one lead to the front handlebar master and then one wire from handlebar master to the brake switch and then from the tail light another wire goes into the brake switch.

Just where does the wire go to, one input or output on the brake switch.?

Second on the handlebar brake there are two sockets as it's a nissin brake, it fits two spades and no indication whats in and whats out, does someone know this I would be thanksfull

Cheers.

 

[wherearewe]

The switches simply break the circuit i'd say. Ground will complete after the light. So for example, the front switch, you would run power from your fuse box to one socket then on out the other socket off to your light. Here is an example diagram...

 

[vsop-dk]

Sweet, by front switch you mean the handlebar brake lever right? and from there the out goes to the brake switch with the spring that gets pulled once i step on my brake pedal?

Thanks for rapid response Thanks

 

[wherearewe]

Yeah i mean the front lever.

The idea is any time you use either brake, the switch closes and completes the circuit through the 'brake on' bulb. If you feed directly into the rear switch from the front switch, then your brake light wouldn't work unless you have both switches closed. You would be creating a series of switches which you don't want.

I think you would need to run the circuit from the front lever down stream from the rear brake switch, and have them re-connect before the brake light. I'm no expert though.

If you look on the example i posted, the feed splits into 2, feeds each switch then reconnects before the light. There is also a constant feed that bypasses the switch for the running light. If your light is like mine, you will have 3 wires coming from it. One running light, one for the 'brake on' bulb and one for the ground. So connect the running light to the constant feed (via your lights on/off switch if thats what your doing), the 'brake on' light after the switches, then ground to ground.

 

[vsop-dk]

Thanks wherearewe, it helped me sort the wirering. Got it working, thanks for the hint the right way. Ive used a guillutine if thats whats it called to wire two wires together or hook another wire onto existing and made it like that.

 

[AleXS]

Hi all,
First of all, I wish the best 2021 to everyone, hoping it won't be worse as everybody encountered in 2020.
Secundly, sorry I did not give any news for a long time.
I've been very busy and as I already said, the bike is not at home and I had to deal with curfew and lockdown.
As you will certainly remember, I decided to have a new dashboard corresponding to the 1976 C...
I got a quite nice one but the wires did not match with the existing and the only diagrams I found on the web were "B" and "D" !
So I began to identify what I could, trying to get my fingers in the headlight bowl.
Due to the lack of space, I considered getting the headlight bowl off, in order to work properly.
The problem then was : "as I will connect all the wires, how will I be able to recognize them as putting the bowl on the bike again ?"
Gasp...
The only way I found was to take my Dymo out of the office...
And labelling and labelling again, the wires "in" and the wires "out".
After a lot of Saturdays from 2 pm to 6 pm (blackout and curfew), yesterday was the day.
Everything is working !
When I bought the bike, the front break switch was missing.
I ordered it in the Nederlands and unfortunately, the two wires (see picture please) do not match with anything present (except the black one I guess to be connected to ground/earth).
Could someone explain me how to connect?
I tried to connect the Y/G wire to the yellow wire coming from the tail light (it explains the tiny cut on the wire), but it did not work (perhaps I did not connect all the other wires, especially the black and brown, before trying to connect) .
Cheers.

 

[AleXS]

Hi,
I think I found in various posts, what I was looking for.
Hope to send you a nice picture within a couple of days.
A nice week-end to everyone.

 

[Paul Sutton]

I think DYNO has water proof labels so this would work OK using your method. That Yellow/Green wire with the break in the insulation could be fixed with heat shrink threaded over the bullet connector.

Note for the future: An alternative is to use clear heat shrink if you can get it onto the wire past the connectors. You slip the heat shrink on then insert a label inside the heat shrink then apply heat. This method is easier to do when working with new wiring when the connectors have not yet been crimped on.

 

[AleXS]

Thanks a lot Paul. I confirm the label is made of plastic so it will last (until a further intervention, but I hope not).
And you're right with the clear heat shrink over the label : this is what I should have done, so maybe next time.
Sorry but I do not understand when you write : "That Yellow/Green wire with the break in the insulation could be fixed with heat shrink threaded over the bullet connector."
I know what a bullet connector is, but over which one should I fix the Y/G wire ?

 

[Paul Sutton]

In your photo you are holding two wires. The right wire looks to be Yellow with a Green stripe. About 1cm from the blue heat shrink it looks like the insulation is cut:

If you put heat shrink over then less likely to break later on from vibration.

 

[AleXS]

OK !
I cut the wire myself in order to put a blue connector like the one you see on the picture above, but I finally did not find the wire I had to connect with the Y/G and this is why I first asked.
I will fix the wire as you recommand.

 

[AleXS]

Just for you, Paul.
Cheers.

 

[Paul Sutton]

Of course I was only joking about that possibility of some vibration....

 

[AleXS]

Maybe, but there is no reason to leave a wire naked, especially during winter