xs Time Machine- sat for 20yr.

[greybeard2009]

I found a 1980 xs650 sp. that has been stored in the living room after the husband passed. It is super low miles absolutely orig. I can turn a wrench but ( had over 50 bikes) I have never had a bike in this good shape that has been idle this long. I already had the carbs soaking, they had been drained but varnish was still there and floats were "frozen" in open position. Bike would start and idle but poured gas out carb. Rebuild kits are ordered for them. For now I want to leave it as stock as possible, I have ordered factory style air and oil filters and tires-dry rot. Tank is spotless, I expect to change oil, flush brakes. Will seals or gasket be too dry in this thing after setting so long and leak? As for brakes, pads are dragging on disc now, masters were stuck but lever and pedal move now, don't seem to be exerting any extra pressure on pads. I expect to rebuild masters after I verify the piston diameter. I hope calipers are not pitted. I guess I will just have to take them off and dismantle to see. Any thing else I need to be watching for?
Thanks in advance!

 

[Jim]

Welcome to the forum!!
There's a wake-up article in the tech section. Here it is.
Got some pics of your bike. We like pics here.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Ditto on the pictures. There’s a possibility that you’ll get away with flushing the brakes with fresh fluid. Realistically, it would be best to replace the brake lines. OEM stated they needed replacement every four years. So, since you’re equipped with the skill, it’s best to rebuild the brakes and be done with it.
Welcome to the virtual XS650 barroom.

 

[5twins]

Yes, braided stainless brake lines are dirt cheap on eBay now (less than $10 each) so it's a no-brainer to replace the rubber lines. Dunking the whole carb in carb cleaner to soak isn't recommended because there are little rubber seals on the ends of the throttle butterfly shafts. Carb cleaner can destroy them.

 

[greybeard2009]

Forgot about the lines, thanks, should have mentioned I hang carbs with just bottoms in fluid, lots of carbs have rubber/plastic in the top half, Thanks!

 

[650Skull]

Check the master cylinder reservoir on the handle bar and make sure the return hole isn't blocked. It is real small and half hidden to the left side of the bottom of the reservoir when sitting on the bike

 

[X77S]

I opted to reseal mine, but it was already a leaker. Chances are yours will soon be too. I bought an 04 sportster in 2012 that had very few miles. 500 miles later it leaked everywhere but the case halves.

 

[greybeard2009]

That was my biggest fear. If I have to split cases it is going to get rephased.

 

[greybeard2009]

 

[Jim]

Nice!!

 

[Mailman]

Your bike looks to be in very good condition! Congratulations, it ought to be a nice bike.

 

[greybeard2009]

Your bike looks to be in very good condition! Congratulations, it ought to be a nice bike.

Yea. No scratches in tank or side covers, unlike any I had before

 

[Jim]

Here's my '80 SG. Took a year and a half to get it lookin' like this. Right out the gate... yours is more than halfway there.

 

[650Skull]

I expect to rebuild masters after I verify the piston diameter. I hope calipers are not pitted. I guess I will just have to take them off and dismantle to see. Any thing else I need to be watching for?
Thanks in advance!

How much money is spent on the bike is up to you. What i mean by that, is if parts are thought to be bad and new stuff is ordered, then posting up what your doing and asking after, you may find that the considered opinion is the parts replaced may have been usable.

Caliper pistons can look shot when they have some pitting on them. As long as the pitting doesn't contact the seals then reusing won't be dangerous or cause a leaking seal.

Always ask before buying, there is more than one supplier out there and sometimes the cheapest or the obvious, may not always be the best option.

Bike looks good. With such low miles the chances are most of the rubber will be ok. May wear a bit faster, (gauge and some other damper rubber), due to the age and maybe not having the elasticity of new rubbers.

 

[5twins]

The hydraulic brake system on these is pretty robust. I've renovated several and didn't have to replace any seals, just thoroughly clean the component. As you learn more about the bike and the braking system in particular, you'll find that many of us swap on a slightly smaller front MC. This gives better "feel" and modulation. The stock size Yamaha chose is a bit too big for best "feel". Personally, I shop eBay for nice used units off other Yamahas. The advantage to this is they will accept your stock reverse thread mirror, the brake light switch, and the lever.

 

[Jan_P]

Will seals or gasket be too dry in this thing after setting so long and leak?

AS I read it the storage has been good
I don't think gaskets are sensitive for that ..some re tightening will do it .
It also depends on what mileage there is.
Other bikes from that time period don't like to sit for a while .If stored after a short while .. Mainly Valve stem seals leaking and producing smoke.
I would assume one or two seals would need replacement and I personally would not be in a hurry. to do it.
That happens for everyone
You have owned many bikes so You are familiar with how it can look under a bike.

Personally I would do the normal upstart routines .And service.. I would also go for a gentle startup period.As for a brand new bike
Short distances to begin with no Hot Rodding no Revving ..Quick oil changes
Some electrical small problems would be normal But since it has been stored perfectly bare darkness and cool
This seems as a fine bike Who would store a seized engine in the Living room ??

I would touch the cylinder head bolts :Check So they are not loose Is there a leak already on the left side ???
Other here would loosen them and there is a routine
I would check that again after getting some Heat cycles and miles on the Clock

All in all if the seals have gotten oil on them ( Not to low mileage ) And carefully starting up
My first assumption would be no major problems. One or two and perhaps a little leaking that can get better.

 

[xjwmx]

Chances are good it doesn't need the carb kit and that the parts in the kit aren't as good as original. i think plastic floats started in '81, so your brass floats might need replacing. Needle and seat probably just need a good cleaning. Jets probably just need cleaning. If you do need new parts, they're probably parts not included in the kits... Don't know if your float pins are like an '81 but if they are, get a pair of small sharp diagonal cutters and get them between the "nail head" and the post and squeeze. It won't cut the pin but will wedge it out so you don't have to bang it and risk cracking a post off

 

[Jan_P]

I have an 80
If I remember right i last time Put a small flat screwdriver behind the " Nail Head " and carefully twisted
With the right one inserting it there can loosen it
I Recall using a soft punch and a small hammer from the other side.
A small nail ground flat at the nose.
It did work good ..but I am not saying it is the best method.
Hammer and carburetors can be something that makes the hair on the neck .
Stand up on the Carburetor experts.
And blood pressure increase
We are not talking full swings with a large hammer But gentle taps with a very small one.
Used with care
It works for me.

 

[xjwmx]

That was my biggest fear. If I have to split cases it is going to get rephased.

That was hyped on here, along with permanent magnet generators, by a super salesman. There's nothing to be gained by either (as far as I'm concerned), but it's your toy. But since you're new here, take the enthusiasm you see here for them with a grain of salt, especially since you have a time machine example

 

[5twins]

Yes, I consider a rephase nothing but a waste of money. The motor is perfectly fine the way it is. Does it vibrate? Well, sure, but keep it in a good state of tune and it's OK, not excessive. You know you're riding a motorcycle, lol. And gearing it up slightly will make it even smoother at cruising speeds. With your 16" rear wheel, changing the stock 34T sprocket to a 32T is ideal. This isn't something you need do immediately, just keep it in mind when it comes time to replace the sprocket. In fact, it's probably better you get a feel for the bike the way it is stock.