360 is one of the things I like best about the XS650!
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xs Time Machine- sat for 20yr.
- Thread starter greybeard2009
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- xs brakes
As far as the seals go, I'd say just run it to see what it needs. I did eventually replace quite a few on my '78, but not all of them. Some are still the originals and working fine (crank, cam). You will most likely need to replace the clutch pushrod seal, it's a very common leaker on these. The countershaft seal can be a big leaker too but 9 times out of 10, the seal is fine, the sprocket nut has just come loose. You need to make that nut very tight, like 90 to 95 ft/lbs tight.
A bit more on that clutch pushrod seal. There is a bushing behind the seal that the rod passes through to keep it steady, and that's often worn as well. Early models used one long pushrod but your later one switched to 2 shorter rods with a ball between them. The early style long rod works better. It flexes side to side less so wears the seal and bushing less. It's also said to give better clutch action or "feel". So, the best chance at sealing up that area and having it last is to replace the seal, the bushing, and switch to the long one piece rod. Here's some details, see post #64 .....
http://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4
As far as acquiring a replacement long rod goes, I can't recommend the aftermarket ones. It seems some aren't hardened enough .....
Instead, search eBay for an original. They come up all the time and can usually be had for the same price, many times even less, than the repops.
A bit more on that clutch pushrod seal. There is a bushing behind the seal that the rod passes through to keep it steady, and that's often worn as well. Early models used one long pushrod but your later one switched to 2 shorter rods with a ball between them. The early style long rod works better. It flexes side to side less so wears the seal and bushing less. It's also said to give better clutch action or "feel". So, the best chance at sealing up that area and having it last is to replace the seal, the bushing, and switch to the long one piece rod. Here's some details, see post #64 .....
http://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4
As far as acquiring a replacement long rod goes, I can't recommend the aftermarket ones. It seems some aren't hardened enough .....
Instead, search eBay for an original. They come up all the time and can usually be had for the same price, many times even less, than the repops.
greybeard2009
XS650 Member
some updated pics and updated problems. pics are carbs as I found them, some varnish but not horrible, one slide was covered, one clean, oil filter shield I made after seeing some on this site, started the clean-up process as I like minimalized bike, slightly altered seat line to follow frame/tank line.
Problem is carbs are still not "right' after rebuild. Kits were from "K&L products" and their brake parts were fine and accurate. The carb kits had fuel mixture screws that were not right for this carb, the slide needle was a different code, all other parts were good as far as matching the OEM. I replaced the seat and valve, including screen, main and pilot. Mains are 132.5, pilots are 42.5, air pilot 135- no new supplied, both fuel mix screws were at 3/4 turn out, emulsion tube is 270 Y-O, OEM slide needle was 5HX12, new is Y576. length is the same, I didn't try to measure the taper points. only one clip ring, plastic washer, tit down under the clip, metal washer and spring on top of clip. One float had 3 cracks in it?! Cleaned and soldered that with iron, tested under water- no bubbles, other float was good. Set floats to 27mm as specified, had to level the set that was cracked, other side was level and at 27 already. Bike would start and idle when I looked at it but it poured gas out the air intake side as it ran- floats were stuck. Now it starts right up, no choke but stumbles at anything just above idle. I searched for vac leaks and found old intakes were cracked, replaced with new (K&L) from Japan., no more RPM change when sprayed with carb cleaner. still falters above idle, giving more throttle makes right side force a lot of raw fuel out OEM pipe, left side does not. I failed to check temps on pipes but I did put new plugs in just to feel better about them, old plugs fired blue spark, but they are 40 yr old. Bike is of course electronic ignition, no points or advance plate. If i raise the slide with my finger and hold a finger over the curved slot at the top of the intake side of carbs, they will very slowly fall back down, i had read they should not fall at all? If you only push them up, they spring back down smoothly. I have tuned some CV carbs on Suzukis but I prefer round slides. I wanted to keep this XS as stock as possible. Let me know if I need to supply more pics or more info.
Thanks in advance for any tips, tricks or suggestions.
Problem is carbs are still not "right' after rebuild. Kits were from "K&L products" and their brake parts were fine and accurate. The carb kits had fuel mixture screws that were not right for this carb, the slide needle was a different code, all other parts were good as far as matching the OEM. I replaced the seat and valve, including screen, main and pilot. Mains are 132.5, pilots are 42.5, air pilot 135- no new supplied, both fuel mix screws were at 3/4 turn out, emulsion tube is 270 Y-O, OEM slide needle was 5HX12, new is Y576. length is the same, I didn't try to measure the taper points. only one clip ring, plastic washer, tit down under the clip, metal washer and spring on top of clip. One float had 3 cracks in it?! Cleaned and soldered that with iron, tested under water- no bubbles, other float was good. Set floats to 27mm as specified, had to level the set that was cracked, other side was level and at 27 already. Bike would start and idle when I looked at it but it poured gas out the air intake side as it ran- floats were stuck. Now it starts right up, no choke but stumbles at anything just above idle. I searched for vac leaks and found old intakes were cracked, replaced with new (K&L) from Japan., no more RPM change when sprayed with carb cleaner. still falters above idle, giving more throttle makes right side force a lot of raw fuel out OEM pipe, left side does not. I failed to check temps on pipes but I did put new plugs in just to feel better about them, old plugs fired blue spark, but they are 40 yr old. Bike is of course electronic ignition, no points or advance plate. If i raise the slide with my finger and hold a finger over the curved slot at the top of the intake side of carbs, they will very slowly fall back down, i had read they should not fall at all? If you only push them up, they spring back down smoothly. I have tuned some CV carbs on Suzukis but I prefer round slides. I wanted to keep this XS as stock as possible. Let me know if I need to supply more pics or more info.
Thanks in advance for any tips, tricks or suggestions.
Attachments
I am no carburetor expert ..but the times I have opened the top
taken the slide out for inspection of membrane
I always wipe it clean in the carburetor and the outer of the slide
So it don't stick perhaps even at times given it some thin chemical getting it going
which can lead to dirt stick so might not be best practice
So the one at the picture I would have cleaned up afraid of it getting sticky with heat and new fuel on it
Fuel flooding has for me been the float valve not working .
Sometimes if I hit the bowl outside gently with the wooden handle of a hammer or screwdriver handle it stops and after a while works
But again I am not that good at carburetors
taken the slide out for inspection of membrane
I always wipe it clean in the carburetor and the outer of the slide
So it don't stick perhaps even at times given it some thin chemical getting it going
which can lead to dirt stick so might not be best practice
So the one at the picture I would have cleaned up afraid of it getting sticky with heat and new fuel on it
Fuel flooding has for me been the float valve not working .
Sometimes if I hit the bowl outside gently with the wooden handle of a hammer or screwdriver handle it stops and after a while works
But again I am not that good at carburetors
greybeard2009
XS650 Member
best price I could find on brake lines was $88 for a pair, one piece front and rear, got them installed.
greybeard2009
XS650 Member
JanP, no flooding since the rebuild. I leave the petcock to the " on " position, with this year model I am told that is best as "Pri" will flow freely without motor running. That dirty slide was as I bought it, yes it got cleaned up along with all jets. My son works at auto parts store, we buy brake and carb cleaner by the case and ain't afraid to use it
Your mix screw has a tiny o-ring on the bottom of it and that needs to be in good shape for it to work properly. Sometimes it remains stuck in the carb when you remove the mix screw and you need to "fish" it out with a little bent wire.
On a stock bike with these BS34s, they like the mix screws open quite a bit, like 3 to 3.5 turns. If you still have them closed down to 3/4 turn, that may be causing the off idle stumbling and rough transition into the midrange.
On a stock bike with these BS34s, they like the mix screws open quite a bit, like 3 to 3.5 turns. If you still have them closed down to 3/4 turn, that may be causing the off idle stumbling and rough transition into the midrange.
