Thats a super nice looking original, they sure do bring big money these days. All the hot Japanese two strokes do these days.
These people make me laugh. They are asking a crazy amount of money for a bike and say it needs work. Carb turn, oil pump set up and break in rings. If I were selling this at top dollar I’d make sure it was 100% before selling. Found another one….Wow!! Nice one... at a crazy price too. Prolly realistic nowadays... but still crazy.
This made me laugh..... "But - it runs great now and will need time for the new piston and rings to seat."
Here's the drill on those engines... Putter around town for about 20min... drive out to the nearest country road and let here have her head. If the engines tight, and you're a lightweight like me, you should see a ton. Turn around, do it again then putter back home and viola... the rings are seated.
Was prolly one of the best twin leading shoe drums ever made too. Damn near as powerful as the later RD disc.the R5’s had a drum.
Are the twin leading shoe brakes difficult to set up?Was prolly one of the best twin leading shoe drums ever made too. Damn near as powerful as the later RD disc.
Not really... although it's best done with 2 people. With new shoes in.... disconnect one of the clevis pins holding the tie rod. One guy pushes the rear lever 'till the rear of the shoes contact the drum. The other guy pulls the brake lever (handle) so the front lever (shoes) make contact. Then just adjust the tie rod until the clevis pin drops back in. Tighten everything back up, adjust at the handlebars for a good feel and done.Are the twin leading shoe brakes difficult to set up?
Sounds pretty straight forward. I guess many don’t know the proper procedure and don’t get it right. Does the linkage allow the shoes to equalize pressure or is it all done at the tie rod adjustment?Not really... although it's best done with 2 people. With new shoes in.... disconnect one of the clevis pins holding the tie rod. One guy pushes the rear lever 'till the rear of the shoes contact the drum. The other guy pulls the brake lever (handle) so the front lever (shoes) make contact. Then just adjust the tie rod until the clevis pin drops back in. Tighten everything back up, adjust at the handlebars for a good feel and done.
Done at the tie rod. After that the shoes will bed themselves in evenly.Sounds pretty straight forward. I guess many don’t know the proper procedure and don’t get it right. Does the linkage allow the shoes to equalize pressure or is it all done at the tie rod adjustment?
Iirc that was the same book procedure for the R5. I like my way better. Here's why.... The book way has you spreading the arms apart until the shoes touch. In other words, one arm clockwise and the other counter-clockwise. But that's not the way they work. In use, they both rotate counter-clockwise. It always seemed counterintuitive to me to take out the slack (play) by spreading 'em apart when you're more concerned with the slack (play) in the direction they move in actual operation.View attachment 211916View attachment 211917
What the factory said about setting the XS1 front drum in 1969. I've followed this procedure with new shoes installed and after a bit of "bedding in" the shoes was happy with the results. MM from vintage brakes had a few nits to pick with Yamaha about the linkage geometry....
Like early rear brake cams the cam on these has a rather sharp "break" On WJL I rounded that edge to somewhat match the later rear drum cam profile. I felt that was an improvement.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/wjl-aka-wrenchjohns-legacy-70-xs1-in-ggggarys-hands.55909/post-648526
I learned that as a kid at a Kawasaki dealership. Used the same procedure on Honda Super Hawks and 350's- 450's.... Suzuki Titans... you name it. No reason it wouldn't work on any twin leading shoe.Jim, when I drag out my Aermacchi I am going to apply your method to it's front brake. Even with Ferodo linings it's never been as effective as I'd like.
y'uh know, I can't figure out the difference in the two methods...... either method changes the length of the tie rod, since it floats between the two arms the tie rod sets the static clearance AND acts to equalize the shoes.Not really... although it's best done with 2 people. With new shoes in.... disconnect one of the clevis pins holding the tie rod. One guy pushes the rear lever 'till the rear of the shoes contact the drum. The other guy pulls the brake lever (handle) so the front lever (shoes) make contact. Then just adjust the tie rod until the clevis pin drops back in. Tighten everything back up, adjust at the handlebars for a good feel and done.
As the twin yamahas progressed from R5 through the RD350 they became more tractable. The RD350 had a lot more torque down low than the r5 . The R5 would hit 6000 rpm and go berserk. The RD with the reed valves actually make usable power from 4000 up. The 400 went even more in that direction. It was a more practical bike that still made good power up top without the need to loft the front wheel so much.We're the RD400s detuned for emissions or noise standards?
My brother has a "grey market" TZ250. Very entertaining.As the twin yamahas progressed from R5 through the RD350 they became more tractable. The RD350 had a lot more torque down low than the r5 . The R5 would hit 6000 rpm and go berserk. The RD with the reed valves actually make usable power from 4000 up. The 400 went even more in that direction. It was a more practical bike that still made good power up top without the need to loft the front wheel so much.
I bought my 77 in Reno and rode it home to Texas. Was never below 90 in central Nevada. Averaged about 20 mpg on that trip. The 400 was my favorite until the RZ came along. Holy s00t that was a mad man machine.