spraymax 2000

Anyone that has used spraymax 2k, I was wondering if one can is enough to give sufficient build up to wet sand and buff out any orange peel?

Thanks

I have not used it but I have heard good things about Spraymax. What are you painting? I would guess a can would do a tank and maybe a set of sidecovers.

All depends on what you're painting. I've used it and it's awesome stuff. I would say one can is good for a few coats on a tank.

Sorry I forgot to mention, I am painting my gas tank, and using the spraymax as a top coat.

I used it as a top coat on a tank. I got tremendous orange peel, I think everyone does, but it was plenty thick enough to wet sand flat with 2000 grit and a flexible pad, and the end result was outstanding. I used an entire can for the tank. Waited about 24hrs after application before sanding. Allowed about 10 min between coats. Longer between coats might have reduced the orange peel some, don't know. This is regular 2k, not fast dry 2k, or 1k, which Spraymax also makes. I did it outside and would apply one coat while holding my breath and then dash upwind to breathe. It is dangerous stuff. And I had gloves and long sleeves.

Definitely wear a respirator and safety glasses. A disposable cartridge type is only about 20 bucks and should be available wherever you buy your spraymax. I used their sealer and high build primer under roth ratttle bomb with their clear over top. My clear laid out real nice. So nice I didn't even cut and buff.

Hey, xjwmx and 3Deuces. You fellows may have hit on an important do/don't application scenario for this SprayMax 2000 clear. Could y'all please expand on your application environment/technique, like ambient temp, humidity, application method/thickness, fogging distance, time 'tween coats, and anything else you believe is relevant?

3Deuces said:

I didn't even cut and buff.

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How long did you wait between coats? I could see my previous coat being pushed down and dimpled, almost like you were blowing on it through a straw. I'll bet you waited until it firmed up more before the next coat. My last coat was very shiny, just not level until cut and buff.

I think I waited a bout 15 or 20 minutes between coats or just long enough for it to flash off. Temp was mid to upper 70's and humidity wasn't terrible(early june southeast Michigan). I alternated the spray pattern between coats and was about 12 to 15" away. I was in my garage with the large door up just enough to clear to box fans and the man door cracked to get some air in. I probably put at least 6 coats on then tried to assemble the bike a couple days later. The clear oozed out from under the fasteners pretty good. Next time I'll wait at least a week letting it bake in the sun as much as possible.

I was using a closer distance than you, maybe about 9", trying to make sure it went on wet and heavy, and to try and avoid waste. Temp was a little above 60F.

xjwmx said:

I did it outside and would apply one coat while holding my breath and then dash upwind to breathe. It is dangerous stuff.

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and you call me a bone head

If you think a respirator is safer than not breathing, then yes, you're a bonehead.

If you follow someone around a website to try to annoy them, then you're a nut case.

I think you guys hit on the important points very well. Looks like the carrier is the main culprit to good flowout. The carrier is necessary to keep the paint dissolved in the can, to get it out of the can, and to atomize/disperse onto the surface. But, it's potency can interfere with the previous coat's skin flash-off. Fogging from a 12"-15" distance allows more carrier to evaporate before laydown, and the longer flash-off dry time between coats reduces trapped carrier, and the intrusion of new carrier on the previous coat.

Years ago, I mastered the ability to orangepeel glosses, and to gloss-out wrinkle paint. Application technique always eluded me. Then discovered the powerful effects of spraycan solvents (the carrier), and the unnerving disparities between different brands.

Thanx for ya'lls detailed reports. This SprayMax 2000 sounds like great stuff. I have a collection of about 16 different brands of hi-gloss clear that I had evaluated, each with their own shortcomings, and plan to add this SprayMax 2000 to the list...

TwoManyXS1Bs said:

I have a collection of about 16 different brands of hi-gloss clear that I had evaluated, each with their own shortcomings, and plan to add this SprayMax 2000 to the list...

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The main reason people have been using it is its fuel resistance. It's around $20 a can and hard to get except by mail. What are the best of the rest, and are any of them fuel resistant?

xjwmx said:

The main reason people have been using it is its fuel resistance. It's around $20 a can and hard to get except by mail. What are the best of the rest, and are any of them fuel resistant?

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Sorry it took so long to post this. Ran this evaluation of gloss clearcoats about 3-1/2 years ago, took awhile to gather the cans and my notes, plus it's COLD out there!

This was a very subjective evaluation, based on my criteria for clear brilliance on the green mini-metalflake. The general items I experienced and evaluated were:

- Application at temps of 85°-95°F, 50%-70% humidity, two 10"-12" fogging coats, about 10 minutes apart.
- Fogging/spray quality, some cans have good fine mist nozzels, others have industrial gloppers.
- Gloss-out and orange peel. Some try to orange peel, but gloss-out anyway.
- Gloss quality, from glass-smooth mirror to almost satin.
- Milkyness, some are very clear, some have a pseudo milky translucience.
- Color brilliance, some actually enhance the color, some dull and subdue it.
- Brilliance and flake retention at various angles. Some cloud the mini-flake effect when viewed at an angle.
- Evaluations done in the sun and in the shade.
- Resistance to abuse, mild scratch and 'ding' tests.
- Purported resistance to the elements, including Ultra-Violet sunlight.

Did NOT test for fuel resistance. I come from the old-school acrylic lacquer days, when we meticulously avoided fuel spillage. Didn't expect any of these to demonstrate any better resistance anyway.

Pic #1 - Far left can is the green mini-flake I used on the bike. Next to it is the champion of the test, Helmsman Sparvar. From left to right are the runner-ups, the best clears.

Pic #2 - From left to right, are the better to good clears.

Pic #3 - From left to right are the fair to poor clear paints, not recommended.

The Sparvar worked very well, glossed-out well with a tight skinning. However, as warned on the label, some 'amber' tinting is indeed appearing, so be advised. Wish I would've known about the SprayMax 2000, and added it to the tests...

My side covers are Duplicolor clear over Duplicolor metalflake. I see a Dup coming in at #2. Optically I think it is better than the Spraymax2k on the tank. It is more transparent, and there is the angle effect you mentioned. But on the other hand I built the metallic on the tank up level using the Dup clear and then finished it off with 2k, so it is thicker overall. Don't know how that would affect a comparison. The difference isn't bothersome but it's there.

It's all pretty amazing really, this first experience with painting. Fun the way at a certain point it gets worse before it gets better but you trust the process, and your ability to come up with a process, considering the varying quality of the info out there, and it ends up good in the end. The #1 Poly varnish, I think I remember a friend of mine using that on wood golf clubs he restored.

Sounds like you've got the best possible rattlecan paint job available, good 'ol dup's armor-plated with SprayMax 2k.

That Sparvar works great on riflestocks too.

Now you know why I built that paint can shaker...

TwoManyXS1Bs said:

That Sparvar works great on riflestocks too.

Now you know why I built that paint can shaker...

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To normalize the shaking for the test I guess

I bought a shotgun one time, one of the old models which will slam fire, which I thought was cool at the time. It had some coating on the stock you wouldn't believe. Very thick and on the heel (comb?) underneath all that finish was a glued on quarter! And not even a silver quarter....

Out of curiosity I held it over a stove burner and the finish started to lift in big white bubbles. It all came off very easily that way. I stained it and rubbed in some Formby's and it looked pretty good.