Engine Stud Threading

davem222

davem222
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Ok, perhaps I'm being paranoid here, but I'm about to remove the large engine studs that the head nuts torque down on. Before I screw a bunch of nuts on the threads and unscrew them from the crankcase, I was wondering if they do any sort of weird reverse threading or anything into the case. Maybe I'm nuts, like I said, but I do NOT want to break one of these off in the case. So if anyone has a sec, and knows their threading, just reassure me that they have normal threading so I can do this without pooping myself. Thanks :)

Dave
 
Dave, they have normal threading, but may be REALLY tight getting them out. Use 3 or 4 locknuts if you can. A good penetrant soak overnight may help. Why you pulling them?
 
Dave, they have normal threading, but may be REALLY tight getting them out. Use 3 or 4 locknuts if you can. A good penetrant soak overnight may help. Why you pulling them?
That's what im thinking too. why would you want them out?
 
Heat the engine case around each one before trying to remove. This helps to release any locktite that might have been used and the expanded aluminum lets go of the threads easier without galling.

Big question, why would you want to remove them?
 
+1 on use heat, double nuts won't be enough. I removed the studs from a "mock up" set of cases and without heat, even a big ass 1/2" drive stud extractor with a 15" breaker bar wasn't enough to get them all out.

+3 on why wake a sleeping dog?
 
I was going to pull them since I need to open up the crank cases and I know for that you have to turn the thing upside down. I'd rather not pull them if possible, but then it seems like it'd be nearly impossible to set it down upside down on a table. What do you guys think?
 
you can first take the head and cylinders off. then it's not really a problem turning the engine over. if you use a milk crate you can lay the engine upside down without laying on the studs.
 
Milk Crate!?!?!?! BRILLIANT! Why didn't I think of that?! Seriously lol, that's awesome. Thanks :) I imagine that the studs through the holes of the plastic crate will keep the thing from sliding off onto the floor as well. A bit of extra stability is always great :) Thanks for saving me some time and aggravation.

Dave
 
My engine stand.
 

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Hey if getting excited about working on these bikes is crazy, then get that rubber room ready for me :). Great pics! Thanks for the advice guys :)

-Crazy Dave ;)
 
Hey guys, new to posting not to the forum. About these engine studs. I'm pretty sure it's an engine stud. Anyway, I'm dealing with a leaky oil stud/bolt just past the sump pump cover. its the lone bolt on the left before the starter. Been looking in my clymer manual, reading up and I think it's a stud because I took off the nut to apply silicon and it didn't come out like a bolt. I'm just wondering what's the best way to fix my leak. More silicon? and if it is silicon should i apply it from the inside or the outside? Or replace the stud? I'm just not sure what the deal with this stud/bolt is. I'd rather seek guidance before I make a mess. Guys, please forgive me if I interrupted. Not sure how to work this. Thanks!
 
Brian, thanks for the response. I got turned around, upside down. I meant stud #5 not #13. It's on the gears side as if you were riding. Sorry. Should've clarified. My stud doesn't have an acorn or a copper washer but according to the thumb it doesn't use them. Researching this problem though I've found pics of the case with the acorn and washer set up. Think I'll try it. Thanks again.
 
What about stud installation? Can find info on installing the studs, do I use red loctite and how much do I torque them down? I know the nuts take 32-35, but what do the stud take?
Thanks
 
Setroc,

then the oil leak is more likely the clutch pushrod seal above it.

Rarely would a leak start at that bolt.

Wash the area down, go for a ride and take a second look.
 
c-los sd,

I would go about 20 ft lbs.

The stud has lots of threads and goes deep into the case. The loctite will lock it in and you're good to go.

The strength down there is in the number of threads and is probably good for about 40 ft lbs of torque on the cylinder nuts which have less threads.

So the 20 ft lbs will seat it real nice and the loctite will prevent it from loosing ever.
 
C-Los SD, do you have a repair manual? If you look in there you will find all the torque specs on all the case nuts and bolts. You will also find the specs for the Head bolts and nuts. The only changes from the stock specs reccomended is to increase the 8 big acorn nuts on the head from the stock 27 ft/lbs to 30-32 ft/lbs. 35 ft/lbs max.
All other torques are book specs.
Leo
 
Here is the supplement service manual with torque values. Not listed is the stud values. Yamaha didn't think anyone would remove them I'm guessing.

Haynes list the torque for the 10mm stud at;

13 ft lb for XS650 (uk)
11-14.5 ft lb for XS650 D (us)

No listing for any other newer models from 78 and up.

So my value of 20 ft lbs was close, but looks like 15 ft lbs is enough.

I would use the red loctite as you never remove these unless broken or your doing something out of the ordinary to your engine cases.

Hope the engineer types chime in here.

In layman's terms, as I'm no engineer just a home garage mechanic, the torque value of 27 or 30 ft lbs on the cylinder head nut is to put the right strain and stretch on the stud itself to maintain the proper pressure between the cases, cylinder and head. The stud with all it's threads into the case probably will stand at least 35-40 ft lbs of cylinder head nut torque as a safety margin. How tight the stud is into the case doesn't come into play so much. I'll bet 10 ft lbs on the stud with locktite would be sufficient. The 15-20 ft lbs of torque just insures it will not back out when you install and remove cylinder head nuts.

My 2 cents.

So 15 ft lbs, red locktite, and your good to go.
 

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