Clutch case cover threads stripping

hard_y_rd

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Arrggh. What do you do when they start stripping out before they get torqued to spec. 84 inch/lbs i believe. Not too much experience with heli-coils or threaded inserts. Its a shitting feeling when they strip. Help.
 
You could try a bit less torque. I go 80 in/lbs. These bikes are so old that a lot of the small fastener holes are just plain wearing out. The helicoil fix is about your only option (or some other thread repair). Tighten them in stages. Go 60, 70, then 80 in/lbs. Go slow and steady on the wrench too, not hard and fast.
 
seems to be a lot of these stripped thread broken bolts lately, heli-coil repair is about your best option on the sidecase bolts, simply not enough material in the case surface for a time-sert.... somethings need a torque wrench and some just need common sense
 
I'm thinking the PO's didn't know a torque wrench from a monkey wrench, and had no feel for tightning small threads. The threads were likely half stripped when you first got the bike.

Something to consider too, is that lots of lads don't understand the importance of cleaning the mating surfaces properly. Parts of old gasket material or sealants are left on, when a new gasket is installed (if they even use a new gasket). This results in oil leakage, and so they figure they need to tighten the crap out of the small bolts ..............voila........damaged threads.:banghead:
 
What size/length helicoil am i looking for here? Bolt size is M6. Not sure of the length. I'm guessing a little shorter than the threads on the bolt. 1/2 inch long? Never used these before. Knew of them, just stayed away from them.
 
they come in different lengths, for the side cases I'm thinking somewhere close to the half inch is what you would want, they can be cut down if needed, just depends how much room you have in the area (note cut the coil on the flat to avoid leaving a bad edge) yes side case bolts are M6x1
 
the coil of the insert is a spiral, if you look at it it's a flattened diamond shape cut it on the flat of the diamond, also you can angle the cut slightly so the edge leads into the thread
 

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On the topic of torque settings. Most torque values are for completely clean dry threads. Any type of lubricant on a thread calls for reduction of torque settings, this includes the oil from your skin etc. Any lubricant lessens the amount of torque required to get the same clamping pressue from the fastener. The "better" the lubricant the less torque required.

See article here:http://www.popularmechanics.com/car...ch-101-how-to-get-the-right-amount-of-force-2

Somewhere I have a more in depth article which when I find I will post but this should help as a guide.

Yamimoto
 
Good article yamimoto. Here's more lube/torque chatter:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27533

I should have checked to see if the topic was already somewhere. No surprise that it is. I just posted without looking first.:banghead: Thanks for the reminder TwoManyXS1Bs.

The book I was looking for is from Bowman/Barnes Distribution and is called "Fastener Facts". It is a very good source for technical information on this topic. I have a copy but at the moment it is packed away in a box and I'm not sure which box. If anyone does business with Bowman, Barnes Distribution and I think now Manhattan Supply aka MSC
( I think they took over Barnes here in Canada not sure about the U.S.A.) they will likely give you this book for free upon request, at least they used to. It's a handy thing to have around.
Yamimoto
 
Do I drill all the way into the stripped hole or just to the length of the new heli-coil? The new coil just threads in until it is flush so I assume yes?
 
use a small drill bit or wire to find the depth of the hole, wrap a piece or tape around the drill bit supplied with the kit to drill that deep, you need to rid of the old threads as your new heli-coil threads will most likely not line up with those old threads, insert heli-coil so it is just below flush
 
hard_y _rd a bottom tap will get you thread all the way to the bottom.
And how how will you get the tang off and out? A fine needle nose pair of hemostats may help. Barring that a pick to break it and a small steel wire with a strong magnet may work.
Also the taper/bevel/angle of the first starting thread will make or break the success on this. The reason I asked jayel to clarify. If you square it off it will be a pita gar un T'd.
 
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