cam chain tensioner

DIRTY DOG

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ok I have ran into a problem I have not came across befor. I'm working on an 77 or 78
eng. for a frend I went to adj the cam chain and the plunger rod is too short
even with it out ( the plunger and adjuster screw ) of the eng with the plinger bottomed out in the adjuster screw its too short by about1/16" do i have miss matched
parts? it's hard to adjust the cam chain it you don;t know where the plunger is at
manual said it's to be flush with the end of the adjuster screw its too short to too even make it too the end WTF:shrug::shrug:
 
THANKS SO MUCH THATS WHAT I NEEDED I looked a 2 others and they were the same I was sure someone fucked up gesss not thanks Twomanyxs1bs
 
There were no fewer than 5 tensioner assemblies used over the years so it is very possible someone mixed parts together that are not compatible .....

TensionerID.jpg


I'm going to assume that since you are working on a '77 or '78, you are dealing with a type D or E tensioner assembly. The adjuster screws on both were the same, measuring about 61mm total length and about 55mm on the threaded part. The pins on the plungers were equal, about 62mm long. The difference between the two plungers is in the head area. The later E version is about 8mm longer here. It was made longer to allow for the addition of the lock nut on the adjuster screw. The D plunger is about 91.5mm long overall, the E plunger about 99.5mm.
 
I have a type D I have 3 more of them all are the same Twomany gave me a link that helped thant guys for all the help.( I had not seen type d befor I also have 2 81's with type E on my running bikes)
 
I prefer the type E with the lock nut. You can convert your type D's by adding the lock nut and the type E plunger.
 
It could be the damper. They used two different styles. One was a copper washer, the other had two steel washers with a layer of rubber between them. If it was designed for the copper washer and you put in the compound washer it would make the plunger too short. I have worked with a 75 type C and the 81/82 type E tensioners. When properly assembled the plungers both protrude out of the adjuster screw. If swapped around the one is way is too short and the other way long.
I agree with 5twins on replacing what you have with the type E plunger and adjuster screw. I lock the lock nut.
On what you have with the engine idling use a strong light to see down into the adjuster. Snug the adjuster till you see the plunger stop moving, now loosen til it moves in/out about 1-2 mm's. You can also use a short pin of some sport that you can hold in the adjuster with a finger tip so you can see the movement easier.
Leo
 
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