Chrysler Regulator

I have heard of people using a chrysler Regulator What Gives Is it Better? Cheaper? Or where Can I get one. I think Mine is bad,and If I can get one for Less than MikesXS wants then I am Dialed People Help Me know what the Difference Is.

read this thread

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1643

and then go to

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=Charging&thread=3341&page=1#19636

just did this myself and very happy with it hardest part was the 3 nylon screws but pete was kind enough to send me some, depends on what year bike you have as what you will need to do to unground brush or not you may want to build the radio shack rectifier too I used a piece of 4" long 2" L angle alumimum on mine

There is a guy on ebay selling the nylon screws for like $5 for a set of four. When I was swapping the 750 engine back into my 75, I swapped out my 75 stator for an 82. The 82 already has the floating brushes. I had to rearrange the wires in my harness to accept the 82 stator. Now if my stator craps out I can just swap in another.
I have already done the Chrysler reg/ Radio Shack rec conversion. I love it. Any thing just of idle an my volt meter on the bars goes to 14.5 ans stays there as high as it will rev, never going any higher. My old mechanical regulator would climb very high at high rpms, almost 16 volts. Blew lights that way. Boiled the battery. Used to just live with it. Now with the mods, no blown bulbs and haven't needed to add water to the battery in couple years.

for a '79 and older bike you can avoid switching to nylon screws with this regulator -
advance auto - VR292
napa - MPEVR1010SB

this one is about $28

Either way it is lightyears ahead of the old mechanical regulators.

so .. make sure i got this right on 79 an later you can use your original screws , or just with these 2 types as mentioned above advance auto - VR292
napa - MPEVR1010SB

Ok so I guess That I am a idiot I got the Cheap reg thing but your telling me I have to go to radio shack and build a Rec how do I do this remember I am just a guy that paints for a living mech stuff I can handle Electric I can not.

Bobber 12 said:

Ok so I guess That I am a idiot I got the Cheap reg thing but your telling me I have to go to radio shack and build a Rec how do I do this remember I am just a guy that paints for a living mech stuff I can handle Electric I can not.

Click to expand...

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3473
here's what, where, when, and how ... like I said they use a 2x4 (8 sq. in) piece of aluminum as a heat sink I used a 2x2x4 L plate (16 sq.inch) the rectifers and heat sink potting compound can be gotten from Radio Shack

Here is a suggested replacement for the rectifier on 1970 to 1979 XS650's. Go to Radio Shack and buy 2 #276 - 1185 Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers for $3.29 ea.. Wire and mount them as follows:

1. Fabricate an aluminum plate approx 3 X 2 inches. Use .125 aluminum. This is the heat sink.
2. Mount the Rectifiers per the drawing, using heat sink compound between the bottom of the rectifiers and the plate.
3. Solder wires per the diagram.
4. Recommend that you eliminate the plug and connector as they are toast and you have to solder anyway.
5. Solder the wires from the Rectifiers per the diagram to the existing white wires going to the Alternator and plus / minus (Red / Black).
6. Use a heat sink when soldering the wires to the rectifiers.
7. Mount this assembly in the same place as the original, using either the center hole (as shown) or one of the mounting holes for one of the rectifiers.
8. Note: Do not ground the black wire on the mounting screws. The battery box is floating, it is not a ground.

The Radio Shack rectifier is rated at 25 amps. Two of the three white wires go to one rectifier and the other one goes to the other rectifier, so about 10 amps max is going through one rectifier at full load, with the remainder, 5 amps, going through the other.



The "N/C" terminal can be used as a spare in case one of the diodes shorts out in the future. You could "pre solder" a short wire to it so if you have to use it you can just cut and splice the affected white wire to it.....don't even need a soldering iron!

Life is simple: Ride. Enjoy.

Soldering isn't a hard thing to master. A search on the web and you will find tons of instructions.

flthead said:

so .. make sure i got this right on 79 an later you can use your original screws , or just with these 2 types as mentioned above advance auto - VR292
napa - MPEVR1010SB

Click to expand...

these regulators are for '79 and earlier and do not need nylon screws, they just cost $10 more.

80+ gets the other regulator (in the link above) and will already have ungrounded screws

pamcopete said:

Here is a suggested replacement for the rectifier on 1970 to 1979 XS650's. Go to Radio Shack and buy 2 #276 - 1185 Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers for $3.29 ea.. Wire and mount them as follows:

1. Fabricate an aluminum plate approx 3 X 2 inches. Use .125 aluminum. This is the heat sink.
2. Mount the Rectifiers per the drawing, using heat sink compound between the bottom of the rectifiers and the plate.
3. Solder wires per the diagram.
4. Recommend that you eliminate the plug and connector as they are toast and you have to solder anyway.
5. Solder the wires from the Rectifiers per the diagram to the existing white wires going to the Alternator and plus / minus (Red / Black).
6. Use a heat sink when soldering the wires to the rectifiers.
7. Mount this assembly in the same place as the original, using either the center hole (as shown) or one of the mounting holes for one of the rectifiers.
8. Note: Do not ground the black wire on the mounting screws. The battery box is floating, it is not a ground.

The Radio Shack rectifier is rated at 25 amps. Two of the three white wires go to one rectifier and the other one goes to the other rectifier, so about 10 amps max is going through one rectifier at full load, with the remainder, 5 amps, going through the other.

The "N/C" terminal can be used as a spare in case one of the diodes shorts out in the future. You could "pre solder" a short wire to it so if you have to use it you can just cut and splice the affected white wire to it.....don't even need a soldering iron!

Life is simple: Ride. Enjoy.

Click to expand...

why not use 3 rectifiers and are you guys putting this in "open air" or in the round oil cans I see alot using??

Fatman said:

why not use 3 rectifiers and are you guys putting this in "open air" or in the round oil cans I see alot using??

Click to expand...

you could use three but space comes into it, not much more than the 4" space under the battery box... open air for me, cooling and retains STOCK look and function

Well, you could also use just one. There are three phase bridge rectifiers available, they are just a little more expensive. Here is one from www.newark.com for $12.91



Newarks part number 07B3993

Also not as convenient to replace on a weekend, and no spare set of diodes.

I ment to use 3 to cut down on heat.I get the ones off fleabay, last ones was 10 for 8 bucks 3.50 shipping 1.25 X 1.25 X .5, just wish the tabs laid flat

Oregon motorcycle parts....53 dollars, but it's solid state and will last the life of the bike now. thats what i run

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/index.html

Has anyone had trouble any of thier products ??


John

Problems with my posts lately............. keep having to edit

john i have run 2 of them with zero problems. I always build my own rectifiers though.

Johnmw said:

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/index.html

Has anyone had trouble any of thier products ??


John

Problems with my posts lately............. keep having to edit

Click to expand...

These are just $3.00 bridge rectifiers, you can use this with your wiring, all they did was make a $6.00 "pigtail". You can take your wiring and add the ends and be good to go for under 10 bucks

The regulator and recifier can be done for under $25. The regulator has a warranty. Easy, simple, cheap. What could be better.