WOT feels like it comes out of gear,Help!

TRYGAR

TRYGAR

XS650 Enthusiast
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I have an 81 special. pretty stock except pod filters, stepped up the pilot jet to a 47.5.

I havnt adjusted my cam chain or valves yet, I know I know, shame on me.

All that to say, I think the problem I'm having isnt tuning. Basically when I really get on the throttle the bike will pull good until about 4k rpm (don't have a tach so I'm guessing) and then it almost feels like its popping out gear. The motor keeps reving but no power to the wheels.

Similar thing happens when I take off quick from a dead stop, After I fully release the clutch lever it still takes awhile for first gear to feel like its fully engaged.

Anyway, help me out if you have any ideas
 
Slipping clutch. The type of motor oil you are using can effect this.
You need an oil designed for wet clutchs.
If that doesn't work you may need new springs.
With the first gear slipping my moneys on the oil.
Springs for the high rpm slip.
 
If an oil change (20w-50) doesn't do the trick then study up on clutch adjustment.
If after oil change and clutch adjustment you are still having problems then it's time to go inside the clutch.

Also, check to see if you are leaving your gas turned on (manual petcock) and gas is filling the crankcase or if you still have the original vacuum petcock if it is flowing when the bike is turned off. Gas in the oil will thin it down, cause the clutch to slip and damage the rings and bearings.

I just replaced a customer's riding lawnmower engine because she left the switch on, pumped all the gas into the crankcase then refilled the tank and jumped the dead battery with her car. Must of been about 3 gallons of gas in the engine.
 
Ah Good Call, I didnt even think about the fuel thinning out my oil, thats gotta be the problem cause I'm running 20w 40, and I think I've left my petcock on prime recently.

Do you think I need to change my oil again?

I also just noticed the slowest oil leak (like 1 drip a night) coming from my left side case near my gear shifter, i'm thinking my clutch gasket since those are notorious.
 
Definitely do an oil change with some 20W50 and clutch adjustment. I went through the same wows but I had severe problems from cracked worm gear threads to crappy springs.
 
More important than the weight(10-40, 20-40, 20-50) is the type.
You need an oil designed for wet clutchs.
If you have gas or the CHANCE that gas is in the crankcase, change it before you run it.
The two most frequent leaks on the left side are the push rod seal and the drive sprocket. If the push rod seal consider replacing the bushing along with the seal.
The drive sprocket just needs a maintenance tightening back to torque spec.
Even with the lock tabs it loosens.
 
Any 20-50 designed for motorcycles or diesel engines should work fine. Automotive oils don't have the correct additives for wet clutches and older motorcycle engines. I've always been fond of Rotella T diesel oil but recently found RevTech to be a very good oil.
 
Just curious...not looking to start an argument or anything. Just looking for a list of oils that people have had luck with.
-I'm running Yamalube now in both my raider and xs650.
 
TRYGAR said:
I also just noticed the slowest oil leak (like 1 drip a night) coming from my left side case near my gear shifter, i'm thinking my clutch gasket since those are notorious.
Click to expand...


Clutch basket is on the RH side. A leak from the LH side at the shifter is most likely the shift shaft seal (say that three times fast!). Sometimes, the output shaft seal will leak as well. Both can be changed on the bike.

As to you original problem: My guess is a worn and/or slipping clutch.
 
I've been running 20w-15, But I had my float bowl set wrong and was getting overflow of gas into my pod filters. Now that I think about, thats when the leak started near the gear shifter, and it smelled a bit like gas.

Still learning, I didnt realize that gas could get into my crankcase.

You guys are amazing, Thank you

Ill be changing out the oil soon, I'll keep ya posted on how it goes
 
The float needle and seat are metering system not an on/off switch.
Fix your petcock so it doesn't leak.
 
That lightweight oil is defiantly a problem. It's great for modern cars but not for antique motorcycles.

There has been many a long drawn out fight here as to what is the best oil but all the old hands will agree go with a 20w-50 diesel or 20w50 motorcycle grade no matter what brand you pick and keep some with you as it can sometimes be hard to find on the road.

Ditto, weekendrider above.
 
Well I did an oil change (20w-50) and fixed my float, but it's still doing the same thing it was before. Looks like I'll need a new clutch unless anyone else has any good ideas?
 
The clutch plates themselves are probably just fine. The springs that clamp the clutch closed is more often the problem.
Get a set from 650central. The ones from Mike's are not very good, loose the tension to quickly.
I found an NOS set of Kibble White 70lb springs. I get no slip now.
The stock springs were about 50 lbs new, after 30 years they may be down to 40 lbs. A new set of 60-70 lb springs will be a definite improvement.
If it still slips then new fiber plates.
If you do the new plates, look at your steel plates. You will see that it has a curved edge where they stamped them out. On the other edge you will see a sharp edge, even some burrs. Use a 150 or 100 grit sand paper to remove this sharp edge. This lets the steel plates slide in the basket with less binding.
Also sand the plates to remove any color from rust. This roughs up the surface a bit too, making them grip better.
Leo
 

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