Thanx for speedy input. Safety relay yellow-black resistance is 24+ ohm; relay does not seem bad. I did start with my battery fully charged off the bike; it showed 13.2 when I put it back in. Voltage at brown-wire brush terminal is battery minus 0.3 VDC with engine running or off. "Slap" test is just a kiss, not a smart slap. One year-old Racetech rotor ohms 5.0-5.4 at multiple points around the inner and outer rings, infinite from either ring to ground. Stator: all 3 pairs show 0.5-0.6 ohm white-to-white, taken across pins of unplugged connector and infinite resistance to ground for each white wire. VAC across all 3 pairs of whites at 1200-1300 rpm idle is 8.4-8.5 max with headlight on, 9.9-10 with headlight removed. Analog voltmeter installed on bike reads same as my new VOM when testing across battery terminals - I get 14+ VDC with headlight removed; 12-12.5 with headlight on at 2000-3000 rpm. No obvious shorts in any visible wiring. All connectors involved are clean and tight. Fuse holders are all clean and tight - I did the "Radio Shack" fix several years ago when I first got the bike to replace all the OEM copper terminals when one of them broke. No abnormal electrical load - I have stock incandescent twin-filament bulbs in both front and rear signals for running lights, but my taillight is a single-bulb Superbright LED in a Lucas-style re-pop unit. Headlight is stock OEM unit, I believe 55 watts hi beam/40 low beam- "light-on" voltage given above was taken with low beam on. Rect/reg is new. All this seems to indicate that the magnetic field produced by the rotor is weak but not absent, but I can't identify a clear culprit. What am I missing? Any other test I can do to clarify? Thanx again for any input/suggestions.